heated grips

[Norm Keller]

#ygrps-yiv-833102036 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-833102036cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-833102036 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-833102036cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-833102036 .ygrps-yiv-833102036plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-833102036 .ygrps-yiv-833102036plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;white-space:pre-wrap;} #ygrps-yiv-833102036 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-833102036 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-833102036 .ygrps-yiv-833102036plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-833102036 .ygrps-yiv-833102036plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} The Oxford grips have an electronic controller which turns off automatically when battery voltage drops below a certain level and when it doesn't detect "noise" on the power source which would indicate the alternator is operating. I install a relay and turn off that feature. I don't like the feature on some bikes like KLR because the grips have kept turning off for some customers. I use a standard Bosch type relay in the overflow tank area to power accessories. It's far simpler, IME to place the relay close to the loads rather than running a lot of wires back near the battery. Bosch type relays look like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PACK-12-VOLT-30-40-AMP-BOSCH-TYCO-TYPE-SPDT-AUTOMOTIVE-RELAY-HARNESS-SOCKETS-/130904677196?hash=item1e7a86db4c&vxp=mtr       ------ Original Message ------ From: "Ateam" To: "david zawadzki" ; "KLR Group" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>; "Norm Keller" Sent: 2015-08-17 7:02:25 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Heated Grips  

    [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, August 17, 2015 2:05 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ; normkel32@... [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Heated Grips   Off subject a bit but maybe someone will benefit from this.   I have installed the Oxford heated grips.  Plug an play.  A connection to ground and a connection to power.  They heat up enough that you can t hold them when installing.  4 positions, easy to operate and customer service was excellent.  I had the Moose grips for 3 days in Utah and they were a bear to install and cheap.   YMMV, but Oxford makes a great product. LINK:     http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-light-heated-grips?utm_source=product&kwd=&kpid=897810&gclid=CjwKEAjwjMauBRDH-bOCo56b13wSJABA2-HvCLynBOqXWyocPoSw8Ggal9PMRRI9i9ejl6lgJ2UUbxoCliDw_wcB   I have another question, what does one recommend for a relay block to wire grips, GPS and a cig outlet versus connecting to the battery.  It must be kind of small as there is little room around the battery top and seat area.  I have everything connected to the battery and it is just not a good setup.   Thank you - Ateam Sweet. Thanks for that.   On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 5:38 PM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u]   The remainder of the wiring is simple to do. The biggest problem in making heated grips is the lead wires from the bike to the grips due to the flexing. Generally, the throttle side is the main issue but since, I understand, you have the grips with the leads, the rest is simply wiring. If dealing with this, and given my preconceptions, I would install a relay to power the grips and other accessories into the overflow tank frame area. Fuse the relay off the battery cable on the starter relay (starter solenoid). One wire in some loom or hose will keep the wire safe up to the relay. One lead wire from the relay to power the grip heaters and other leads for other things, maybe later, such as GPS or cell charger. Controlling the grips is easy as pie using one of the pulse width modulators off Ebay, such as this one for LED lights. It will handle 8 amps so more than enough for the grips. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-12V-8A-LED-Light-Dimmer-Brightness-Adjustable-Bright-Controller-Single-Color-/251975400268?hash=item3aaae77b4c I remove the circuit board and potentiometer from the box, wrap the circuit board in plastic and tape to keep dry and add additional wire length to the potentiometer wires if needed to make for easier mounting. The grip heaters go to the two output screws and the positive and negative go to the relay and to a frame bolt, respectively. If more details are needed, just let me know. It's an easy problem to solve and the potentiometer gives nice control.

 -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 www.thelegendofzarko.com    

[Norm Keller]

#ygrps-yiv-390353129 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-390353129cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-390353129 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-390353129cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-390353129 .ygrps-yiv-390353129plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-390353129 .ygrps-yiv-390353129plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;white-space:pre-wrap;} #ygrps-yiv-390353129 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-390353129 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-390353129 .ygrps-yiv-390353129plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-390353129 .ygrps-yiv-390353129plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} I finally took time to confirm my hypothesis regarding the Yellow/Black wire today. This is the Yellow/Black wire on Gen1 which runs from the CDI Unit to the Starter Circuit Relay Black wire. This wire is present on 1990 and later Gen1  and may be reflected by the Yellow/Red wire to the Ignitor on Gen2, but have not confirmed that.   https://www.dropbox.com/s/t2o6nf1vqky3sy7/KLR650%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Canada%20US%20-Yellow%20Black%20wire.jpg?dl=0   The purpose of this wire is to retard the ignition timing by a few degrees (seems like about 3 degrees but will need to set up to measure exactly) when cranking. Retarding the timing slightly will reduce the chance of a "kick back" against the starter. If I were setting up a KLR with kick starter, I'd install a switch to apply battery voltage to the Yellow/Black wire during kick starting.   I'm also thinking that this provides another test point for cranking circuit diagnosis.