Wilsons Sandbox

Put it up on the center stand or something that solidly supports both wheels off the ground.  You may want to strap it into place so it can't be tipped over. If you want to take another step I suppose you could fill the tubes with dry nitrogen to reduce the possibility of condensate forming inside the tubes. It seems the idea of filling the crank case is that of limiting the air space above the oil wherein condensate might form. If I were not completely draining the fuel from everything I would for sure put a healthy mix of fuel stabilizer in and run it until I was sure the mix was in everything.  Then top off the tank, again to prevent condensate formation. If you chose to leave the tank full you might consider using real gasoline instead of the alcohol blends.  There is a free program called Pure Gas that will tell you all the stations selling real gasoline. This also highlights another potential.  Depending on the environment of storage it might be possible for condensate to form inside an empty tank and create rust.  Just something to consider. The other suggestion would be to thoroughly spray and wipe every rubber, plastic, painted, upholstered, etc. surface with Aerospace 303 to limit dry rot and certainly if there is potential exposure to UV.  (Yes the entirety of the tires too) 303 is available on Amazon. One more item.  A complete cleaning and lubrication of the chain with something not likely to evaporate over time.  Everyone has their favorite product and I'm not about to start a lube or oil discussion here. Randy Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "eddiebmauri@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: 2/23/17 8:55 AM (GMT-07:00) To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Storage Question.............   I have a question about long term storage of a KLR.............. maybe as long as 2-3 years.  I am possible taking a job overseas for a few years and my stuff will go to storage............. So, I am thinking, 1.    First,  remove and drain the tank, then run (the motor) the till it dies and make sure all of the gas is used - bone dry. 2.  Fill the engine (via the oil filer) until the engine is fill of oil. Is this really necessary? 3.  Remove the battery. I know that sitting for a few years the tires will dry rot or no longer be round, OK by me, I'll put new tires, tubes, and battery in the future. Did I forget anything?  Any suggestions would be appreciated, and, Thanks.... 31N90W  

