Wilsons Sandbox

#ygrps-yiv-1529417037 .ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-photo-title { TEXT-ALIGN:center;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-photo { BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;WIDTH:62px;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;HEIGHT:62px;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 P { PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;CLEAR:both;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 #ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-mkp { BORDER-BOTTOM:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:10px 0px;PADDING-LEFT:10px;PADDING-RIGHT:10px;FONT-FAMILY:Arial;BORDER-TOP:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-TOP:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 #ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-mkp HR { BORDER-BOTTOM:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-TOP:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 #ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1529417037hd { LINE-HEIGHT:122%;MARGIN:10px 0px;COLOR:#628c2a;FONT-SIZE:85%;FONT-WEIGHT:700;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 #ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1529417037ads { MARGIN-BOTTOM:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 #ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1529417037ad { PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 #ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1529417037ad P { MARGIN:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1529417037 #ygrps-yiv-1529417037ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1529417037ad A { COLOR:#0000ff;TEXT-DECORATION:none;} On 28 Feb 2015 03:42:08 -0800 "libertyeagle@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:   Wondering if any of you carry Binoculars while riding, what are the best and what are the problems you have had? Michael <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><>   Michael,   Problems are forgetting to bring them along or forgetting I have them with me.   When not in use they are always, without exception, in their case.   I'll suggest you buy the best you can afford.  If you can only afford $75 binoculars they will be better than no binoculars.  If you can afford $500 binoculars get them.  Good optics are a lifetime investment.   Poor quality optics or decent lenses in poor mounts will not provide good images and will often lead to headaches.  Use them for 5-10 minutes in the store before you buy.  See if they will let you take them outside for more realistic viewing.  Use them for viewing at a variety of distances.  Compare the absolutely best binocular they sell with others.  You might not be able to tell the difference between $500 and $2,500 but I bet you can easily tell the difference between $75 and $500 models.  Read about the optical coatings to help decide what will be best for you.   I like compact binoculars for most of my viewing as they serve multiple uses like viewing when riding, hunting, geocaching etc.  They fit in a coat pocket easily and don't weigh much. If I was going to have them on a large boat I would probably look for a huge honking model.   If you are going to do much viewing in poor light conditions the larger the objective lens (lens away from your eye) the more light that can be gathered and the brighter the image.   On binocular I've used is by TASCO and has a zoom feature.   It is a lower end binocular and kind of large.  It is ok for the very occasional look that isn't gonna be used for very long.   Also make sure they have independent focus adjustments.  Some will have a central focus and a right eye focus.  As your eyes change it can work better to have each side focus independently.   My brother-in-law has some very nice Nikon binoculars with a steady/stabilization mode.  I think it is electronic.  Makes a heck of a difference in the view when using them freehand.  I don't mind using a rest whether a door, window edge, handlebar, tree, knee etc.   Again, buy the absolutely best model you can afford.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . .     . . . . .       ____________________________________________________________ [b]Forget the iPhone 6[/b] Did Apple Just Show Us the Future? fool.com

Yes Michael, depending on where I am riding and for what reason.

 

Problems over the past 40 years would be related to:

         unclear glass,

         barrel misalignment causing eye strain,

         construction that doesn t hold up to any reasonable use especially on a bike,

         distortions in the glass,

         distortions at the edge of the field of view,

         too narrow of a field of view,

         powers above about 8X are very difficult to hold still for more than a few seconds,

         waterproof not being waterproof,

         lens coatings not transmitting enough light at dusk and dawn,

         scratched lenses because they were not inset protectively deep into the body (front/objective lens),

         lenses coming loose from their mounting position (both objective and ocular ends),

         diopter adjustments not holding position,

         too much loss of field of view with glasses or sunglasses on,

         lack of adjustable and/or replaceable rubber eyecups,

         cumbersome, ineffective, and/or unattached protective lens covers,

         ineffective and uncomfortable carry straps/systems

         lack of or poor customer service with the manufacturer

         lack of lifetime warranty

         failure on my part to buy the best in the beginning that would have negated all the above.

