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changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 7:10 pm
by Stu Mitchell
Murphy is a close personal friend of mine and, in fact, lives next door. We even exchange gifts each year….

 

Project - Drill out upper subframe and replace with one continuous bolt

Resource - Kit from Eagle Mike

Challenge - one bolt head already sheared off

 

So, I’m down in the garage, working on the bike by drilling out the remnants of the stock bolt that held the upper frame together on the port side.

 

Flashbacks of the movie Armaggedon w/Bruce Willis et al where they are trying to drill through solid iron core to save the earth plague me. “Aha success!”, after three drill bits, I finally have a hole drilled. Brand new DeWalt ‘ drill just bought for this project comes through and we’re in.

 

So, in goes the extractor bit. No problem here – dang can’t find the stupid T-handle for extractor bits. But hey, I use that thing so infrequently, I’m not surprised it’s gone. I may have loaned it out, left it somewhere, rat may have walked off with it - who knows…. But the end of the extractor is a square end so I can get something on it – or I’ll just go get another handle – but those handles really don’t provide much grip or leverage anyway.

 

So, ever so carefully I am trying to unscrew the bolt with the extractor. I am using a crescent wrench (the jaws go to 0) to turn the extractor. When suddenly, “sproing”… the extractor is now broken off in the hole drilled.

 

“Hey Murph – Merry Christmas – Thanks!!”

 

So open to suggestions to get an extractor out or drill through it or burn the bike to the ground and say “to Hell with it…”

 

I’ve been able to drill through from the other side with Eagle Mike’s “warm-up” bit. I just don’t see going through all that solid steel with anything short of a laser.

 

 

[b][i]Stu[/i][/b]

[b][i]o&>o[/i][/b]

[b]  ~~~~~[/b][b][i]/)[/i][/b][b]~~~~~[/b]

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changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 9:28 am
by jet_doctor2002
You need to find a carbide drill bit that is the size of the extractor.  It will drill through the broken extractor like any other steel.  MSC, Amazon, Enco, Ebay will have them.  You can also try your local machine shop.  I keep a couple around to fix oops's. If you are lucky, you also might be able to spread the frame and get a cutoff wheel in there to cut off the bolt flush and with the subframe out of the way have less to drill through.  If you are going to drill it out, there is no real reason to extract it. Good luck, Doug

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:16 am
by Norm Keller
A broken extractor always adds that garnish to an almost perfect masterpiece! It's like that sprig of parsley on the salad. Not what you wanted, hard to swallow but has to be removed before you can get started. ;)   What shape of easy-out have you used? If a square tapered one, they can sometimes be worked out but if a spiral, that's more fun. I have carbide drill bits (Garr 1500 series) which will drill holes in a file or easy-out so might consider that if a round one. If you have oxy-acetylene, use a small tip, crank the oxygen pressure up quite high, adjust to a neutral flame and heat the extractor to red. When it's red, crank the oxygen knob open and the extractor will burn to nothing in a second.   Likely, the wrench encouraged just enough bending in addition to turning to snap the extractor.   Another is to tack a rod onto the extractor which will loosen the extractor, then use the rod to slide hammer the extractor out. A couple of light taps is all which is usually needed.   Drilling from the other side and using a punch is a certain method....   Otherwise you might try butane or propane to see if you can get the extractor hot enough (red) to draw the temper then use conventional drill bit and lots of lube to drill out. If it's a square or spiral square, you might be lucky but if one of the round ones with fine splines, "rots-a-ruck" unless you have oxy. Then, may as well burn it out.   This is the subframe bolt right? If so, why not drill through and install a through bolt? That used to be the formula but maybe the thinking has changed?   Keeping fingers crossed on your behalf. Wish you were closer as would like to offer some help.   Norm     Stu posted: "Murphy is a close personal friend of mine and, in fact, lives next door. We even exchange gifts each year . Project - Drill out upper sub frame and replace with one continuous bolt Resource - Kit from Eagle Mike Challenge - one bolt head already sheared off So, I m down in the garage, working on the bike by drilling out the remnants of the stock bolt that held the upper frame together on the port side. Flashbacks of the movie Armaggedon w/Bruce Willis et al where they are trying to drill through solid iron core to save the earth plague me. Aha success! , after three drill bits, I finally have a hole drilled. Brand new DeWalt drill just bought for this project comes through and we re in. So, in goes the extractor bit. No problem here dang can t find the stupid T-handle for extractor bits. But hey, I use that thing so infrequently, I m not surprised it s gone. I may have loaned it out, left it somewhere, rat may have walked off with it - who knows . But the end of the extractor is a square end so I can get something on it or I ll just go get another handle but those handles really don t provide much grip or leverage anyway. So, ever so carefully I am trying to unscrew the bolt with the extractor. I am using a crescent wrench (the jaws go to 0) to turn the extractor. When suddenly, sproing the extractor is now broken off in the hole drilled. Hey Murph Merry Christmas Thanks!! So open to suggestions to get an extractor out or drill through it or burn the bike to the ground and say to Hell with it I ve been able to drill through from the other side with Eagle Mike s warm-up bit. I just don t see going through all that solid steel with anything short of a laser. Stu o&>o ~~~~~/)~~~~~ ---"     PRIVACY PROTECTION If you plan to forward this, please remove all e-mail addresses. Also please use the BCC option when forwarding to more than one person.