In 13 years at a Mom & Pop bike shop near a military base, I saw all kinds of stored bike issues during deployments along with some that just needed fresh everything before running perfectly. One Captain had asked his buddy to run his Honda Valkyrie every month while he was away. It got run maybe twice and then the friend gave up. I remember carrying a A2 letter envelope back from the Honda dealership in my jacket pocket. Inside it was over $400 in seals for the six carbs. One poor guy filled his fuel tank completely full ..of E10. The alcohol and gas separated and the alcohol ate up the petcock seals, allowing gas through into the intake where it killed the carb float seal. The fuel continued downward past a valve where it slowly washed off a piston on it s way to filling the crankcase. Gas/oil shot out of the oil filler hole when we took the cap off! LOL In addition to what you have, I d change the coolant & brake fluid, too. Before you run the carb dry, go get a quart of TruFuel s 4 stroke fuel in the silver can and pour that in the empty tank. Run the bike 4-5 minutes on that stuff before shutting the fuel off. That fuel has a shelf life of 2+ years and zero ethanol! I just started my Briggs powered mower for the 1st time in about 8 weeks. The old thing sits outside under a tarp and the TruFuel had it starting on the very 1st pull. As for the tank, you want to keep moisture & corrosion at bay. I d drain it completely before taking a good quart of oil and pouring it into the tank and sloshing it around good. Next, remove the petcock and cap then tape over the holes good along with plugging/capping the vent tubes. While you have the tank off, remove the spark plug and pour in an ounce or three of Marvel Mystery Oil and turn the engine over a time or two with a rag over the bare plug hole. Once you ve put the KLR away, make a checklist of stuff to do before trying to start it. It should get fresh oil, coolant and brake fluid all over again. If you can get the boots on the forks off the lowers, paint the inner fork tubes above the dust seals with your finger dabbed in ordinary ATF. Bounce the bike up and down a few times and wipe the tubes off. While you re changing all the other stuff, the oil will wake up the seals and hopefully prevent a leak. =) -eddie Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: eddiebmauri@... [DSN_KLR650] Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2017 10:55 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Storage Question............. I have a question about long term storage of a KLR.............. maybe as long as 2-3 years. I am possible taking a job overseas for a few years and my stuff will go to storage............. So, I am thinking, 1. First, remove and drain the tank, then run (the motor) the till it dies and make sure all of the gas is used - bone dry. 2. Fill the engine (via the oil filer) until the engine is fill of oil. Is this really necessary? 3. Remove the battery. I know that sitting for a few years the tires will dry rot or no longer be round, OK by me, I'll put new tires, tubes, and battery in the future. Did I forget anything? Any suggestions would be appreciated, and, Thanks.... 31N90W [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Eddie,You could leave it at Latitude: 44.4097069 Longitude: -103.5090786It will get exercised. cough. I have read all the post/replies up to this 'time' stamp.What a wealth of info available!I loved the suggestion of making a list of all the things you have to undo.Imagine plugging the vent lines and not unplugging them when you try to wake up, Sleeping Beauty. I agree with all the suggestions, but I think a dry tank = without fuel, would be better than a full one...because of one caveat. You state you may be gone, 2-3 years...and sometimes that becomes 5-6 years, etc.As an additional base line of research/data: I would also suggest that you go to a 'aviation' site and see how the do long term storage of aircraft.In those discussions, you will see they 'fog' the inside of the engine and the fuel tanks. What should not be underestimated:ANY water left in the tank will form a pin size hole, as per experience of buying a 11 year old KLR250 with 970 miles on it.The KLR650 has even a worse trap in the forward wings (than the KLR250) where water can congregate and cause rust, especially at the 'spot-welds'. I would think that draining the fuel, to the point there was no visible liquid in the tank-wings, and then using a (sic) hairdryer to eliminate any other moisture.Afterwards using the oil film or tank fogging; or, fill it full of the cheapest petroleum product you can buy to get any moisture away from the tank wings.. My child hood mentor (a WW1 tank mechanic) stored 5-gallon gas cans with good results by draining all the fuel, then hanging them with a loose cap, in the loft of the barn where it was 'hot' so as not to attract moisture. One thing that has not been mentioned is making your bike mouse proof. Maybe even rat proof!I first would NOT store the bike with the tank/seat on it if there is ANY chance of mice or rats getting into' those boogers love to have a 'cave' to hide in and gnaw on stuff. Many airplanes are stored over the winter with the tires surrounded by a giant can-like structure surrounding the tires, so that the mice cannot climb up on the tires and into the engine compartment or cabin, raining piss and destruction throughout the aircraft...or bike. This can-like structure is easy to construct:Think of the can-like structure as a piece of sheet metal formed into a tall can at a minimum of 12" tall...then a 1/4" hole drilled in the metal with a 1/4 - 20 bolt and wing nut to keep it formed like a can. it touches the ground, surround the tire, (don't forget to surround the centerstand as well), AS an added precaution, I would but wire mesh over the snorkel as well as any other mouse sized hole.Remember all your vent lines; dirt daubers love any opening that is ~3/16 of an inch or bigger One thing that has not been suggested. cough.\Sometimes it is 'smarter' to sell than store. IRT to the battery; give that away to a known poverty rider (Craigs list) or place it in the hands of a favorite dealer who can give to some poverty rider. m1. who is avoiding shoveling the snow outside my door.

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 8:55 AM, eddiebmauri@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: I have a question about long term storage of a KLR.............. maybe as long as 2-3 years. I am possible taking a job overseas for a few years and my stuff will go to storage............. So, I am thinking, 1. First, remove and drain the tank, then run (the motor) the till it dies and make sure all of the gas is used - bone dry. 2. Fill the engine (via the oil filer) until the engine is fill of oil. Is this really necessary? 3. Remove the battery. I know that sitting for a few years the tires will dry rot or no longer be round, OK by me, I'll put new tires, tubes, and battery in the future. Did I forget anything? Any suggestions would be appreciated, and, Thanks.... 31N90W

