nklr- dim mazda 3 headlights

[ocpianoman]

Apologies if this is a worn out topic. I have a 2000 A14. I am interested in upgrading the exhaust for the sake of appearance, weight savings and a beefier sound, but not too loud. I do not necessarily want more power and I definitely do not want to lose fuel economy as a result. Is this even possible? It is currently running a UNI filter in the stock airbox, stock unmodified carb and jetting and stock (ugly) exhaust which has be de-tweeted a bit. 55mpg still possible at 55k miles on the clock and going strong. The bike has been a workhorse and deserves a little more farkle and some beautifying at this point. The tank is the other ugly bit. The rest of the bike is fairly presentable, somewhat like a clean 1986 F-150 would be presentable. Other options would be to mod the stock exhaust tip as seen previously and refinish it with ceramic coating or similar. Anyone done anything like that? Is it less expensive than a replacement exhaust? I know that increasing air flow through the motor requires enrichening air/fuel mixture, but I want to minimize that and retain as much mpg as possible. I like to twist the throttle occasionally, but I also prefer to cruise slower highways and sip fuel on the longer rides. Thanks for your input, ian

[Don Dodge]

I put an FMF tip on my stock '09 muffler, because I thought it looked a lot better. No other changes. It actually made the sound a little sharper, but not any louder. The muffler is hard as hell, needs hardened drill bits. No effect on mileage, still in the 50s. Don D

On Sun, Feb 1, 2015 at 11:52 AM, ocpianoman@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Apologies if this is a worn out topic. I have a 2000 A14. I am interested in upgrading the exhaust for the sake of appearance, weight savings and a beefier sound, but not too loud. I do not necessarily want more power and I definitely do not want to lose fuel economy as a result. Is this even possible? It is currently running a UNI filter in the stock airbox, stock unmodified carb and jetting and stock (ugly) exhaust which has be de-tweeted a bit. 55mpg still possible at 55k miles on the clock and going strong. The bike has been a workhorse and deserves a little more farkle and some beautifying at this point. The tank is the other ugly bit. The rest of the bike is fairly presentable, somewhat like a clean 1986 F-150 would be presentable. Other options would be to mod the stock exhaust tip as seen previously and refinish it with ceramic coating or similar. Anyone done anything like that? Is it less expensive than a replacement exhaust? I know that increasing air flow through the motor requires enrichening air/fuel mixture, but I want to minimize that and retain as much mpg as possible. I like to twist the throttle occasionally, but I also prefer to cruise slower highways and sip fuel on the longer rides. Thanks for your input, ian

[John Biccum]

I had a "downspout" added to the stock can as part of a project to kill tweety. It's got a deeper sound but its not really any louder. It's not any better looking though and it seems that appearance is important to you. Keintech in Grants Pass, OR did the spout for me, they have been doing similar on the DR350 for years.From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: 2/ 1/ 2015 9:52 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Exhaust upgrade without giving up MPG  

Apologies if this is a worn out topic. I have a 2000 A14. I am interested in upgrading the exhaust for the sake of appearance, weight savings and a beefier sound, but not too loud. I do not necessarily want more power and I definitely do not want to lose fuel economy as a result. Is this even possible? It is currently running a UNI filter in the stock airbox, stock unmodified carb and jetting and stock (ugly) exhaust which has be de-tweeted a bit. 55mpg still possible at 55k miles on the clock and going strong. The bike has been a workhorse and deserves a little more farkle and some beautifying at this point. The tank is the other ugly bit. The rest of the bike is fairly presentable, somewhat like a clean 1986 F-150 would be presentable. Other options would be to mod the stock exhaust tip as seen previously and refinish it with ceramic coating or similar. Anyone done anything like that? Is it less expensive than a replacement exhaust? I know that increasing air flow through the motor requires enrichening air/fuel mixture, but I want to minimize that and retain as much mpg as possible. I like to twist the throttle occasionally, but I also prefer to cruise slower highways and sip fuel on the longer rides. Thanks for your input, ian [The entire original message is not included.]