 

You used the term best so I will stay in that category. Binoculars are one of the few items where you get what you pay for, a $2500 pair really is better than an $1800 pair. This means each person must strike a balance between what they can afford, what they will do with them, and what they are willing to give up (exit pupil, field of view, aperture, eye relief,

 

If I have the room and plan to do a lot of glassing: Swarovski EL 8X32 WB with a chest harness of my own design - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/hunting/el-32-c20010102/el-8x32-green-p5006129

If the above item is beyond affordability this model is still outstanding and IMO better than all the American, Japanese, Chinese glass: Swarovski CL Companion 8X30 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-companion-c22010502/cl-companion-8x30-green-p5006148

 

If I am limited on room and only plan to use them for short looks at specific things: Swarovski CL 10x25 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-pocket-c22010501/cl-pocket-8x25-green-p5068623 If I were doing these again I would go with the 8X.

 

When shopping for binoculars it is best to avoid trying them inside the store. If the counter clerk is not willing to take 2-3 pair outside with you to compare, I suggest you find another store. The other item that assists comparison/selection as much as anything (and what I use in the field) is a collapsible hiking or walking stick. Extend it to full length (ideally between 65 and 70 depending on how tall one is), place it about 2.5 in front of you and tilt it back to rest the binoculars on top of it. This will provide sufficient stability to allow you to spend time looking for distortions at the edge of the field of view and ensuring the field is flat completely across the view. If possible it is helpful to make these comparisons near sunset to determine light transmission of the coatings. Also look toward the sunset to determine if you can still see details in things or if the dimly lit areas are overpowered by the setting sun. If you can get near or more than a 400 field of view and 5mm exit pupil it makes a big difference for use of more than a couple minutes at a time.

 

If you are interested in buying something made in the US, Leupold does some excellent work in this model (though I consider them a bit heavy and bulky for the bike): http://www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-8x42mm/

 

These are pretty good overview and selection guides:

http://www.nightskyinfo.com/binoculars/

http://www.cloudynights.com/page/articles/cat/articles/binoculars1405754339/testing-binocolars-in-the-store-r1570

 

Carry straps and systems are a discussion to themselves and I eventually made what I use.

 

Randy

SniperOne

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, February 28, 2015 4:42 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Nklr Binoculars

 

 

Wondering if any of you carry Binoculars while riding, what are the best and what are the problems you have had?    Michael

I absolutely agree that Swarovski binoculars are the best in class, without exception. From my experience anyway. Priced like diamonds though. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/28/2015 9:25 AM, 'SniperOne' sniperone308@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

Yes Michael, depending on where I am riding and for what reason.

Problems over the past 40 years would be related to:

unclear glass,

barrel misalignment causing eye strain,

construction that doesn t hold up to any reasonable use especially on a bike,

distortions in the glass,

distortions at the edge of the field of view,

too narrow of a field of view,

powers above about 8X are very difficult to hold still for more than a few seconds,

waterproof not being waterproof,

lens coatings not transmitting enough light at dusk and dawn,

scratched lenses because they were not inset protectively deep into the body (front/objective lens),

lenses coming loose from their mounting position (both objective and ocular ends),

diopter adjustments not holding position,

too much loss of field of view with glasses or sunglasses on,

lack of adjustable and/or replaceable rubber eyecups,

cumbersome, ineffective, and/or unattached protective lens covers,

ineffective and uncomfortable carry straps/systems

lack of or poor customer service with the manufacturer

lack of lifetime warranty

failure on my part to buy the best in the beginning that would have negated all the above.