+1 on leaving it at Martin's house to be properly exercised.Randy Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "Martin Earl mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: 2/23/17 11:43 AM (GMT-07:00) To: DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, eddie mauri Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Storage Question.............   Hi Eddie,You could leave it at Latitude: 44.4097069 Longitude: -103.5090786It will get exercised. cough. I have read all the post/replies up to this 'time' stamp.What a wealth of info available!I loved the suggestion of making a list of all the things you have to undo.Imagine plugging the vent lines and not unplugging them when you try to wake up, Sleeping Beauty. I agree with all the suggestions, but I think a dry tank = without fuel,  would be better than a full one...because of one caveat.  You state  you may be gone, 2-3 years...and sometimes that becomes 5-6 years, etc.As an additional base line of research/data: I would also suggest that you go to a 'aviation' site and see how the do long term storage of aircraft.In those discussions, you will see they 'fog' the inside of the engine and the fuel tanks. What should not be underestimated:ANY water left in the tank will form a pin size hole, as per experience of buying a 11 year old KLR250 with 970 miles on it.The KLR650 has even a worse trap in the forward wings (than the KLR250) where water can congregate and cause rust, especially at the 'spot-welds'. I would think that draining the fuel, to the point there was no visible liquid in the tank-wings, and then using a (sic) hairdryer to eliminate any other moisture.Afterwards using the oil film or tank fogging; or, fill it full of the cheapest petroleum product you can buy to get any moisture away from the tank wings.. My child hood mentor (a WW1 tank mechanic) stored 5-gallon gas cans with good results by draining all the fuel, then hanging them with a loose cap, in the loft of the barn where it was 'hot' so as not to attract moisture. One thing that has not been mentioned is making your bike mouse proof.  Maybe even rat proof!I first would NOT store the bike with the tank/seat  on it if there is ANY chance of mice or rats getting into' those boogers love to have a 'cave' to hide in and gnaw on stuff. Many airplanes are stored over the winter with the tires surrounded by a giant can-like structure surrounding the tires, so that the mice cannot climb up on the tires and into the engine compartment or cabin, raining piss and destruction throughout the aircraft...or bike. This can-like structure is easy to construct:Think of the can-like structure as a piece of sheet metal formed into a tall can at a minimum of 12" tall...then a 1/4" hole drilled in the metal with a 1/4 - 20 bolt and wing nut to keep it formed like a can.  it touches the ground, surround the tire, (don't forget to surround the centerstand as well), AS an added precaution, I would but wire mesh over the snorkel as well as any other mouse sized hole.Remember all your vent lines; dirt daubers love any opening that is ~3/16 of an inch or bigger One thing that has not been suggested. cough.\Sometimes it is 'smarter' to sell than store. IRT to the battery; give that away to a known poverty rider (Craigs list) or place it in the hands of a favorite dealer who can give to some poverty rider. m1. who is avoiding shoveling the snow outside my door.

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 8:55 AM, eddiebmauri@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: I have a question about long term storage of a KLR.............. maybe as long as 2-3 years.  I am possible taking a job overseas for a few years and my stuff will go to storage............. So, I am thinking, 1.    First,  remove and drain the tank, then run (the motor) the till it dies and make sure all of the gas is used - bone dry. 2.  Fill the engine (via the oil filer) until the engine is fill of oil. Is this really necessary? 3.  Remove the battery. I know that sitting for a few years the tires will dry rot or no longer be round, OK by me, I'll put new tires, tubes, and battery in the future. Did I forget anything?  Any suggestions would be appreciated, and, Thanks.... 31N90W  

Posted by: Martin Earl Reply via web post mjearl4@...?subject=Re%3A%20%5BDSN_KLR650%5D%20KLR%20Storage%20Question%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com?subject=Re%3A%20%5BDSN_KLR650%5D%20KLR%20Storage%20Question%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (4) [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=https%3A%2F% ... B7ECJg--~E[/img] Have you tried the highest rated email app? With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) i

Tell him to stay away from the ruts in the road though.

 

GregM

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, February 23, 2017 1:00 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; Martin Earl; eddie mauri [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Storage Question.............

 

+1 on leaving it at Martin's house to be properly exercised.

Randy

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message -------- From: "Martin Earl mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: 2/23/17 11:43 AM (GMT-07:00) To: DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, eddie mauri Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Storage Question.............  

Hi Eddie,

You could leave it at

Latitude: 44.4097069 Longitude: -103.5090786

It will get exercised. cough.

 

I have read all the post/replies up to this 'time' stamp.

What a wealth of info available!

I loved the suggestion of making a list of all the things you have to undo.

Imagine plugging the vent lines and not unplugging them when you try to wake up, Sleeping Beauty.

 

I agree with all the suggestions, but I think a dry tank = without fuel,  would be better than a full one...because of one caveat. 

You state  you may be gone, 2-3 years...and sometimes that becomes 5-6 years, etc.

As an additional base line of research/data: 

I would also suggest that you go to a 'aviation' site and see how the do long term storage of aircraft.