[John Biccum]

Also somebody on this list found a tractor  muffler at Tractor Supply that they liked.  It was cheap and had a deep exhaust note.From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: 2/ 1/ 2015 2:04 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; ocpianoman@... Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Exhaust upgrade without giving up MPG   I had a "downspout" added to the stock can as part of a project to kill tweety. It's got a deeper sound but its not really any louder. It's not any better looking though and it seems that appearance is important to you. Keintech in Grants Pass, OR did the spout for me, they have been doing similar on the DR350 for years.From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: 2/ 1/ 2015 9:52 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Exhaust upgrade without giving up MPG  

Apologies if this is a worn out topic. I have a 2000 A14. I am interested in upgrading the exhaust for the sake of appearance, weight savings and a beefier sound, but not too loud. I do not necessarily want more power and I definitely do not want to lose fuel economy as a result. Is this even possible? It is currently running a UNI filter in the stock airbox, stock unmodified carb and jetting and stock (ugly) exhaust which has be de-tweeted a bit. 55mpg still possible at 55k miles on the clock and going strong. The bike has been a workhorse and deserves a little more farkle and some beautifying at this point. The tank is the other ugly bit. The rest of the bike is fairly presentable, somewhat like a clean 1986 F-150 would be presentable. Other options would be to mod the stock exhaust tip as seen previously and refinish it with ceramic coating or similar. Anyone done anything like that? Is it less expensive than a replacement exhaust? I know that increasing air flow through the motor requires enrichening air/fuel mixture, but I want to minimize that and retain as much mpg as possible. I like to twist the throttle occasionally, but I also prefer to cruise slower highways and sip fuel on the longer rides. Thanks for your input, ian Posted by: John Biccum Reply via web post johnbiccum@...?subject=RE%3A%20%5BDSN_KLR650%5D%20Exhaust%20upgrade%20without%20giving%20up%20MPG DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com?subject=RE%3A%20%5BDSN_KLR650%5D%20Exhaust%20upgrade%20without%20giving%20up%20MPG Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (3) Visit Your Group New Members 1 [The entire original message is not included.]

[tomatocity]

A friend, think he is a forum member, uses Suzuki mufflers. All I do is split the screen on the stock KLR muffler.

On Sun, Feb 1, 2015 at 2:13 PM, John Biccum johnbiccum@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Also somebody on this list found a tractor muffler at Tractor Supply that they liked. It was cheap and had a deep exhaust note.From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: 2/ 1/ 2015 2:04 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; ocpianoman@... Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Exhaust upgrade without giving up MPG I had a "downspout" added to the stock can as part of a project to kill tweety. It's got a deeper sound but its not really any louder. It's not any better looking though and it seems that appearance is important to you. Keintech in Grants Pass, OR did the spout for me, they have been doing similar on the DR350 for years.From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: 2/ 1/ 2015 9:52 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Exhaust upgrade without giving up MPG Apologies if this is a worn out topic. I have a 2000 A14. I am interested in upgrading the exhaust for the sake of appearance, weight savings and a beefier sound, but not too loud. I do not necessarily want more power and I definitely do not want to lose fuel economy as a result. Is this even possible? It is currently running a UNI filter in the stock airbox, stock unmodified carb and jetting and stock (ugly) exhaust which has be de-tweeted a bit. 55mpg still possible at 55k miles on the clock and going strong. The bike has been a workhorse and deserves a little more farkle and some beautifying at this point. The tank is the other ugly bit. The rest of the bike is fairly presentable, somewhat like a clean 1986 F-150 would be presentable. Other options would be to mod the stock exhaust tip as seen previously and refinish it with ceramic coating or similar. Anyone done anything like that? Is it less expensive than a replacement exhaust? I know that increasing air flow through the motor requires enrichening air/fuel mixture, but I want to minimize that and retain as much mpg as possible. I like to twist the throttle occasionally, but I also prefer to cruise slower highways and sip fuel on the longer rides. Thanks for your input, ian Posted by: John Biccum Reply via web post johnbiccum@...?subject=RE%3A%20%5BDSN_KLR650%5D%20Exhaust%20upgrade%20without%20giving%20up%20MPG DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com?subject=RE%3A%20%5BDSN_KLR650%5D%20Exhaust%20upgrade%20without%20giving%20up%20MPG Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (3) Visit Your Group New Members 1 [The entire original message is not included.]

[skypilot110]

There are some ground rules to reality that might be worth noting here.  I spent a great deal of time working on fuel efficiency with Suzi-Q durring the GetBetterMPG project. These two bits were the most prominent numbers to come out of all that. BTW, most of the testing never went into the web site as it is being held in reserve for a different project. Sorry

First is the loss of weight. While ten lbs may not seem like a lot it is significant when compared to the 400lbs your bike carries all day. Fuel efficiency is first a matter of physics and second a matter of inefficiency. The energy required to motivate 390 lbs vs. 400 lbs may not seem like a lot but in the long run it adds up.