You used the term best so I will stay in that category. Binoculars are one of the few items where you get what you pay for, a $2500 pair really is better than an $1800 pair. This means each person must strike a balance between what they can afford, what they will do with them, and what they are willing to give up (exit pupil, field of view, aperture, eye relief,

If I have the room and plan to do a lot of glassing: Swarovski EL 8X32 WB with a chest harness of my own design - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/hunting/el-32-c20010102/el-8x32-green-p5006129

If the above item is beyond affordability this model is still outstanding and IMO better than all the American, Japanese, Chinese glass: Swarovski CL Companion 8X30 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-companion-c22010502/cl-companion-8x30-green-p5006148

If I am limited on room and only plan to use them for short looks at specific things: Swarovski CL 10x25 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-pocket-c22010501/cl-pocket-8x25-green-p5068623 If I were doing these again I would go with the 8X.

When shopping for binoculars it is best to avoid trying them inside the store. If the counter clerk is not willing to take 2-3 pair outside with you to compare, I suggest you find another store. The other item that assists comparison/selection as much as anything (and what I use in the field) is a collapsible hiking or walking stick. Extend it to full length (ideally between 65 and 70 depending on how tall one is), place it about 2.5 in front of you and tilt it back to rest the binoculars on top of it. This will provide sufficient stability to allow you to spend time looking for distortions at the edge of the field of view and ensuring the field is flat completely across the view. If possible it is helpful to make these comparisons near sunset to determine light transmission of the coatings. Also look toward the sunset to determine if you can still see details in things or if the dimly lit areas are overpowered by the setting sun. If you can get near or more than a 400 field of view and 5mm exit pupil it makes a big difference for use of more than a couple minutes at a time.

If you are interested in buying something made in the US, Leupold does some excellent work in this model (though I consider them a bit heavy and bulky for the bike): http://www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-8x42mm/

These are pretty good overview and selection guides:

http://www.nightskyinfo.com/binoculars/

http://www.cloudynights.com/page/articles/cat/articles/binoculars1405754339/testing-binocolars-in-the-store-r1570

Carry straps and systems are a discussion to themselves and I eventually made what I use.

Randy

SniperOne

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, February 28, 2015 4:42 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Nklr Binoculars

Wondering if any of you carry Binoculars while riding, what are the best and what are the problems you have had? Michael

Any word on how Swarovski binocs hold up under a get-off in the woods? Don

On Sat, Feb 28, 2015 at 1:17 PM, RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] I absolutely agree that Swarovski binoculars are the best in class, without exception. From my experience anyway. Priced like diamonds though. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/28/2015 9:25 AM, 'SniperOne' sniperone308@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote: Yes Michael, depending on where I am riding and for what reason.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

Problems over the past 40 years would be related to:[u][/u][u][/u]

unclear glass, [u][/u][u][/u] barrel misalignment causing eye strain, [u][/u][u][/u] construction that doesn t hold up to any reasonable use especially on a bike, [u][/u][u][/u] distortions in the glass, [u][/u][u][/u] distortions at the edge of the field of view, [u][/u][u][/u] too narrow of a field of view, [u][/u][u][/u] powers above about 8X are very difficult to hold still for more than a few seconds,[u][/u][u][/u] waterproof not being waterproof,[u][/u][u][/u] lens coatings not transmitting enough light at dusk and dawn,[u][/u][u][/u] scratched lenses because they were not inset protectively deep into the body (front/objective lens),[u][/u][u][/u] lenses coming loose from their mounting position (both objective and ocular ends),[u][/u][u][/u] diopter adjustments not holding position,[u][/u][u][/u] too much loss of field of view with glasses or sunglasses on,[u][/u][u][/u] lack of adjustable and/or replaceable rubber eyecups,[u][/u][u][/u] cumbersome, ineffective, and/or unattached protective lens covers,[u][/u][u][/u] ineffective and uncomfortable carry straps/systems[u][/u][u][/u] lack of or poor customer service with the manufacturer[u][/u][u][/u] lack of lifetime warranty[u][/u][u][/u] failure on my part to buy the best in the beginning that would have negated all the above.[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u]

You used the term best so I will stay in that category. Binoculars are one of the few items where you get what you pay for, a $2500 pair really is better than an $1800 pair. This means each person must strike a balance between what they can afford, what they will do with them, and what they are willing to give up (exit pupil, field of view, aperture, eye relief, [u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