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 12:03 pm
by Stu Mitchell
Last first – that is the goal of this exercise – to replace the two stock bolts with a through bolt. Yes, SubFrame up by where the gas tanks bolts down. DPO had sheared the head off of one of the bolts. He may not have known – so I’m not accusing him of hiding it and I didn’t know to check for it at the time… After buying the first one of these jewels, you become an expert at buying the next.

 

I used an Irwin spiral screw extractor…. And several bits….

 

I don’t have any oxy torches – just the cheapie propane bottle and screw on torch setup.

 

I am going to try to find some carbide bits at the local Home Despots and Low’s (intentional misspell).

 

Excellent metaphor…!!

 

Thanks for the moral support and suggestions!

 

[b][i]Stu[/i][/b]

[b][i]o&>o[/i][/b]

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Norm Keller [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, December 23, 2013 12:16 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant

 

 

A broken extractor always adds that garnish to an almost perfect masterpiece! It's like that sprig of parsley on the salad. Not what you wanted, hard to swallow but has to be removed before you can get started. ;)

 

What shape of easy-out have you used? If a square tapered one, they can sometimes be worked out but if a spiral, that's more fun. I have carbide drill bits (Garr 1500 series) which will drill holes in a file or easy-out so might consider that if a round one. If you have oxy-acetylene, use a small tip, crank the oxygen pressure up quite high, adjust to a neutral flame and heat the extractor to red. When it's red, crank the oxygen knob open and the extractor will burn to nothing in a second.

 

Likely, the wrench encouraged just enough bending in addition to turning to snap the extractor.

 

Another is to tack a rod onto the extractor which will loosen the extractor, then use the rod to slide hammer the extractor out. A couple of light taps is all which is usually needed.

 

Drilling from the other side and using a punch is a certain method....

 

Otherwise you might try butane or propane to see if you can get the extractor hot enough (red) to draw the temper then use conventional drill bit and lots of lube to drill out. If it's a square or spiral square, you might be lucky but if one of the round ones with fine splines, "rots-a-ruck" unless you have oxy. Then, may as well burn it out.

 

This is the subframe bolt right? If so, why not drill through and install a through bolt? That used to be the formula but maybe the thinking has changed?

 

Keeping fingers crossed on your behalf. Wish you were closer as would like to offer some help.

 

Norm

 

 

Stu posted:

"Murphy is a close personal friend of mine and, in fact, lives next door. We even exchange gifts each year…. Project - Drill out upper sub frame and replace with one continuous bolt Resource - Kit from Eagle Mike Challenge - one bolt head already sheared off So, I’m down in the garage, working on the bike by drilling out the remnants of the stock bolt that held the upper frame together on the port side. Flashbacks of the movie Armaggedon w/Bruce Willis et al where they are trying to drill through solid iron core to save the earth plague me. “Aha success!”, after three drill bits, I finally have a hole drilled. Brand new DeWalt ‘ drill just bought for this project comes through and we’re in. So, in goes the extractor bit. No problem here – dang can’t find the stupid T-handle for extractor bits. But hey, I use that thing so infrequently, I’m not surprised it’s gone. I may have loaned it out, left it somewhere, rat may have walked off with it - who knows…. But the end of the extractor is a square end so I can get something on it – or I’ll just go get another handle – but those handles really don’t provide much grip or leverage anyway. So, ever so carefully I am trying to unscrew the bolt with the extractor. I am using a crescent wrench (the jaws go to 0) to turn the extractor. When suddenly, “sproing”… the extractor is now broken off in the hole drilled. “Hey Murph – Merry Christmas – Thanks!!” So open to suggestions to get an extractor out or drill through it or burn the bike to the ground and say “to Hell with it…” I’ve been able to drill through from the other side with Eagle Mike’s “warm-up” bit. I just don’t see going through all that solid steel with anything short of a laser. Stu o&>o ~~~~~/)~~~~~ ---"

 

 

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changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:10 pm
by James W. Flower
I forget the diameter of the subframe bolt, but could the right bit in a Dremel tool grind away enough of the bolt to get some needle-nose Visegrips on the extractor? How about a metal bladed hole saw of just the right diameter? Dynamite?