In those discussions, you will see they 'fog' the inside of the engine and the fuel tanks.

 

What should not be underestimated:

ANY water left in the tank will form a pin size hole, as per experience of buying a 11 year old KLR250 with 970 miles on it.

The KLR650 has even a worse trap in the forward wings (than the KLR250) where water can congregate and cause rust, especially at the 'spot-welds'.

I would think that draining the fuel, to the point there was no visible liquid in the tank-wings, and then using a (sic) hairdryer to eliminate any other moisture.

Afterwards using the oil film or tank fogging; or, fill it full of the cheapest petroleum product you can buy to get any moisture away from the tank wings..

My child hood mentor (a WW1 tank mechanic) stored 5-gallon gas cans with good results by draining all the fuel, then hanging them with a loose cap, in the loft of the barn where it was 'hot' so as not to attract moisture.

 

One thing that has not been mentioned is making your bike mouse proof.  Maybe even rat proof!

I first would NOT store the bike with the tank/seat  on it if there is ANY chance of mice or rats getting into' those boogers love to have a 'cave' to hide in and gnaw on stuff.

 

Many airplanes are stored over the winter with the tires surrounded by a giant can-like structure surrounding the tires, so that the mice cannot climb up on the tires and into the engine compartment or cabin, raining piss and destruction throughout the aircraft...or bike.

This can-like structure is easy to construct:

Think of the can-like structure as a piece of sheet metal formed into a tall can at a minimum of 12" tall...then a 1/4" hole drilled in the metal with a 1/4 - 20 bolt and wing nut to keep it formed like a can.  it touches the ground, surround the tire, (don't forget to surround the centerstand as well),

 

AS an added precaution, I would but wire mesh over the snorkel as well as any other mouse sized hole.

Remember all your vent lines; dirt daubers love any opening that is ~3/16 of an inch or bigger

 

One thing that has not been suggested. cough.\

Sometimes it is 'smarter' to sell than store.

 

IRT to the battery; give that away to a known poverty rider (Craigs list) or place it in the hands of a favorite dealer who can give to some poverty rider.

 

m1. who is avoiding shoveling the snow outside my door.

 

 

 

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 8:55 AM, eddiebmauri@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I have a question about long term storage of a KLR.............. maybe as long as 2-3 years.  I am possible taking a job overseas for a few years and my stuff will go to storage............. So, I am thinking, 1.    First,  remove and drain the tank, then run (the motor) the till it dies and make sure all of the gas is used - bone dry. 2.  Fill the engine (via the oil filer) until the engine is fill of oil. Is this really necessary? 3.  Remove the battery. I know that sitting for a few years the tires will dry rot or no longer be round, OK by me, I'll put new tires, tubes, and battery in the future. Did I forget anything?  Any suggestions would be appreciated, and, Thanks.... 31N90W  

   

 

Posted by: Martin Earl

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DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com?subject=Re%3A%20%5BDSN_KLR650%5D%20KLR%20Storage%20Question%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E%2E