If I have the room and plan to do a lot of glassing: Swarovski EL 8X32 WB with a chest harness of my own design - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/hunting/el-32-c20010102/el-8x32-green-p5006129[u][/u][u][/u]

If the above item is beyond affordability this model is still outstanding and IMO better than all the American, Japanese, Chinese glass: Swarovski CL Companion 8X30 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-companion-c22010502/cl-companion-8x30-green-p5006148[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

If I am limited on room and only plan to use them for short looks at specific things: Swarovski CL 10x25 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-pocket-c22010501/cl-pocket-8x25-green-p5068623 If I were doing these again I would go with the 8X.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

When shopping for binoculars it is best to avoid trying them inside the store. If the counter clerk is not willing to take 2-3 pair outside with you to compare, I suggest you find another store. The other item that assists comparison/selection as much as anything (and what I use in the field) is a collapsible hiking or walking stick. Extend it to full length (ideally between 65 and 70 depending on how tall one is), place it about 2.5 in front of you and tilt it back to rest the binoculars on top of it. This will provide sufficient stability to allow you to spend time looking for distortions at the edge of the field of view and ensuring the field is flat completely across the view. If possible it is helpful to make these comparisons near sunset to determine light transmission of the coatings. Also look toward the sunset to determine if you can still see details in things or if the dimly lit areas are overpowered by the setting sun. If you can get near or more than a 400 field of view and 5mm exit pupil it makes a big difference for use of more than a couple minutes at a time.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

If you are interested in buying something made in the US, Leupold does some excellent work in this model (though I consider them a bit heavy and bulky for the bike): http://www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-8x42mm/[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

These are pretty good overview and selection guides:[u][/u][u][/u]

http://www.nightskyinfo.com/binoculars/[u][/u][u][/u]

http://www.cloudynights.com/page/articles/cat/articles/binoculars1405754339/testing-binocolars-in-the-store-r1570[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

Carry straps and systems are a discussion to themselves and I eventually made what I use.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

Randy[u][/u][u][/u]

SniperOne[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, February 28, 2015 4:42 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Nklr Binoculars[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[u][/u][u][/u]

Wondering if any of you carry Binoculars while riding, what are the best and what are the problems you have had? [u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] Michael[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u][u][/u]

Bike crash, no.   They have survived the rigors of panniers hard and soft, hiking slips trips and falls, falls from the truck bed, well covered with blood and feathers, rain/snow/mud/dust, washing with the hose sprayer, rinses in the river, etc.   I have not pinned them between the bike and ground in a crash.  They are either in a pannier or on my chest rig inside my jacket if I am scouting with a lot of stops to look. Swarovski has excellent warranty/repair service (lost a rubber eye cup), and they do offer a rebuild service too. Randy Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message --------From: "Don Dodge ddodge42@... [DSN_KLR650]" Date:02/28/2015 3:35 PM (GMT-07:00) To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com,RobertWichert Cc: SniperOne Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Nklr Binoculars   Any word on how Swarovski binocs hold up under a get-off in the woods?  Don

On Sat, Feb 28, 2015 at 1:17 PM, RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u]   I absolutely agree that Swarovski binoculars are the best in class, without exception.  From my experience anyway. Priced like diamonds though. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/28/2015 9:25 AM, 'SniperOne' sniperone308@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:   Yes Michael, depending on where I am riding and for what reason.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

