battery connections

[achesley43@ymail.com]

Never take it for granite that you had the battery connection and two other eyelets in line when connecting them to the battery post. I did a battery post clean up and a bit of dielectric grease last month on my old A14. Put all back together and voltages looked good with it showing 13.5 to 14.4 on the voltmeter on my old Garmin 276C. Last couple weeks I notice a drop to the 12's when running and never getting to the hi 13's where it always runs. Well, today, needed to do something as I've been down 3 days with a cold. So went out and put a Batt Tender on the Bandit and decided to look at the KLR battery problem. Seat off, side cover off. Loosen up negative bolt on the post to slide out the two other wires I have there and lo and behold. When I had them out of the way, I saw that the main ground was just touching the post from the outside. Hmmmmmm. Could not believe I did that. So , got it back where it belonged , started the bolt to the post, slide in the other two and tighten her down. Fired up the bike and Bingo, 14.3 volts just off idle. So, life on the A14 is back in harmony.   Andy in Jennings, smiling again.   '

[zoot .]

Changed some time ago from K&N to Uni foam air filter. Liked that the mileage went up but recently have been haunted by the powder dust appearance on the walls of the intake box on the carby side of the filter. Opinions. Thanks, Todd

[Norm Keller]

Hate to ask but, are you oiling the foam filter and with the recommended filter oil?

Any chance of a leak between the filter flange and the foam? Filter grease?

Are you certain that the correct plastic filter support frame is inside the foam?

I'd be phone Uni to consult. IME it is opposite, that the foam allows less dirt than K&N.

[Mark]

Norm What is, your Favorite Filter & Oil? & What Oils to AVOID!!!  As Usual THANKS Travel Safe! Travel Well! On Friday, November 11, 2016 5:36 AM, "Norm Keller normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  Hate to ask but, are you oiling the foam filter and with the recommended filter oil? Any chance of a leak between the filter flange and the foam? Filter grease? Are you certain that the correct plastic filter support frame is inside the foam? I'd be phone Uni to consult. 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[zoot .]

Filter is well seated and well oiled with filter specific oil.  Frame is well seated.  Crosses my mind to grease the footprint. t. On 11/11/2016 2:36 AM, Norm Keller normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

  Hate to ask but, are you oiling the foam filter and with the recommended filter oil?

Any chance of a leak between the filter flange and the foam? Filter grease?

Are you certain that the correct plastic filter support frame is inside the foam?

I'd be phone Uni to consult. IME it is opposite, that the foam allows less dirt than K&N.

[Fred Hink]

Both K&N and foam type filters need to be serviced to be able to do their jobs efficiently.  K&N filters have gotten a bad rap on the internet because of some that have not filtered like they were designed to do.  Gauze type (K&N) and foam type filters need to be serviced differently.  If you treat a gauze type filter like a foam type they will not work very well.  Foam type filters rely on the oil in the filter to trap dust and work very well at this as long as the filter has not used up all it s oil trapping dust.  Once the oil is not filtering dust guess where it ends up....  K&N filters use a different approach for it s filtering.  The gauze in these filters isn t so much for trapping dust as it is a media for holding the oil that traps dust.  Gauze filters normally have a larger pore size that can be filtered when they are new and freshly oiled.  They rely on the filtered dust s accumulation for it s filtering capacity.  Once this limit has been reached the engine just won t breathe letting you know it s time to clean your filter.  If you clean the gauze type filter every time you see a layer of dirt on the outside, you are setting up your dust on the inside of the air box problem.  K&N s should not be cleaned that often but let it tell you when it can t breathe any longer.  This is better for filtering, your time and wallet.  Foam type filters need to be cleaned more often.  Remember it is the oil in foam type filters that traps dust and the cleaner the oil the more filtering it will do up to a point.  You can over-oil either type of filter.  Oil can block air passage just like the accumulation of dust.  So service either type of filters according to the type of filter you have and they should equally filter dust.   The type of oil you use in a filter is also important.  Motor oil will work in an emergency but will also not work as well or as long as oil designed for filtering.  Gauze type and foam type filters use different oils since their needs are slightly different.   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">'zoot .' zootpatutie@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, November 10, 2016 8:14 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Filter dust     Changed some time ago from K&N to Uni foam air filter. Liked that the mileage went up but recently have been haunted by the powder dust appearance on the walls of the intake box on the carby side of the filter. Opinions. Thanks, Todd

