09 won't run without full choke
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 12:58 pm
Bought a very low mileage 09 KLR that ran but had sat for at least nine months, maybe a year. I've exhausted my limited tech knowledge on this.
Drained the fuel tank, added new fuel and the recommended amount of Seafoam. Have the following indications:
- Starts and runs fine with full choke
- Dies immediately after choke is retarded, even when fully warmed up
- Slow throttle advance always kills engine
- Fast throttle advance sometimes accelerates rpm, but more often kills engine
- Occasionally get pops when throttle is advanced quickly (unless it kills the engine, of course)
Prior to starting bike for the first time I removed the header pipe (was extremely loose anyway) and wrapped with fiberglass tape. Reinstalled header with new gasket, installed the correct way around. Tightened header nuts to factory torque. I have the Haynes and Kawasaki maintenance manuals.
I have no clue what is causing this, so I don't know where to start troubleshooting. I've done the obvious like rechecking header nut torque, but beyond that I'm at a loss.
Suggestions?
They can be a real "joy". 5) Loosen the carb boot clamps, remove the throttle cable bracket from the right side of the carb, (one Phillips screw) and unhook the cables. 6) Rotate the carb bowl to the right and use a good fitting Phillips screwdriver bit, with valve lapping compound on the bit, to remove the float bowl screws. I use a Gear Wrench 1/4 " ratcheting combination wrench to turn the screwdriver bit. 7) Take care with the bowl not to damage the float while removing the bowl. 8) Remove the float pivot pin and the float. 9) Remove idle mixture screw, spring, washer and "O" ring. Inspect the "O" ring to see if it is swelled by the fuel. If so needs a new one. Doesn't happen often but some turn to goo. 10) Remove main jet and emulsion tube. 11) Remove idle pilot jet. 12) If have ultrasonic cleaner, "buzz" the parts with Simple Green then Windex or your favorite concoctions. 13) Inspect and probe the holes in jets, and tubes. Take care not to enlarge them but typically one will need to run a wire or jet drill as a probe to displace build-up in the small holes. 14) If have high pressure air, blast these parts and the idle pilot jet hole only. Be careful not to introduce high pressure air unadvisedly as blasting the slide diaphragm chamber is likely to burst the diaphragm. Since it's not usually necessary to remove the diaphragm for a quick clean, one needs take care regarding where the air is directed. 15) Shoot some carb cleaner such as the Honda stuff in spray cans through all passages. 16) Might be a good time to change out the pilot jet for one size larger as this is usually better for running and gets rid of the most likely bad part. 17) Back together and try. What did I miss of the top of my head?