Problems over the past 40 years would be related to:[u][/u][u][/u]

         unclear glass, [u][/u][u][/u]          barrel misalignment causing eye strain, [u][/u][u][/u]          construction that doesn t hold up to any reasonable use especially on a bike, [u][/u][u][/u]          distortions in the glass, [u][/u][u][/u]          distortions at the edge of the field of view, [u][/u][u][/u]          too narrow of a field of view, [u][/u][u][/u]          powers above about 8X are very difficult to hold still for more than a few seconds,[u][/u][u][/u]          waterproof not being waterproof,[u][/u][u][/u]          lens coatings not transmitting enough light at dusk and dawn,[u][/u][u][/u]          scratched lenses because they were not inset protectively deep into the body (front/objective lens),[u][/u][u][/u]          lenses coming loose from their mounting position (both objective and ocular ends),[u][/u][u][/u]          diopter adjustments not holding position,[u][/u][u][/u]          too much loss of field of view with glasses or sunglasses on,[u][/u][u][/u]          lack of adjustable and/or replaceable rubber eyecups,[u][/u][u][/u]          cumbersome, ineffective, and/or unattached protective lens covers,[u][/u][u][/u]          ineffective and uncomfortable carry straps/systems[u][/u][u][/u]          lack of or poor customer service with the manufacturer[u][/u][u][/u]          lack of lifetime warranty[u][/u][u][/u]          failure on my part to buy the best in the beginning that would have negated all the above.[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u]

You used the term best so I will stay in that category.  Binoculars are one of the few items where you get what you pay for, a $2500 pair really is better than an $1800 pair.  This means each person must strike a balance between what they can afford, what they will do with them, and what they are willing to give up (exit pupil, field of view, aperture, eye relief, [u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

If I have the room and plan to do a lot of glassing:  Swarovski EL 8X32 WB with a chest harness of my own design - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/hunting/el-32-c20010102/el-8x32-green-p5006129[u][/u][u][/u]

If the above item is beyond affordability this model is still outstanding and IMO better than all the American, Japanese, Chinese glass:  Swarovski CL Companion 8X30 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-companion-c22010502/cl-companion-8x30-green-p5006148[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

If I am limited on room and only plan to use them for short looks at specific things:  Swarovski CL 10x25 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-pocket-c22010501/cl-pocket-8x25-green-p5068623  If I were doing these again I would go with the 8X.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

When shopping for binoculars it is best to avoid trying them inside the store.  If the counter clerk is not willing to take 2-3 pair outside with you to compare, I suggest you find another store.  The other item that assists comparison/selection as much as anything (and what I use in the field) is a collapsible hiking or walking stick.  Extend it to full length (ideally between 65 and 70 depending on how tall one is), place it about 2.5 in front of you and tilt it back to rest the binoculars on top of it.  This will provide sufficient stability to allow you to spend time looking for distortions at the edge of the field of view and ensuring the field is flat completely across the view.  If possible it is helpful to make these comparisons near sunset to determine light transmission of the coatings.  Also look toward the sunset to determine if you can still see details in things or if the dimly lit areas are overpowered by the setting sun.  If you can get near or more than a 400 field of view and 5mm exit pupil it makes a big difference for use of more than a couple minutes at a time.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

If you are interested in buying something made in the US, Leupold does some excellent work in this model (though I consider them a bit heavy and bulky for the bike):  http://www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-8x42mm/[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

These are pretty good overview and selection guides:[u][/u][u][/u]

http://www.nightskyinfo.com/binoculars/[u][/u][u][/u]

http://www.cloudynights.com/page/articles/cat/articles/binoculars1405754339/testing-binocolars-in-the-store-r1570[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

Carry straps and systems are a discussion to themselves and I eventually made what I use.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

Randy[u][/u][u][/u]

SniperOne[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, February 28, 2015 4:42 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Nklr Binoculars[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

  [u][/u][u][/u]

Wondering if any of you carry Binoculars while riding, what are the best and what are the problems you have had? [u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] Michael[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u][u][/u]