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My bikes (including the KLR) sometimes sit for a year or so in between being started and taken anywhere. I always make sure that there is no ethanol in the tanks - especially late in the season; sometimes use 100LL Avgas, which has a lot of anti-aging properties. I change the oil (Mobil 1) on each bike in December when it is very possible that the bike may sit for at least 4 months. I move the Battery Tender from one bike to another every couple of weeks. Two bikes have Li-Iron batteries and they'll hold a full charge for 6-12 months or more. ----------------------------- I've told this story before, not sure if here on the KLR list... In late 1986, I rolled my ten year old Suzuki GT-750 into my basement, figuring I would be riding it again the following spring. Full tank of gas, and I did nothing to prepare it for storage. Kids, work, etc, and I left it sit - for EIGHTEEN years. ...18 year old gasoline is really ugly. Smells bad, too. By then it is trying to revert back to crude oil. Major tank and carb cleaning. That, I fully expected. The front disk brake calipers had seized pistons. That had happened at about the 4th year of sitting and I was rolling the bike to a different position. Hit the front brake and they locked. Tires were in good shape, but flat. They held air after filling them. The battery was, of course, totally and fully dead. That's the only thing that I needed to buy to get the bike running again. Surprisingly enough, after taking care of the above, the bike started after about 5 seconds of cranking. The only unexpected surprise was that it ran for a couple of seconds, then it locked up as if a piston had seized (I had already taken the spark plugs out and sprayed some 2-stroke oil into the pistons and cranked it a couple of times with the kick starter). I pulled the plugs again and kicked it a few times, and about a pint of blue oil oozed out of the spark plug holes. Over the years, the oil tank for the 2-stroke injection had slowly leaked down into the crankcase. After clearing that out as best as I could without taking everything apart, it readily restarted, although it smoked like crazy and shot oil out of the exhaust for a couple of minutes. The bike is currently in my garage, (where mice are an annual problem), with an empty tank and carbs, and no battery, but I think it will start right up again when I get to it.... Mike 40 08'50.9"N 76 15'31.6"W From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2017 10:55 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Storage Question............. I have a question about long term storage of a KLR.............. maybe as long as 2-3 years. I am possible taking a job overseas for a few years and my stuff will go to storage............. So, I am thinking, 1. First, remove and drain the tank, then run (the motor) the till it dies and make sure all of the gas is used - bone dry. 2. Fill the engine (via the oil filer) until the engine is fill of oil. Is this really necessary? 3. Remove the battery. I know that sitting for a few years the tires will dry rot or no longer be round, OK by me, I'll put new tires, tubes, and battery in the future. Did I forget anything? Any suggestions would be appreciated, and, Thanks.... 31N90W --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

If it were me I would strongly consider selling it and buy a used one when you return. Or buy an Africa Twin which should by then be more available on the used market. I'm not dissing KLRs, as I currently have 3 (including a Tengai). 

On Feb 24, 2017, at 8:50 AM, Mike Frey mike21b@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  My bikes (including the KLR) sometimes sit for a year or so in between being started and taken anywhere. I always make sure that there is no ethanol in the tanks - especially late in the season; sometimes use 100LL Avgas, which has a lot of anti-aging properties. I change the oil (Mobil 1) on each bike in December when it is very possible that the bike may sit for at least 4 months. I move the Battery Tender from one bike to another every couple of weeks. Two bikes have Li-Iron batteries and they'll hold a full charge for 6-12 months or more. ----------------------------- I've told this story before, not sure if here on the KLR list... In late 1986, I rolled my ten year old Suzuki GT-750 into my basement, figuring I would be riding it again the following spring. Full tank of gas, and I did nothing to prepare it for storage. Kids, work, etc, and I left it sit - for EIGHTEEN years. ...18 year old gasoline is really ugly. Smells bad, too. By then it is trying to revert back to crude oil. Major tank and carb cleaning. That, I fully expected. The front disk brake calipers had seized pistons. That had happened at about the 4th year of sitting and I was rolling the bike to a different position. Hit the front brake and they locked. Tires were in good shape, but flat. They held air after filling them. The battery was, of course, totally and fully dead. That's the only thing that I needed to buy to get the bike running again. Surprisingly enough, after taking care of the above, the bike started after about 5 seconds of cranking. The only unexpected surprise was that it ran for a couple of seconds, then it locked up as if a piston had seized (I had already taken the spark plugs out and sprayed some 2-stroke oil into the pistons and cranked it a couple of times with the kick starter). I pulled the plugs again and kicked it a few times, and about a pint of blue oil oozed out of the spark plug holes. Over the years, the oil tank for the 2-stroke injection had slowly leaked down into the crankcase. After clearing that out as best as I could without taking everything apart, it readily restarted, although it smoked like crazy and shot oil out of the exhaust for a couple of minutes. The bike is currently in my garage, (where mice are an annual problem), with an empty tank and carbs, and no battery, but I think it will start right up again when I get to it.... Mike 40 08'50.9"N 76 15'31.6"W From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2017 10:55 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Storage Question............. I have a question about long term storage of a KLR.............. maybe as long as 2-3 years. I am possible taking a job overseas for a few years and my stuff will go to storage............. So, I am thinking, 1. First, remove and drain the tank, then run (the motor) the till it dies and make sure all of the gas is used - bone dry. 2. Fill the engine (via the oil filer) until the engine is fill of oil. Is this really necessary? 3. Remove the battery. I know that sitting for a few years the tires will dry rot or no longer be round, OK by me, I'll put new tires, tubes, and battery in the future. Did I forget anything? Any suggestions would be appreciated, and, Thanks.... 31N90W --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus