free panniers and a riding suit for list members

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

Basically he is saying drive it like a granny for the first 500 miles, but accelerate and decelerate frequently in gear, keep rpm under 4000 like the book says, but don't be afraid to use 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. A good thing is to go up a big hill, and go back down the hill in gear, using the engine as the brake. Definately do not overheat the motor. Production engines are built a little tight, and you don't want to scuff or sieze the motor. They will also typically run a little hot when new. Like anything, moderation is the key. Jeff A20 -----Original Message----- From: Bogdan Swider To: a14@...; dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thu, 18 May 2006 14:10:08 -0600 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] valve adjustment

On 5/18/06 1:21 PM, "a14@..." wrote: >> So Walt....you don't believe in the rev it up break in some advocate ? >> >> Bogdan >> > > I've tried to stay out of the break in procedure discussions because > once somebody is convinced they know the 'best way' you could beat the > living sh1t out of them with facts and they still wouldn't understand. Yeah, it's more fun to get into disputes on subjects you don't know much about. > > Therefore it is usually better to keep the engine speeds down until the parts > have had some time to become familiar with their mates to prevent galling. It > is also important to vary engine speeds and hard acceleration and deceleration > is encouraged early in the engine's life to seat the rings. Also too low an > idle speed or lugging is bad especially for the cams. > So.. Do I understand you correctly? In the first few miles one should accelerate and decelerate hard; after that, for 500 miles or so, one should take it easy but not lug the engine. Also I've always been confused by what is meant by varying engines speed. Does that mean change revs every 100 yards or every 1/4 mile or what ? Sorry to drag you into this but you have much expertise and I'm curious as to what you think. Bogdan > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Around.. 1,500 miles mine were tight, but in spec range still. Numbers somewhere in garage, but nothing drastic. Dooden A15 Green Ape Remember.. A Tappy Valve is a Happy Valve.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Ron Moorhouse wrote: > > I have 800 miles on new 650 and want to go on 400 mile road trip this Sat and Sun and will not have time to adj valves. > > I see the first time should be around 500 miles. > > Am I asking for trouble or ok to do valves after this ride?

[Carlos Rigdon]

At 1800 none om mine needed adjustment still in spec just starting to go to the tight side of the spec.

On 5/18/06, Dooden wrote: > Around.. 1,500 miles mine were tight, but in spec range still. > > Numbers somewhere in garage, but nothing drastic. > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > Remember.. A Tappy Valve is a Happy Valve. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Ron Moorhouse wrote: > > > > I have 800 miles on new 650 and want to go on 400 mile road trip > this Sat and Sun and will not have time to adj valves. > > > > I see the first time should be around 500 miles. > > > > Am I asking for trouble or ok to do valves after this ride? > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[The Mule]

Walt said:

> Usually if an engine was designed for longevity the clearances are tighter > and the choice of materials for the bearings, pistons, rings, cylinder > wall, > and cylinder wall finish are different than an engine designed for > competition. > > Therefore it is usually better to keep the engine speeds down until the > parts > have had some time to become familiar with their mates to prevent galling. > It > is also important to vary engine speeds and hard acceleration and > deceleration > is encouraged early in the engine's life to seat the rings. Also too low > an > idle speed or lugging is bad especially for the cams.

..............Let me guess: the KLR is of the "designed for longevity" type. In any case, I pretty much paralleled these guidelines (exhaustive details penned in an earlier post) on my second KLR after breaking in my first one like a wuss as per KHI. I gotta say the newer one has more spunk and snap seat of the pants power than the first did. Incidentally, I finally got around to doing a valve clearance check/adjust. Last one was around 10-15,000 miles, this one was done at 33,000 miles. Last time I left clearances at the outside of spec........008 intake and .010 exhaust. I found these at .007 and .008 intake, and .009 exhaust. Hmmmm. Hardly any change after around 20,000 miles. Go figure. If I recall correctly, the last adjustment required very little change, and it was the first since new. Go double figure. Steve The Mule A17

[a14@att.net]