Old saying, If you spend to much buying the best tool, You regret it, 1 time, The time you Buy it.But if you buy the cheapest crap, you regret it every time, you use "It", Plus again when you need to replace it. On Saturday, February 28, 2015 5:53 PM, "SniperOne sniperone308@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  Bike crash, no.   They have survived the rigors of panniers hard and soft, hiking slips trips and falls, falls from the truck bed, well covered with blood and feathers, rain/snow/mud/dust, washing with the hose sprayer, rinses in the river, etc.   I have not pinned them between the bike and ground in a crash.  They are either in a pannier or on my chest rig inside my jacket if I am scouting with a lot of stops to look. Swarovski has excellent warranty/repair service (lost a rubber eye cup), and they do offer a rebuild service too. Randy Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message --------From: "Don Dodge ddodge42@... [DSN_KLR650]" Date:02/28/2015 3:35 PM (GMT-07:00) To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com,RobertWichert Cc: SniperOne Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Nklr Binoculars   Any word on how Swarovski binocs hold up under a get-off in the woods?  Don On Sat, Feb 28, 2015 at 1:17 PM, RobertWichert robert@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u]   I absolutely agree that Swarovski binoculars are the best in class, without exception.  From my experience anyway. Priced like diamonds though. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 2/28/2015 9:25 AM, 'SniperOne' sniperone308@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:   Yes Michael, depending on where I am riding and for what reason.[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] Problems over the past 40 years would be related to:[u][/u][u][/u]          unclear glass, [u][/u][u][/u]          barrel misalignment causing eye strain, [u][/u][u][/u]          construction that doesn t hold up to any reasonable use especially on a bike, [u][/u][u][/u]          distortions in the glass, [u][/u][u][/u]          distortions at the edge of the field of view, [u][/u][u][/u]          too narrow of a field of view, [u][/u][u][/u]          powers above about 8X are very difficult to hold still for more than a few seconds,[u][/u][u][/u]          waterproof not being waterproof,[u][/u][u][/u]          lens coatings not transmitting enough light at dusk and dawn,[u][/u][u][/u]          scratched lenses because they were not inset protectively deep into the body (front/objective lens),[u][/u][u][/u]          lenses coming loose from their mounting position (both objective and ocular ends),[u][/u][u][/u]          diopter adjustments not holding position,[u][/u][u][/u]          too much loss of field of view with glasses or sunglasses on,[u][/u][u][/u]          lack of adjustable and/or replaceable rubber eyecups,[u][/u][u][/u]          cumbersome, ineffective, and/or unattached protective lens covers,[u][/u][u][/u]          ineffective and uncomfortable carry straps/systems[u][/u][u][/u]          lack of or poor customer service with the manufacturer[u][/u][u][/u]          lack of lifetime warranty[u][/u][u][/u]          failure on my part to buy the best in the beginning that would have negated all the above.[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] You used the term best so I will stay in that category.  Binoculars are one of the few items where you get what you pay for, a $2500 pair really is better than an $1800 pair.  This means each person must strike a balance between what they can afford, what they will do with them, and what they are willing to give up (exit pupil, field of view, aperture, eye relief, [u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] If I have the room and plan to do a lot of glassing:  Swarovski EL 8X32 WB with a chest harness of my own design - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/hunting/el-32-c20010102/el-8x32-green-p5006129[u][/u][u][/u] If the above item is beyond affordability this model is still outstanding and IMO better than all the American, Japanese, Chinese glass:  Swarovski CL Companion 8X30 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-companion-c22010502/cl-companion-8x30-green-p5006148[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] If I am limited on room and only plan to use them for short looks at specific things:  Swarovski CL 10x25 B - http://www.swarovskioptik.com/travel/cl-pocket-c22010501/cl-pocket-8x25-green-p5068623  If I were doing these again I would go with the 8X.[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] When shopping for binoculars it is best to avoid trying them inside the store.  If the counter clerk is not willing to take 2-3 pair outside with you to compare, I suggest you find another store.  The other item that assists comparison/selection as much as anything (and what I use in the field) is a collapsible hiking or walking stick.  Extend it to full length (ideally between 65 and 70 depending on how tall one is), place it about 2.5 in front of you and tilt it back to rest the binoculars on top of it.  This will provide sufficient stability to allow you to spend time looking for distortions at the edge of the field of view and ensuring the field is flat completely across the view.  If possible it is helpful to make these comparisons near sunset to determine light transmission of the coatings.  Also look toward the sunset to determine if you can still see details in things or if the dimly lit areas are overpowered by the setting sun.  If you can get near or more than a 400 field of view and 5mm exit pupil it makes a big difference for use of more than a couple minutes at a time.[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] If you are interested in buying something made in the US, Leupold does some excellent work in this model (though I consider them a bit heavy and bulky for the bike):  http://www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-binoculars/bx-4-mckinley-hd-8x42mm/[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] These are pretty good overview and selection guides:[u][/u][u][/u] http://www.nightskyinfo.com/binoculars/[u][/u][u][/u] http://www.cloudynights.com/page/articles/cat/articles/binoculars1405754339/testing-binocolars-in-the-store-r1570[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] Carry straps and systems are a discussion to themselves and I eventually made what I use.[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] Randy[u][/u][u][/u] SniperOne[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, February 28, 2015 4:42 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Nklr Binoculars[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u]   [u][/u][u][/u] Wondering if any of you carry Binoculars while riding, what are the best and what are the problems you have had? [u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u] [u][/u] Michael[u][/u][u][/u] [u][/u][u][/u]