Second is the matter of efficiency. Most of that will come from how you ride and obvious things like the fact that you are driving a small baarn door through a non vaccuum all of the time. There are many things you can do to save fuel there but I digress. In terms of the can you are replacing the one that gets you the better fuel economy is likely going to be one that lets your engine produce more power when the engine is properly tuned. 

There is a lot that goes into that but the basic facts are simple. 

You have to tune the carb to match the exaust or you will not be letting the engine work as it is meant to. Running a daily driver lean is a bad idea as it will burn up your engine in short order. We did that to Suzi-Q intentionally for a while and it worked for what we needed but did some damage to the valves. Dont do that. You dont need a dyno and most can makers can tell you exactly how to jet. You tune it with an Exaust Gas Analyzer and look at how much fuel is coming out the back end.

Another thing that helps an engine breat better is better intake flow. I dont know which filters make this better. A big K&N stuck on the back of the carb works but yo uloose a lot of functionality that way. Better not to start tearing bits off the bike like the airbox unless you are building a full on hot rod, and a KLR would be a silly starting point for that.. Bottom line is get a good filter and keep it clean if you want better fuel efficiency.

When you have lightened up the bike and let the intake and exaust flow better and adjusted the intake to match your exaust you will be making more power, Weeeeeeee, more power is fun! Oh, Sorry,  on to the fuel efficiency bit. More power doesnt matter that much, The fact that the engine is able to make that power more efficiently matter a lot. More important is that how you are riding it still matters more.

When you make power more efficiently, less inherent loss within the engine, you are using less fuel to produce a given amount of power. This causes two things to happen. First you use less fuel to keep the bike moving at a steady state, thus saving fuel. Second, and herein lies the tragedy that caused you to think the oposite, you have a more powerful bike that reminds you of the fun factor. That makes people tend to ride harder eating up more fuel. Bottom line is that people hop up engines to play and when they play they get worse fuel economy. If you are focused on fuel economy hoping up an engine correctly helps it be more efficient and lets you save fuel.

In the end less weight and how you ride will save you fuel. Just make sure you tune it right, clean your air filter and use good oil.

Chris

[Fred Hink]

Thanks Chris, very good and sound information here.  I can only add that most people will think that when cleaning their air filter that if a little oil is good a lot is better.  Air Filters don t work that way.  I have seen this in my shop on numerous occasions:    Customer:  hey Fred can you check out my bike, it seems to have developed an oil leak and I can t find where it s coming from.  Also my bike seems to be running poorly... Me:  When s the last time you cleaned your air filter? Customer:  Oh, I just cleaned it yesterday. Me:  How did you clean it? Customer:  I read on the internet and they say to dunk your filter in oil and wring out the excess. (oil dripping from air box) Me:    SMH Customer:  DOH!   Air filters are a trade-off between filtering out dirt and passing air.  If you want the best air filter for filtering out dirt, I believe for the KLR the stock single density foam is best for getting most of the dirt out of the air.  They are also a little more restrictive than dual density and gauze type filters.  If there was a paper filter element for the KLR that would be even better.  (I know of no paper air filters for the KLR).  Dual Density foam air filters (Twin Air & UNI to name just a couple) will pass more air (more efficiency) but also can pass more dirt.  Dual density foam air filters have a coarser foam on the outside that traps larger particles and passes more air where the inner layer is finer and will filter out more of the smaller particles.  Like I say it is all a trade off.  It is the oil you add to the foam air filters that stick dirt to it.  When you add too much oil there isn t enough air passages for the air to flow in quantities that the engine needs and can cause your motor to run rich.  Foam type air filters work the best with a light amount of air filter oil dispersed throughout and cleaned regularly.  The filter does it s job as long as there is oil to stick the dirt.  Once dirt has stuck to all the oil surfaces and has no place to be trapped, some of this dirt will pass through the filter.  So it is best to properly clean and oil a foam type air filter on a regular basis.  Over oiling a foam type filter is bad for the engine and bad for the filter.  Foam filters are glued together strips of foam.  The adhesives that hold this foam together are attacked by oil if they are saturated and can fall apart easier.  Using a water-based cleaner will help these adhesives stay together and make your filter last longer.   Gauze type air filters (K&N) are a very different type of air filter and need to be treated differently than a foam or paper element.  A gauze type air filter is basically two layers of corrugated screen with a cloth or gauze layer sandwiched in between.  You will also oil this gauze to start the filtering action.  You use a very light oil specific to this type of air filter to help start the filtering action.  Never oil this type of filter like you might do a foam type filter.  Just a light coat and let the oil wick into all the gauze, then touch up the untreated spots lightly after about 20 minutes.  A gauze type filter will be more efficient than a foam type but also has the potential of passing more dirt if not treated properly.  Also a gauze type filter works by keeping the dirt on the outside of the element and breathes through this filtered out dirt to increase the filtering action until there is so much dirt on the outside that air is also restricted.  This will tell you that your filter needs to be cleaned.  I have seen a large amount of dirt on the outside of these filters and the engine still breathes well.  So cleaning them often will do your engine a disservice.  A gauze filter will let you know when it needs to be cleaned and works better the longer you leave it till it just won t breathe anymore.  A foam type filter is just the opposite.  It filters the best right after it has been cleaned and oiled.  It will eventually pass dirt the longer you run it and you may never get that warning that it needs to be cleaned.  I ve heard comments that the K&N filter needs cleaning too often as it shows up dirt on the outside of the element.  That is just the way those types of filters work.  They filter dirt keeping it on the outside of the filter where a foam type filters the dirt mostly on the inside.  If you see dirt on the outside of the filter that is telling you that it is doing it s job buy keeping this dirt out of your motor.  I have also heard that gauze filters will pass more dirt inside and since I have never had that experience, I have to believe those situations may arise from not maintaining the element properly.  YMMV  -  cleaning a foam filter often is good, cleaning a gauze type often is bad.   Air filters are like tires and oil etc.  Everyone has their own biases and these are mine.  I believe either type air filter will work just fine if treated properly and you keep an eye on them.  They both have their advantages and disadvantages. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com       [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, February 2, 2015 7:37 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Exhaust upgrade without giving up MPG    

There are some ground rules to reality that might be worth noting here.  I spent a great deal of time working on fuel efficiency with Suzi-Q durring the GetBetterMPG project. These two bits were the most prominent numbers to come out of all that. BTW, most of the testing never went into the web site as it is being held in reserve for a different project. Sorry   First is the loss of weight. While ten lbs may not seem like a lot it is significant when compared to the 400lbs your bike carries all day. Fuel efficiency is first a matter of physics and second a matter of inefficiency. The energy required to motivate 390 lbs vs. 400 lbs may not seem like a lot but in the long run it adds up.   Second is the matter of efficiency. Most of that will come from how you ride and obvious things like the fact that you are driving a small baarn door through a non vaccuum all of the time. There are many things you can do to save fuel there but I digress. In terms of the can you are replacing the one that gets you the better fuel economy is likely going to be one that lets your engine produce more power when the engine is properly tuned.   There is a lot that goes into that but the basic facts are simple.   You have to tune the carb to match the exaust or you will not be letting the engine work as it is meant to. Running a daily driver lean is a bad idea as it will burn up your engine in short order. We did that to Suzi-Q intentionally for a while and it worked for what we needed but did some damage to the valves. Dont do that. You dont need a dyno and most can makers can tell you exactly how to jet. You tune it with an Exaust Gas Analyzer and look at how much fuel is coming out the back end.   Another thing that helps an engine breat better is better intake flow. I dont know which filters make this better. A big K&N stuck on the back of the carb works but yo uloose a lot of functionality that way. Better not to start tearing bits off the bike like the airbox unless you are building a full on hot rod, and a KLR would be a silly starting point for that.. Bottom line is get a good filter and keep it clean if you want better fuel efficiency.   When you have lightened up the bike and let the intake and exaust flow better and adjusted the intake to match your exaust you will be making more power, Weeeeeeee, more power is fun! Oh, Sorry,  on to the fuel efficiency bit. More power doesnt matter that much, The fact that the engine is able to make that power more efficiently matter a lot. More important is that how you are riding it still matters more.   When you make power more efficiently, less inherent loss within the engine, you are using less fuel to produce a given amount of power. This causes two things to happen. First you use less fuel to keep the bike moving at a steady state, thus saving fuel. Second, and herein lies the tragedy that caused you to think the oposite, you have a more powerful bike that reminds you of the fun factor. That makes people tend to ride harder eating up more fuel. Bottom line is that people hop up engines to play and when they play they get worse fuel economy. If you are focused on fuel economy hoping up an engine correctly helps it be more efficient and lets you save fuel.   In the end less weight and how you ride will save you fuel. Just make sure you tune it right, clean your air filter and use good oil.   Chris

[mark ward]

Saving $$$? At a savings of $,025  Thats 2 1/2 CENTS per gallon (@ $4. a gallon and we all know it's coming back and HIGHER, Experts say $5. a gallon.) So,.... It would take aprox. 2750 Gallons of gas, just to break even (And thats with a Cheaper $275. muffler.) That takes riding 123,570 Miles, Averaging 45mpg, since the bike averages 35 freeway & 55mpg 50mph and less. I think a New Muffler, is like a new seat, More for Enjoyment of the quality of the ride, then the savings. OK now someone show me why my math is off. (Tired but to early to go to bed. LOL) On Monday, February 2, 2015 10:49 AM, "'Fred Hink' moabmc@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  Thanks Chris, very good and sound information here.  I can only add that most people will think that when cleaning their air filter that if a little oil is good a lot is better.  Air Filters don t work that way.  I have seen this in my shop on numerous occasions:    Customer:  hey Fred can you check out my bike, it seems to have developed an oil leak and I can t find where it s coming from.  Also my bike seems to be running poorly... Me:  When s the last time you cleaned your air filter? Customer:  Oh, I just cleaned it yesterday. Me:  How did you clean it? Customer:  I read on the internet and they say to dunk your filter in oil and wring out the excess. (oil dripping from air box) Me:    SMH Customer:  DOH!   Air filters are a trade-off between filtering out dirt and passing air.  If you want the best air filter for filtering out dirt, I believe for the KLR the stock single density foam is best for getting most of the dirt out of the air.  They are also a little more restrictive than dual density and gauze type filters.  If there was a paper filter element for the KLR that would be even better.  (I know of no paper air filters for the KLR).  Dual Density foam air filters (Twin Air & UNI to name just a couple) will pass more air (more efficiency) but also can pass more dirt.  Dual density foam air filters have a coarser foam on the outside that traps larger particles and passes more air where the inner layer is finer and will filter out more of the smaller particles.  Like I say it is all a trade off.  It is the oil you add to the foam air filters that stick dirt to it.  When you add too much oil there isn t enough air passages for the air to flow in quantities that the engine needs and can cause your motor to run rich.  Foam type air filters work the best with a light amount of air filter oil dispersed throughout and cleaned regularly.  The filter does it s job as long as there is oil to stick the dirt.  Once dirt has stuck to all the oil surfaces and has no place to be trapped, some of this dirt will pass through the filter.  So it is best to properly clean and oil a foam type air filter on a regular basis.  Over oiling a foam type filter is bad for the engine and bad for the filter.  Foam filters are glued together strips of foam.  The adhesives that hold this foam together are attacked by oil if they are saturated and can fall apart easier.  Using a water-based cleaner will help these adhesives stay together and make your filter last longer.   Gauze type air filters (K&N) are a very different type of air filter and need to be treated differently than a foam or paper element.  A gauze type air filter is basically two layers of corrugated screen with a cloth or gauze layer sandwiched in between.  You will also oil this gauze to start the filtering action.  You use a very light oil specific to this type of air filter to help start the filtering action.  Never oil this type of filter like you might do a foam type filter.  Just a light coat and let the oil wick into all the gauze, then touch up the untreated spots lightly after about 20 minutes.  A gauze type filter will be more efficient than a foam type but also has the potential of passing more dirt if not treated properly.  Also a gauze type filter works by keeping the dirt on the outside of the element and breathes through this filtered out dirt to increase the filtering action until there is so much dirt on the outside that air is also restricted.  This will tell you that your filter needs to be cleaned.  I have seen a large amount of dirt on the outside of these filters and the engine still breathes well.  So cleaning them often will do your engine a disservice.  A gauze filter will let you know when it needs to be cleaned and works better the longer you leave it till it just won t breathe anymore.  A foam type filter is just the opposite.  It filters the best right after it has been cleaned and oiled.  It will eventually pass dirt the longer you run it and you may never get that warning that it needs to be cleaned.  I ve heard comments that the K&N filter needs cleaning too often as it shows up dirt on the outside of the element.  That is just the way those types of filters work.  They filter dirt keeping it on the outside of the filter where a foam type filters the dirt mostly on the inside.  If you see dirt on the outside of the filter that is telling you that it is doing it s job buy keeping this dirt out of your motor.  I have also heard that gauze filters will pass more dirt inside and since I have never had that experience, I have to believe those situations may arise from not maintaining the element properly.  YMMV  -  cleaning a foam filter often is good, cleaning a gauze type often is bad.   Air filters are like tires and oil etc.  Everyone has their own biases and these are mine.  I believe either type air filter will work just fine if treated properly and you keep an eye on them.  They both have their advantages and disadvantages. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com       [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, February 2, 2015 7:37 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Exhaust upgrade without giving up MPG     There are some ground rules to reality that might be worth noting here.  I spent a great deal of time working on fuel efficiency with Suzi-Q durring the GetBetterMPG project. These two bits were the most prominent numbers to come out of all that. BTW, most of the testing never went into the web site as it is being held in reserve for a different project. Sorry   First is the loss of weight. While ten lbs may not seem like a lot it is significant when compared to the 400lbs your bike carries all day. Fuel efficiency is first a matter of physics and second a matter of inefficiency. The energy required to motivate 390 lbs vs. 400 lbs may not seem like a lot but in the long run it adds up.   Second is the matter of efficiency. Most of that will come from how you ride and obvious things like the fact that you are driving a small baarn door through a non vaccuum all of the time. There are many things you can do to save fuel there but I digress. In terms of the can you are replacing the one that gets you the better fuel economy is likely going to be one that lets your engine produce more power when the engine is properly tuned.   There is a lot that goes into that but the basic facts are simple.   You have to tune the carb to match the exaust or you will not be letting the engine work as it is meant to. Running a daily driver lean is a bad idea as it will burn up your engine in short order. We did that to Suzi-Q intentionally for a while and it worked for what we needed but did some damage to the valves. Dont do that. You dont need a dyno and most can makers can tell you exactly how to jet. You tune it with an Exaust Gas Analyzer and look at how much fuel is coming out the back end.   Another thing that helps an engine breat better is better intake flow. I dont know which filters make this better. A big K&N stuck on the back of the carb works but yo uloose a lot of functionality that way. Better not to start tearing bits off the bike like the airbox unless you are building a full on hot rod, and a KLR would be a silly starting point for that.. Bottom line is get a good filter and keep it clean if you want better fuel efficiency.   When you have lightened up the bike and let the intake and exaust flow better and adjusted the intake to match your exaust you will be making more power, Weeeeeeee, more power is fun! Oh, Sorry,  on to the fuel efficiency bit. More power doesnt matter that much, The fact that the engine is able to make that power more efficiently matter a lot. More important is that how you are riding it still matters more.   When you make power more efficiently, less inherent loss within the engine, you are using less fuel to produce a given amount of power. This causes two things to happen. First you use less fuel to keep the bike moving at a steady state, thus saving fuel. Second, and herein lies the tragedy that caused you to think the oposite, you have a more powerful bike that reminds you of the fun factor. That makes people tend to ride harder eating up more fuel. Bottom line is that people hop up engines to play and when they play they get worse fuel economy. If you are focused on fuel economy hoping up an engine correctly helps it be more efficient and lets you save fuel.   In the end less weight and how you ride will save you fuel. Just make sure you tune it right, clean your air filter and use good oil.   Chris #ygrps-yiv-1791113824 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853 -- #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1791113824 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-1791113824 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-1791113824 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1791113824 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853 #ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1791113824yiv8175149853ad { padding:0 0;} #ygrps-yiv-1791113824 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[skypilot110]

You math is right on the money but the numbers you get back from riding carefully are way way higher. look at the swing between city and highway. If you could get that all the time what would the return be. More over you can do better than that with some carefully implemented riding tricks ---In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, wrote : Saving $$$? At a savings of $,025  Thats 2 1/2 CENTS per gallon (@ $4. a gallon and we all know it's coming back and HIGHER, Experts say $5. a gallon.) So,.... It would take aprox. 2750 Gallons of gas, just to break even (And thats with a Cheaper $275. muffler.) That takes riding 123,570 Miles, Averaging 45mpg, since the bike averages 35 freeway & 55mpg 50mph and less. I think a New Muffler, is like a new seat, More for Enjoyment of the quality of the ride, then the savings. OK now someone show me why my math is off. (Tired but to early to go to bed. 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[Ian Francisco]

Thanks to Chris for the excellent summary. My goal, which was probably not clearly stated, is to lose weight, gain a bit of sound, beautify, and still get over 50 mpg when ridden conservatively, in other words, not make the engine significantly thirstier than stock. A by-product of that would likely be a bit more power available when the throttle is twisted but that is a perk, not a goal. -- [b]Ian Francisco http://www.scarletfuries.com http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931[/b]