battery questions

[Lee Dodge]

If I assume the "trickle Charger " you mention is the same as a 'battery maintainer' then you can't expect it to charge a 12 V battery as the voltage supplied by a maintainer is below 13 V.  The voltage required to charge a 12 V battery is above 12.9v up to 14.4 however a maintainer is best at between 13.5 and 13.8V because is slow enough i.e. current level, not to cause 'gassing'  i.e. lose of water.  This relates to common warm temperatures, it changes as temp changes.  The following chart is something any 'trickle/maintainer' charger you have or may buy should be compared to.  Some are worth nothing-beware.   Here's a site that will give you the proper story including the effect of temperature (which I have not considered but in your case it is indeed important http://www.powerstream.com/SLA.htm

[eddiebmauri]

OK, y'all, here is the problem, what should I do next?  A while ago my speedometer needle started to flutter, then the RPM needle and speedometer needle failed, dead.  So, today, I put a new speedometer cable and the RPM needle came to life, but the speedometer needle is still dead? I am confused?   At least I have RPM's now.

What should I do next?  Replace the entire speedometer box, or the part on the hub where the speedometer cable attaches?  What is your best guess.

Can someone please give me a clue?  BTW, I am not much of a mechanic, so any advise will be appreciated.

Eddie

[Jeff Saline]

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I am confused?   At least I have RPM's now.   What should I do next?  Replace the entire speedometer box, or the part on the hub where the speedometer cable attaches?  What is your best guess.   Can someone please give me a clue?  BTW, I am not much of a mechanic, so any advise will be appreciated.   Eddie <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><>   Eddie,   Tell us the year please.   I'll suggest the tach is a different issue from the speedometer.  The tach is using electrical signals for the needle and the speedo is using mechanical input for the needle.  Maybe there is a loose electrical connection which you moved while working on the machine.  I would check the connectors to make sure wires are secure and connections are tight.   For the speedo remove the cable from the back of the instrument.  Turn the front wheel and watch the cable inside the speedo cable housing.  It should turn when the wheel turns.  It is easiest to see if you spin the wheel fast.  If the cable turns the issue is probably in the speedo instrument.  If the cable doesn't turn the issue is probably in the cable or drive hub located on the right side of the front wheel hub.  If the cable turns maybe put the cable back on the speedo instrument but don't tighten the nut, leave it a little loose.  See if the speedo works.  If so you might need to remove about 1/4" from the cable.  It has been reported a few times that inner cables that are a little too long on a new cable will cause the speedo to not work.  RevMaaatin and I saw this first hand maybe two years ago.  His cable housing was good but the inner cable was broken.  I had an old cable with a broken housing but good inner cable.  We had to remove about 3/16" with a dremel cutoff wheel to get his speedo to work.  As far as I know it is still working well.   My guess is the drive hub was installed incorrectly and the speedo worked for maybe 1,000 miles or so.  Then it failed.  This is pretty common.  To inspect, remove the front wheel and see if the flanges on the front wheel hub that drive the speedo drive are intact.  Also look at the flat metal piece inside the speedo drive housing and see if it is still flat.  If the housing was installed incorrectly with the parts of the drive and wheel hub not mating it will bend the tabs.  Eventually the hub often gets damaged.  If the only thing wrong is the flat metal part in the drive housing is not longer flat you can pull it out and flatten it with a small hammer and gentle blows.  Make sure you lube the drive housing/gears with wheel bearing grease.   Let us know what you find and also the year of the bike and help can continue if needed.   Best,   Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . ____________________________________________________________ [b]Best Dividend Stocks 2014[/b] Six solid dividend stocks to give your portfolio an income boost. WealthyRetirement.com

[cycletip]

Something else I've seen done which gives some interesting options is to install one of those trick bicycle computers in place of the whole instrument cluster.  They work pretty good and don't cost much.  Would take bit of fab work to make it look right.  Not having a tach isn't that big of deal on a KLR IMO.  Street trackers and some dual sport bikes use this set-up.  Not OEM but definitely an alternative. 

[roncriswell@ymail.com]

Funny about the tach. I talked to a drag bike guy once telling I noticed no tach on his machine. He laughed and said he had done it so long, he knew when to shift. He had a button / air shifter. Criswell Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 2, 2014, at 9:25 AM, wrote:

  Something else I've seen done which gives some interesting options is to install one of those trick bicycle computers in place of the whole instrument cluster.  They work pretty good and don't cost much.  Would take bit of fab work to make it look right.  Not having a tach isn't that big of deal on a KLR IMO.  Street trackers and some dual sport bikes use this set-up.  Not OEM but definitely an alternative.