[Norm Keller]

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Hey, I'm chatty and always work from the premise that I am talking to friends so if that's irritating and you can't accept that, guess we're not friends and so don't know what to say. As with anything I post, I am most eager and appreciative of any corrections, questioning, and even intuitions as to how it might be in error, incomplete or otherwise suspect. I don't value "winning an argument" as particularly useful but the recognition that I am/may be wrong and why are pure gold. So, given that this is opinion and based on a number of premises: My personal preference is the NoToil system. Others, including Uni and stock KLR are, IME, similar in effectiveness. I evaluate by use of a light cotton cloth to wipe the air box and screen (if present) during air filter service in order to gauge the visible deposits of dust/dirt. *It must be obvious that this does not reveal all materials getting past the filter element. It is easy to fool anyone by appealing to "common sense" because "common sense" is simply that which agrees with what we already think. The less we know about a subject, the simpler it appears. I prefer the NoToil because I found it to be simpler to service when traveling. Wash it out in the motel or washroom sink, leaving no mess at all, then let it dry over night and re-oil. Others which require solvents other than water are not so simple, IME. One very powerful lesson which I always consider as the primary issue is the compatibility filter oil and the filter foam. Those who have experience using the older type NoToil filter oil (red bottle) on OEM KLR foam filters will know of which I speak. The oil/solvent would dissolve the filter glue and the filter would fall apart. This was really nice as it would seldom be noticed before the next service or, in cases of which I am aware, when the engine begins burning oil or fails to start because of low compression.  One can buy a lot of air filters for that cost. I carry NoToil stuff and the recommended system for K&N (not a fan), as well as for Uni and Kawasaki foam in my garage. I try to avoid using anything but the oil recommended by the filter maker because I cannot evaluate the effects on the foam or whether a different oil than the one tested/recommended will be sufficiently effective. I think one of the dumbest I've ever felt was when questioning whether one of my air filters "really needed replacement" or whether it could be used for another service or three. Yeah, I know. Too dumb for words.....    An all too common report is of a dusted engine because someone has not oiled the filter, left the basket out of the foam, not installed correctly, or the filter had a hole. First air filter clean on a new 250 MX 4 stroke at a friend's shop recently. Engine was capital "D", Done. Easily a couple of grand. Didn't oil the filter....not the first time the owner has done that on a bike. That's about my take on air filters and service. If someone can correct me, I'll be grateful. Another point which came hard to me is to buy new filters every couple or three years and buy two. That way there's no rush to clean, dry and install. Pop out the dirty one, wipe check, grease the lip and in with the clean one. Clean, re-oil and zip lok baggie that one and ready for the next time. An old friend once corrected me when I said that I had a tendency to be cheap. He suggested that "stupid" might be the preferable term. Corrections not expected but eagerly and uncritically accepted.   ------ Original Message ------ From: "Mark" To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>; "Norm Keller" Sent: 2016-11-11 5:16:50 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Filter dust  

Norm What is, your Favorite Filter & Oil? & What Oils to AVOID!!!  As Usual THANKS Travel Safe! Travel Well! On Friday, November 11, 2016 5:36 AM, "Norm Keller normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:   Hate to ask but, are you oiling the foam filter and with the recommended filter oil? Any chance of a leak between the filter flange and the foam? Filter grease? Are you certain that the correct plastic filter support frame is inside the foam? I'd be phone Uni to consult. IME it is opposite, that the foam allows less dirt than K&N.