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#ygrps-yiv-1295956406 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1295956406cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1295956406cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 .ygrps-yiv-1295956406plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 .ygrps-yiv-1295956406plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1295956406 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 .ygrps-yiv-1295956406plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 .ygrps-yiv-1295956406plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 BLOCKQUOTE.ygrps-yiv-1295956406cite { PADDING-LEFT:10px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;BORDER-LEFT:#cccccc 1px solid;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 BLOCKQUOTE.ygrps-yiv-1295956406cite2 { PADDING-TOP:0px;PADDING-LEFT:10px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;BORDER-LEFT:#cccccc 1px solid;MARGIN-TOP:3px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 .ygrps-yiv-1295956406plain PRE { FONT-SIZE:100%;FONT-FAMILY:monospace;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;FONT-STYLE:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 .ygrps-yiv-1295956406plain TT { FONT-SIZE:100%;FONT-FAMILY:monospace;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;FONT-STYLE:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 A IMG { BORDER-TOP:0px;BORDER-RIGHT:0px;BORDER-BOTTOM:0px;BORDER-LEFT:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 #ygrps-yiv-1295956406xd6ac65fd04cc4eee8d75d19624f9b64f { FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 .ygrps-yiv-1295956406plain PRE { FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 .ygrps-yiv-1295956406plain TT { FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} #ygrps-yiv-1295956406 { FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;} I like having a cooling fan indicator light more and more as the indicator came on twice today which always causes me to check the temperature gauge. The second time was in the garage so pulled off my glove and couldn't feel or hear air flow, although the engine wasn't overheating.   Used my pocket light and fan not turning. A finger check with key off showed that the fan bearing was seized up. Nice!   *Note that my fan is wired so that it only operates with the key on. Although some choose to have the fan hot at all times, I prefer to have the control offered by turning off the fan with the key.   I pulled the fan and worked oil into the bushings/bearings by oiling around the shaft, and drilling a hole into the rear cover pocket, then pulling the shaft in and out while keeping oil around the shaft/in the hole. I also used shop air and a piece of hose to form a pocket to push oil into the bearings by using shop air. My concern with using shop air directly against the oil film was that I thought it was as likely to scavenge oil out as to force it further in. Sealed the rear hole with silicone gasket maker, reinstalled fan blade and all seems well. I've seen other bike fans seize up but first KLR can recall. 1997 though....   https://www.dropbox.com/s/1w7ser9o4e1hfp0/Fan%20shaft%20oiling%20rear%20view%20drilled.jpg?dl=0   https://www.dropbox.com/s/5a1c65y32t6h853/Fan%20shaft%20oiling.jpg?dl=0   The EX500 fan blade assembly, automotive door edge rubber and upgraded wiring make a significant difference to the amount of air my fan moves through the radiator.