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:29 pm
by Pete Blaszcak

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:38 pm
by Michael Martin
Stu,
My Bernzomatic TS4000 torch will also work with MAPP gas, which produces a lot more heat than propane.  According to Wikipedia, MAPP gas is no longer produced in North America, but there is a substitute called MAP-Pro which is not as good as MAPP but better than propane.  Per the Bernzomatic website, there's a higher output torch called TS8000, too.
None of the "standard" Bernzomatic torches work with MAP-Pro, so your torch may not, either.
Propane burns at 3450 degrees F. in air, MAP-Pro 3600 degrees, MAPP 3670 degrees.  That doesn't sound like a big difference, but I know from experience that there is a pronounced difference between the amount of heat produced between propane and the MAPP gas I have used.  I've never used MAP-Pro.
I suspect that, if the bolt is rusted in place so securely that the bolt head broke off, no EZ out will be able to get it out without somehow breaking that rust loose.  Hence the torch.....
HTH,
Mike Martin,
Louisville, KY

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:43 pm
by Michael Martin
[b]From:[/b] Pete Blaszcak   If you drill from the opposite side until you make contact with the extractor maybe you could use a punch from the side that you drilled from and at least knock the extractor loose enough to remove with needle nose pliers. Or you can buy yourself a handful of 1/16" drill bits and remove metal surrounding the broken extractor to loosen things. 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changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:43 am
by Stu Mitchell
Hey all, No one may care that I finally finished the upper sub-frame repair.. But as they say confession is good for the soul.. Put this in that category - I am going out on a limb here, but I suspect this is a pretty salty crowd.. But, in the performance of drilling out the broken off bolt and the broken off extractor, coupled with the numerous broken bits (@$$ per bit), I used every expletive I knew and some I didn't know and some sounds were akin to Klingon mating calls. But I finally was able to drill though. Because I had to approach the backside of the broken off bolts, the though hole was slightly askew. (slightly??). So I overdrilled it straight and inserted a piece of aluminum tubing in as a new bushing. Then I drilled out the inside of the bushing to the correct ID for the through-bolt. Remember this thread stated back on 12/22. So even thought the story is told in a few lines, it doesn't adequately reflect the time actually spent in the garage, time spent going to get more bits, etc. After I was about half way into the project, someone suggested I should have pictures for posterity. Well, by then it would have been like walking in to a movie that was half over, and I really am glad that there is not photographic evidence of my misbehavior. So the simple conclusion is - again spoken as a newcomer to this elite bastion of KLR creed. DO IT - It's a cheap fix - for under $30.00 one can replace the entire though bolt - or at LEAST upgrade to harder bolts for $10.00 +/-. DO IT - I strongly suggest this - simply because if one waits until after one of those puppies fails - it's no fun. As Eagle Mike says -you may lose your religion. Circumstances - The DPO was not a necessarily big man - and he broke the bolt off - the bike has less than 7k miles - so it's not age. Talking with Eagle Mike (where I got my kit which includes bolts, main drill bits - good ones), he said this is a known failure point for these bikes.. Ergo - that's why he makes the reinforcement kits. So, yeah, if all I had needed to do was drill for a larger though bolt, I probably would have been done in one day - no muss ,no fuss. But with the added excitement of the broken off parts - more drill bits, bushings, cussing, more drilling, more bits, more cussing.. Just sayin'.. 2002 KLR 650 - Work in Progress DooHickey upgrade Stator Upgrade - 280w SS Brake Lines HIR Headlight Strobe Tail light Corbin flat seat (came w/bike) Lowering Links SubFrame Bolt upgrade HT Bash plate and crash bars w/Wolfman soft panniers Thermo-Bob next Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

changed to upper subframe bolt rant

Posted: Sun Dec 29, 2013 2:35 pm
by Stu Mitchell
Hey, Here is where I got my guidance http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205808 and here is where I got the kit http://www.eaglemike.com/main.sc Home of the Doo-Hickey and other handy bits and experience . I ll try to help answer any questions if you run into any issues. But, honestly, if you don t have to go though getting a broken bolt/extractor drilled out, it is not a bad project at all. Be very careful about metal filings from the drill. I used my automotive dropped nut and bolt getter magnet on a stick to help control and collect the filings. But you should still tape , wrap, and surgically cover the bike while drilling. I even flipped duct tape over so I had the sticky side up to help catch filings like fly-paper. The best cutting oil I found was in the plumbing department at Homeless Despots Good luck - good choice for good peace of mind Editorial rant - Rhetorical: So why in the world did Kawasaki use bolts/designs that any freshman engineer in a community college would see are under-specced? That is what most of our upgrades are about - whether it s the Doo-Hickey or the sub-frame bolts, to foot peg bolts or even the available wattage for running accessories - like lights, maybe GPS not even getting to heated accoutrements or radios. Sure, I enjoy wrenching, but I like to be able to pick my battles. But the other side is, I do believe that when all these things are done there aren t any bikes are substantially better on the road or the trail regardless of cost. Some may do one or the other a little better, but not do all of them as well all of the time (borrowed from PT Barnum) as a KLR does. Geez, I sound like an ad . So, if everything (life) comes together then I m hoping to take my ol gal out for some real rides and that s when all of this will have been worth it. Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." Mark Twain From: itsdfoot@... [mailto:itsdfoot@...] Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 2:52 PM To: cloudnine233@... Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant Being a new KLR owner , I wish you did take some pictures so that we newbies would know we're to look, I wish to do this replacement for piece of mind, while the weather is freezing.but Don,t know where to start. Are there any other upgrades one should know about. Thanks --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]