2003 klr won't start ##correction##
Posted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:55 am
Dan,
I had a chance to think about this some more while catching some local
brown trout. Let's continue without the test light or multi-meter for a
bit. I really don't want to try to explain how to use a multi-meter via
e-mail. It's already complicated enough when teaching that in person.
Just to be clear... you did have the key on when you did the tests,
right??? : )
Take the short wire with insulation striped from the ends and put one end
in the connector of the starter relay on the blue/red wire. Connect the
other end to a good ground. Try the starter button. If it cranks there
is an issue with the "safety" system.
If it didn't crank connect the wire to the black wire on the STARTER
SOLENOID (i.e. first part you jumped and it worked) and the other end to
the yellow/red wire on the starter relay. Try the starter button.
If it still didn't work pull the fuel tank. Above the engine head/valve
cover I think on the right side (my 2003 isn't stock in this area
anymore) is the fan relay. It is the same part as the starter relay.
Unplug it and put it in place of the starter relay. Try the starter
button. If it cranks you have a bad relay. If it doesn't let us know
and we can continue.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650
On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 05:48:27 -0700 (PDT) Dan Lammon
writes:
OK, followed the instructions and no luck in getting it cranked. Looks
like I'll need to continue with the checks. Don't currently have a test
light or multitester but I should be able to use one with no problem.
I'll go pick one up (which one would you recommend?) today and prepare
for you next instructions.
Dan
--- On Sun, 6/16/13, Jeff Saline wrote: From: Jeff Saline Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] 2003 KLR won't start ##CORRECTION## To: dan.lammon@... Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, June 16, 2013, 11:12 PM Dan, Just thinking about what I wrote below. Do the stuff above the left footpeg first. If it doesn't crank then do the connector check below the instrument cluster. No point in checking below the instrument cluster if the footpeg stuff works as that will prove the wiring is good between the starter button and the starter relay. Best, Jeff On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 17:05:59 -0600 Jeff Saline writes: Dan, So far so good. Now you know the battery, heavy battery cables and starter solenoid are good. First thing I'd check is the wiring below the instrument cluster. There are some connectors there and I'd make sure they are all tightly connected. You should be able to trace the wire harness from the starter button to locate the correct connector for the starter system. I would first pull on the connector to see if it comes apart. Then I would push on it to see if it would tighten/click. I would also try the starter button each time I did something to see if the starter would turn. If the below instrument connector doesn't make a difference I would go back by the left footpeg area. Below the starter solenoid and in front is a starter circuit relay. It's next to the side stand switch or the place it was. Yeah, a relay to trip a relay to allow the starter to work. : ) It's about the size of a roll of quarters and probably has a rubber cover over the wires/connector. I would work the rubber cover up/off so I could see the connector. There should be four wires, two yellow/red, one blue/red and one black. Again I'd pull on it first and then push on it. Try the starter button. If it cranks it was a loose connection. If it doesn't crank unplug and plug it back on and make sure it's tight. Try it again. If it still doesn't crank take a short piece of wire with the ends striped of insulation. Bend it in a "U" shape and put one end in with the black wire and the other end in with a yellow/red wire. Then press the starter button and see if it cranks. If it cranks the starter relay is not working. Let us know what happens and we can continue if needed. There is a "test" relay located on your bike as the starter relay and fan relay are identical. There are also a few "inexpensive" replacements available from a local auto parts stores. If you need to continue tell me if you have a test light and or multi-meter and the skills/knowledge/desire to use them. Best, Jeff On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 14:51:14 -0700 (PDT) Dan Lammon writes: Jeff, your suggestions worked perfectly. Nothing worked until I got to the starter solenoid and connected the wire to the black wire and the positive terminal of the battery. It cranked right up. So, this means the problem is somewhere between the starter button and starter relay and the starter solenoid? What do I do next? Dan --- On Sat, 6/15/13, Jeff Saline wrote: From: Jeff Saline Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] 2003 KLR won't start To: dan.lammon@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Saturday, June 15, 2013, 9:27 PM On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 15:24:41 -0000 "Dan" writes: > All other electrics on my KLR work fine with the exception of the > "start" button. I really like the look of my bike but I'd much > rather be riding it instead of just looking at it. Any suggestions > of what to check and in what order? Thanks in advance folks. <><><><><><> <><><><><><> Dan, First check the kill switch. : ) Next check the clutch is pulled in and the green neutral light on the instrument cluster is lit. Try the start button. If that didn't do it hold the start button in while you play with the clutch lever in and out. Maybe the clutch switch is a little out of adjustment and it will the crank. If so adjust the clutch switch which is below the clutch lever pivot. If it still doesn't crank pull the black plastic cover above the left footpeg. The starter solenoid has the two heavy battery cable attached to it. Kind of in front of and between the heavy terminals is a small push on connector with two small wires. Make sure the small connector is fully pushed into the solenoid. Try the starter button. If it still doesn't crank make sure the bike is really in neutral so when you get it to crank it doesn't jump away from you. : ) Take a short piece of electrical wire with the insulation striped from both ends for about 1/2 inch. On the small connector the wires are color coded. Black with Yellow is ground. The other wire is black and I can't recall if there is another wire there too that is yellow and black. The black wire is positive. Get ready to hear the bike crank so you aren't startled by this. Take the short wire and put one end into the small connector (still connected to the solenoid) so the metal touches the connector of the small black (positive) wire. Don't put it on the other wire or you will have "issues". Briefly touch (don't connect) the other end of the short wire to the heavy terminal on the right side (rear of bike end) of the solenoid. That terminal is the same as the positive battery terminal. All you are using it for is to get battery voltage. When you touch the wire to the terminal the bike should crank. If the bike cranks go to ### below. If the bike doesn't crank take another short piece of electrical wire and again strip insulation from each end. Put one end in the small connector touching the black/yellow wire (ground). Hold the other end of that wire to ground (bare metal or the negative battery terminal). Again touch the first wire to the right terminal of the solenoid and the bike should crank. If it does there is a problem in the ground connection (black/yellow wire) of the solenoid. ### The problem is between the starter button and the starter circuit relay and the starter solenoid. Let the list know what you find after doing the above and we can proceed as appropriate. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . __________________________________________________________ Political system upset? 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