Wilsons Sandbox

#ygrps-yiv-1224905385 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1224905385cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1224905385 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1224905385cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1224905385 .ygrps-yiv-1224905385plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1224905385 .ygrps-yiv-1224905385plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1224905385 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1224905385 .ygrps-yiv-1224905385plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1224905385 .ygrps-yiv-1224905385plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} "KLR over charges batteries".   I will try to remember to do another write up on the charging  system but the VRR's voltage reference comes from the Brown/white wire which leads from the ignition switch. I also like to improve the white wire from the VRR by adding an additional larger wire from the white VRR terminal to the battery side of the starter relay. There's a significant voltage drop in that circuit.   Check the voltage difference between the battery + and the white terminal in the VRR plug with engine rev'd up to around 3,000 RPM to see what's there. FWIW, decreasing the voltage drop in the white circuit will not increase the maximum output (amps/watts) from the charging system but it can allow the alternator to charge a bit more at a bit lower RPM. Whether it's worth your effort is more qualitative than quantitative, IME.   Measure the voltage between the VRR Brown/white wire terminal and the battery positive with engine at about 3,000 RPM. The sense wire (Brown/white) allows the VRR to "see" the voltage after the ignition switch so any voltage drop in the wiring up to brown wire from the ignition switch is automatically adjusted to the voltage regulator's set point voltage by increasing voltage at the VRR. Problem is, any voltage drop in the wiring to the ignition switch becomes higher than desired voltage at the battery.   I often move the Brown/white wire to the main power relay's switched side to avoid this issue. Regardless, installing headlight relays or HID headlight removes most of the ignition switch voltage drop which reduces this over charging.   Another charging issue is that the battery requires a lower charging voltage when hot than when cold. Typically, automotive and other more sophisticated charging systems take this into account and reduce charging voltage at higher temperatures. Anyone who has a voltmeter on board their KLR will notice that the VRR voltage set point becomes lower when the VRR is hot. Conjecture on my part as to whether this is intentional or incidental to the VRR design. Moving the VRR into an area having better ventilation as on the Gen2 may help this effect which is why many of us have done so. The air flow under the seat is quite decent as have measured temperatures so not certain that the relocation is that much help unless one uses a sheep skin or other cove as do I.   I'm waiting to go down to collect a MOSFET VRR for some experiments with this KLR and will report the results. Not certain whether the MOSFET is a series regulator as suggested by the use of MOSFET or whether it is a shunt type using MOSFETs. The 'scope tells all.    HIH   Norm

A friend sent this in response to a Cycle World comparison of an electric versus a conventional dual sport. I haven't checked it out but admit that I'd like to play with one. The extra 40 pounds would be nasty on a KLR or any bike but as a toy....

>Subject: : Klr Kubota Diesel > >Electric vs coal is interesting but I like this better.

The diesel adds 40lbs heavier, 90 hp, 120 miles to the gallon and has a 6 speed transmission and is being built in BC. R

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