> > Therefore it is usually better to keep the engine speeds down until the parts > > have had some time to become familiar with their mates to prevent galling. It > > is also important to vary engine speeds and hard acceleration and deceleration > > is encouraged early in the engine's life to seat the rings. Also too low an > > idle speed or lugging is bad especially for the cams. > > > So.. Do I understand you correctly? In the first few miles one should > accelerate and decelerate hard; after that, for 500 miles or so, one should > take it easy but not lug the engine. Also I've always been confused by what > is meant by varying engines speed. Does that mean change revs every 100 > yards or every 1/4 mile or what ? Sorry to drag you into this but you have > much expertise and I'm curious as to what you think. > > Bogdan > >

The first ten minutes of operation is the time most break in occurs. What I mean buy hard accel-decel is a good twist of the wrist and back off but not full throttle - use it don't abuse it. Keep engine speeds down - in the case of the KLR the factory recommended 4,000 RPM until 500 miles is good but brief times above 4,000 RPM shouldn't hurt. Varying engines speed is not maintaining a constant no load speed. In the real world in traffic it is not always possible. It is not necessary to do this 100% just as much as possible. My KLR did not feel fully broken in until I had over 5,000 miles on it. I never babied it but rarely go over 6,500 RPM except for the occasional overzealous first to second gear shift. Walt

[Blake Sobiloff]

On 5/25/06, a14@... wrote:

> Keep engine speeds down - in the case of the KLR the factory recommended > 4,000 RPM until 500 miles is good but brief times above 4,000 RPM shouldn't > hurt.

The other side of the coin with this low-RPM approach, however, is that it can lead to forming a ridge around the cylinder at TDC. A piston will actually top out at slightly different locations in the bore depending on RPM because the connecting rod (amongst other parts) will actually stretch a bit at higher RPMs. If your engine doesn't see higher RPMs during break-in the piston will never reach the topmost parts of the bore, leaving that portion of the bore relatively un-worn. This causes a ridge, or step, to eventually form. The end result is that your bike will burn a bit of oil and not produce the most power possible when running in the higher RPM ranges. This is, IMHO, why many KLRs will burn a little oil when running on the highway at higher speeds. (Of course, the large ring seal area because of the large bore diameter also plays a significant part in oil consumption.) -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[fasteddiecopeman]

Blake, Another side of the 'ridge' you mentioned: IF it has formed in an engine that's NEVER been really revved... when you (or the next owner) DO rev it, as the rod lengthens and the top ring contacts the ridge, which WILL happen just prior to TDC, somethings GONNA give - probably the ring-land in the piston, which'll make a quite expensive sound as it "grinds" to a halt. Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Blake Sobiloff" wrote: >... > The other side of the coin with this low-RPM approach, however, is > that it can lead to forming a ridge around the cylinder at TDC. A > piston will actually top out at slightly different locations in the > bore depending on RPM because the connecting rod (amongst other parts) > will actually stretch a bit at higher RPMs. If your engine doesn't see > higher RPMs during break-in the piston will never reach the topmost > parts of the bore, leaving that portion of the bore relatively > un-worn. This causes a ridge, or step, to eventually form. >.... > -- > Blake Sobiloff

[skypilot110]

Things need to go to make room. A pair of aluminum panniers is on Craigs list for $50 but are free to anybody on this list. They were on the Tardis originaly.  Also I have a riding suit listed for $100 that is free to someone on this list that it fits. You must come to get them because Im not going to package them up. Located in Canton CT. Call 860-965-7501 when you plan to head out in case they are gone. In two weeks the go in the trash/recycling if they are here and sooner if someone comes wfrom the Craigslist postings http://hartford.craigslist.org/mpo/6086856353.html http://hartford.craigslist.org/mpo/6086734017.html Chris, A.K.A. Skypilot

[david zawadzki]

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[david zawadzki]

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> On May 5, 2017, at 10:49 AM, David Zawadzki wrote: > > It's that time. Does anyone have a step by step procedure on how to do this? What solvent they use to clean etc? Any tips, Maybe from previous email? > > I really don't want to mess this up > > David Z > mobile: 646.267.1109 > poisonpartyband.com > >