awning repair/patch (nklr) vermont??

[Luc Legrain]

i have to admit that i messed up . After tinkering with a valves job,which I got finally right, crossing the 37K barrier,the Ol' Mule ( A19-2005) runs like a new clock BUT ,when I put the valves cover back on ,and looked at the KLR "Bible" (Clymer's manual) I went over board with the torque specs . Now i have the right exhaust bolt stripped and leaking oil ,I thought it would be ok at first, but one would be surprised to see how much oil comes out and burns on the exhaust pipe.. Women don't like a leaky valves cover ,I found out !!

Jokes apart , what do I need to do ? I thought about JBWeld ,fill ,drill, tap .

Thanks for the feed back .

[Desert Datsuns]

I'd have to look at how the valve cover bolts go, but threaded inserts work really well for stuff like that. I'm having a brain fart, and can't think of the real name for them. They are also stronger than the original threads, so you don't have issues with overtightening and stripping threads in the future.RyanPhoenix "Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:  

i have to admit that i messed up . After tinkering with a valves job,which I got finally right, crossing the 37K barrier,the Ol' Mule ( A19-2005) runs like a new clock BUT ,when I put the valves cover back on ,and looked at the KLR "Bible" (Clymer's manual) I went over board with the torque specs . Now i have the right exhaust bolt stripped and leaking oil ,I thought it would be ok at first, but one would be surprised to see how much oil comes out and burns on the exhaust pipe.. Women don't like a leaky valves cover ,I found out !! Jokes apart , what do I need to do ? I thought about JBWeld ,fill ,drill, tap . Thanks for the feed back .

[Jeff Saline]

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[RobertWichert]

Since you do not need to take off the exhaust pipe to do a valve adjustment, I'll assume that you pulled the head.  If not, please tell us. If the bolt is fully stripped, spinning, not holding torque, you will need to repair it.  I would suggest a heli-coil or similar. http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm There are other manufacturers and other styles.  Heli-Coil was among the first, and is still in business.  Call them for solid advice. Good luck! (Yes, it is possible to weld up the hole and drill and retap it, but that is more difficult, in my opinion, due to the problem centering the redrill. JB Weld is not my favorite.  I like DevCon  http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brand=Devcon&family=Aluminum%20Putty%20%28F%29 but for this, I suggest HeliCoil. JB Weld is a kitchen remedy.  DevCon is industrial no B.S. material that can stand up to real industrial use.  Also, the various types are matched to the material they mend, so in heating and cooling cycles, DevCon expands and contracts the same as the parent material.  This is essential for a long lasting bond.  Twenty-five years on my boat outdrive nose-cone is good testament to its staying power.  Multiple hits on multiple sand-bars, rocks, logs, skiers (just kidding) and other flotsam and jetsam show that it can take a beating and hold on tight. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 8/3/2014 5:39 PM, Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

  i have to admit that i messed up . After tinkering with a valves job,which I got finally right, crossing the 37K barrier,the Ol' Mule ( A19-2005) runs like a new clock BUT ,when I put the valves cover back on ,and looked at the KLR "Bible" (Clymer's manual) I went over board with the torque specs . Now i have the right exhaust bolt stripped and leaking oil ,I thought it would be ok at first, but one would be surprised to see how much oil comes out and burns on the exhaust pipe.. Women don't like a leaky valves cover ,I found out !! Jokes apart , what do I need to do ? I thought about JBWeld ,fill ,drill, tap . Thanks for the feed back .

[Stu]

helicoils may be what you are trying to think of- if they make them for that size (prob'ly do). hadn't used them in years - but repaired many an air cooled engine with them. drill out(sometimes you didn't need to), tap, reverse thread helicoil, put original bolt back in - and "Bob's yer Uncle" They may have a better contemporary alternative. Stu 2002 KLR 650 - Mutant Ninja Turtle Green ThermoHickey DooBobb 285 watt Steel foot Pegs SS Brake Lines Soft Panniers Updated Lights (Head and strobe tail - am adding two more driving lights) Corbin Seat HT Trail Guards HT SkidPlate Mini-Dash

----- Original Message ----- From: "Desert Datsuns datsun@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, August 3, 2014 9:37:47 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] klr650 valves cover I'd have to look at how the valve cover bolts go, but threaded inserts work really well for stuff like that. I'm having a brain fart, and can't think of the real name for them. They are also stronger than the original threads, so you don't have issues with overtightening and stripping threads in the future. Ryan Phoenix "Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: i have to admit that i messed up . After tinkering with a valves job,which I got finally right, crossing the 37K barrier,the Ol' Mule ( A19-2005) runs like a new clock BUT ,when I put the valves cover back on ,and looked at the KLR "Bible" (Clymer's manual) I went over board with the torque specs . Now i have the right exhaust bolt stripped and leaking oil ,I thought it would be ok at first, but one would be surprised to see how much oil comes out and burns on the exhaust pipe.. Women don't like a leaky valves cover ,I found out !! Jokes apart , what do I need to do ? I thought about JBWeld ,fill ,drill, tap . Thanks for the feed back .

[ato137528]

I've had to helicoil all four of the valve cover bolt holes.  PAIN IN THE ASS!

[Norm Keller]

#ygrps-yiv-1026046932 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1026046932cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1026046932 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1026046932cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1026046932 .ygrps-yiv-1026046932plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1026046932 .ygrps-yiv-1026046932plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1026046932 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1026046932 .ygrps-yiv-1026046932plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1026046932 .ygrps-yiv-1026046932plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} All four? Time to have a talk with whom ever is doing the tightening.  

