Wilsons Sandbox

Everyone has those moments, when someone suggests something which is "oh so obvious" that it's beyond a face palm.

 

A recent one for me was when my friend Mike & I were installing a Stebel Freeway Blaster horn onto his Gen1. We'd previously installed a horn relay so only needed to swap in a better horn.

 

I've likely installed 20 horns onto Gen1's so, yawn, started removing the old one in preparation to the install when he observed, "Why not just add the new one instead of taking off the old one?".

 

So, then I just stood there looking stunned....

+1 on break in. Not a problem if it's spread out over time. Don't baby the throttle though.

 

As counter-intuitive as it seems to some people, breaking an engine in with light throttle is asking for poor ring seating and oil burning. Use 3/4 throttle or more as much as is convenient. Avoid idling and periods of light throttle for the first couple of hundred miles. FWIW, people who idle engines to warm them up before riding are not doing the engine any favors at all. The research is solid and voluminous on this so it's not a subject for debate.

 

I also suggest that doing additional oil changes after the first two which you have done won't be a benefit. Oil simply does not wear out that quickly and the filter is more than sufficient in area. One should avoid running heavier (thicker) oils than recommended, especially during break-in because thicker oil does not flow as well and the thick oil simply raises oil pressure by increasing restriction. The higher oil pressure at the pump and test port do not translate into more oil at the cam bearings and other critical areas, quite the reverse. In addition, the higher oil pressure causes the oil filter by-pass valve to be open for longer periods which allows particles to go by the filter and into the bearing surfaces. Thick oil is bad news on an engine which is breaking in. An engine which is breaking in is burnishing and lapping in of friction surfaces so one wants high oil volume for lubrication and cooling. One does not obtain high oil volume/flow by using thick oil which restricts flow.

 

I'm also inseam challenged and find the best first step in addressing the problem has been to take a break knife to the seat foam. IMO, the KLR seat foam is too thick and spongy for comfort regardless so reducing the seat foam thickness in the rider's butt area both improves reach and comfort. It's an easy modification: just pry the staples around the rear and sides to allow the foam to be withdrawn, mark the foam with felt pen and slice off the top layer. I usually leave the pillion area at the original thickness as this elevates the passenger a bit which can help with vision. Stuff the foam back into the seat and use some masking or electrical tape to hold the cover in place to try for a few days. If you like the effect, a wooden block as backing and hand stapler has always worked for me. Some feel that they need a power stapler. It is a requirement to use some sort of padded backing to keep the seat plastic from kicking away while stapling, IME. One also needs consider both the angle and length of the staples. An upholstery shop might be a good option to reattach the cover once you have determined that the thickness is ideal but have not had to resort to that.

 

If you feel there's been too much taken off, simply use some rubber contact cement to stick it back in place. One can also stick on a higher or lower density foam if desired.

 

If memory serves, Gen1 seat will fit on Gen2  but the front bracket has to be removed for a Gen2 seat to fit Gen1. I offer that in case you might be hesitant to modify the original seat and choose to find a used seat as a test mule.