[Luc Legrain]

Of course, me being me , after the valves ajustment , once the valves cover was in place and following the torques specs from Clymer  on the last bolt ( right intake) , ithought  " give it a little bit more ,it won't hurt " well ,yes it does hurt , stripped it ,....now i have oil burning on exhaust , on jug ,and on my boots ...  

[Norm Keller]

#ygrps-yiv-1249766607 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1249766607cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1249766607 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1249766607cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1249766607 .ygrps-yiv-1249766607plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1249766607 .ygrps-yiv-1249766607plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1249766607 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1249766607 .ygrps-yiv-1249766607plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1249766607 .ygrps-yiv-1249766607plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} I suspect that my questions sometimes come across as sounding like I'm disputing but always simply asking.   You likely already know the following but just in case:   We often refer to the condition in which threads have been broken off at their root (maximum) diameter as having been "pulled out". This creates a hole similar to that of drilling out the threads.   If the threads are pulled out of the head, a tap won't help because there will be no material left into which to cut threads.   We often refer to threads which have been damaged by turning in a fastener of the wrong thread or turning in a thread at the wrong angle as "cross threaded" which is distinct from being pulled out.   Stripped threads can describe either condition.   Please note that I am not correcting your use of terms, simply trying to define how I use them and the quite standard trades' use of the terms.   Cross threaded threads can often be repaired by running a thread chaser over the threads to return the thread material to the proper position. This can work quite well in steel, fairly well in many aluminum alloys and not at all in cast iron.   Sounds like the threads for your cover hold downs are pulled out?   In that case, you will need to replace the material which has been removed from the hole in some way or to go to a larger diameter bolt which will be accommodated by the larger hole.   Most of the time we use a heli-coil type insert which is a set of threads, looking like a coil spring. The inside diameter of the threads matches the original threads and the outside diameter is large enough to engage in new threads cut into the hole. You are most likely well aware of these but someone else may find the mention to be useful.   FWIW, I'd recommend that anyone doing very much wrenching might be a well advised to have a 6 mm heli-coil kit as this size is "popular" (unfortunately). I'd also mirror the recommendation given regarding buying a used tire and wheel on which to practice tire changing with the recommendation to practice a few times before undertaking the head.   A few other random thoughts regarding threads. I apologize that am a bit scattered because am having to run out to help a friend with a motor home 460 Ford and then back to continue the valve adjustment on a CBR400RR. I have what are likely the only two in our part of the country as visitors at the moment. Fuel pump on one and a bunch of work on the other. Talk about coincidence. I'm never happy with those multi-valve shim adjustments.    Worry too much.   Heli-coils require cutting a new, larger thread which requires their own special tap. Be careful in substituting different makes of inserts and taps as have heard that there may be differences, although have done hundreds of heli-coils without noticing any differences.   If the hole is not correctly sized (drilled) for the tap, or if the tap is started at an angle, the wedging action may split/crack the surrounding material.   Heli-coils are great for blind holes (holes which have a bottom) but don't like them for holes without a bottom, such as spark plugs. This is because the friction of turning the fastener can wind the coil along with the fastener which can leave some of the coil protruding from the inside of the hole. The coils also have a tendency to come out with the fastener when next removed. Thread-serts and similar devices which are a threaded sleeve rather than a coil can be preferable for spark plug and other holes which are not blind.   The pulled threads for the cover are quite common as the bolts are frequently removed which may fatigue the threads, IMO. A torque wrench can help in avoiding that bit of over tightening to which most of us are susceptible.   Most heli-coil type inserts are intended to be installed by simply threading the existing pulled out hole but have a good look to make certain that the hole seems true and that there is nothing loose or about to break free to wedge the tap.   If the heli-coil inserts you have are too long, they can be cut using a small cut-off wheel or even with side cutters although this has a tendency to bend the end so attention needs be given. I prefer to cut after installing but this isn't always possible. Beware of the flying piece. It can find all sorts of ways to get into the bike's gizzard.   I usually use a 1/4" drive ratchet and thread socket for these sorts of confined areas, FWIW.

[skypilot110]

Very well said but I wish to add one caviat. 

To insert the heli coil you must drill to a larger hole size then tap it to the OD and pitch of the Helicoil. That will create lots of tiny chips of metal which must never get in the head, Since you are working with the Valve cover off this is a real issue. You MUST MUST MUST take great care to prevent this since metal chips do bad things to bearings.  On the surface it sounds like you would just put the valve cover back on. The problem is the drill and tap are bigger than the hole in the valve cover so you would ruin it.

Option one is to cover everything with rages, several layers, and tape around the area you are working to seal it. When done use a vaccumm to suck the chips up then lift the rags then the tape. If you go with this option dont F it up. Take you time and make sure everything is covered and sealed up. An extra 20 minutes here could save you a lot of heart ache later

Option two is best. Remove the head. I know it takes more work but it give two advantages. First is that even if chips get in it it is easily cleaned before re instalation and second is that you can have a local machine shop do the helicoil if you are ok with machining it. Remember that the hole you drill mush be straight and parallel to the original. A hand drill is a great way to scrap the head if you drill crooked so this option has lots of up side. It isnt nearly as hard as you think either. You simply remove the rockers, shims... Lock the engin in place, I use a breaker bar and socket on the front sprocket and tiewrap it to the swing arm and sprocket. Now make sure you chain will stay put, safety wirefron both ends around the frame, little wooden wedges... There are lots of methods and the internet and manuals all show them. then mark the cam possition so it goes back in the same possition. Then unbolt the head and go to the machine shop.

Another upside to option 2 is that it is a good time to upgrade to 685cc. Since you might be talking to the machine shop already they will probably charge  less for the Heli Coil if the are boring the cyl.