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carb tuning

Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2000 4:50 pm
by Debbie Barry
I wanted to put my 2 cents in about the tuning on my 01 KLR, after break in I installed a dynojet kit per their instructions along with a Cobra pipe, the stock jet being a 148 and the new jet being a 150  the only real difference I could see happening maybe a little quicker response because of the adjustable needle, I rode this set up for about 600 miles in which time the Cobra pipe self destructed. After a phone call to Dennis Kirk I shipped it back and purchased a Supertrap IDS2 pipe. While the pipe was in transit I followed Mike's airbox mod instructions and cut the box and removed the screen, now running a 160 main jet, 12 disks in the trap, the adjustable needle up all the way and the pilot screw set out about 31/2 turns the bike makes power from about 2000 RPM's all the way to Redline. With a 16t front sprocket I didn't need to use any clutch to get the front wheel off the ground (a few inches), now that winter is here in NH I decided to put the 15t sprocket back on because I will probably be doing more dirt riding than street. I just came back from a ride, the headlight points at the sky with just a twist of the wrist. I did notice a big difference jumping from 8 disks to 12 in the higher RPM range insead of running out of steam at around 5 grand it puuls really hard.
 
BTW, after 5k the stock tires were replaced with Avon Gripsters, I don't really like them on the pavement (feel unpredictable) and they are terrible in the dirt.
John
 
01 KLR
00 Concourse
81 R100s
 
Looking for one more!

carb tuning

Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2001 10:14 am
by cccp7@hotmail.com
Ok here is the deal.. I wanted to tune my carb according to the instructions on http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html... I was gonna start by the PILOT SYSTEM TUNING and after following all the prep instructions when it came time to back the pilot screw, the idle wouldn't slow at all. I allmost removed the screw. turned it out more then 5-6 turns and nothing happens, idle is still 1300.. Anything else I should do before the Pilot System Tuning procedure?? Thanks Raz A8 www3.sympatico.ca/razb

carb tuning

Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2001 10:46 am
by Kurt Simpson (Dual Sport News)
lower the idle by using the idle adjusting screw...then adjust the pilot screw to detect change in the rpm's or just do like most of us and seat it and then back it out 2 to 21/2 turns... Kurt -----Original Message----- From: cccp7@... [mailto:cccp7@...] Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 9:15 AM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] CARB TUNING Ok here is the deal.. I wanted to tune my carb according to the instructions on http://members.aol.com/roundr1/CVK40.html... I was gonna start by the PILOT SYSTEM TUNING and after following all the prep instructions when it came time to back the pilot screw, the idle wouldn't slow at all. I allmost removed the screw. turned it out more then 5-6 turns and nothing happens, idle is still 1300.. Anything else I should do before the Pilot System Tuning procedure?? Thanks Raz A8 www3.sympatico.ca/razb Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com Support Dual Sport News by subscribing at: http://www.dualsportnews.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

carb tuning

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:19 am
by Tony JONES
Before I finally figured out my bike had a stator problem I thought it was carb related and pulled the carbs many times. I finally took it to a shop who "fixed" the carbs but clearly didn't fix the hard starting problem. The bike is currently in this state of tune. When I was working on it, it would pop/backfire on the stand (rev to 3000rpm, release throttle). It doesn't do that now, but it does now have a nice flat spot at around 4200rpm, most noticable when coming on the gas. These two data points seem to conflict as usually the popping is a lean condition. I previously (pre service) drilled out the pilot and set it 1/2 turn further out than manual spec. No clue if the mechanic changed it, he did adjust the float height. Are there any pilot adjustment tools available? I know Sagebrush used to make one but I'm not quite sure whats happened to Jake. Also, there is the Thumb Pilot Needle but I'd heard mixed reviews and I personally think the thumbwheel will make it harder to accurately determine the position of the screw (compared to a wrench/screwdriver) Anyways, now that I fixed the starting issues, I need to tune the carbs. What would be recommend progression of tuning? Verify pilot is 1/2 turn further out, shim needle, drill slide, change main jet, install jet kit. Lots of options at this point. Thanks Tony

carb tuning

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:17 am
by Jud Jones
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Tony Jones" wrote:
> Are there any pilot adjustment tools available?
Grind about half the shank off an Apex bit. Stick it into a short length of 1/4" fuel line or epoxy it to the cap of a toothpaste tube.

carb tuning

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:24 am
by Alan L Henderson
Tony Jones wrote:
> > Are there any pilot adjustment tools available? I know Sagebrush used > to make one but I'm not quite sure whats happened to Jake. Also,
Jake died awhile back. Al A13 Ia

carb tuning

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 9:28 am
by Walter Mitty
I would leave the main jet alone, open up the pilot screw to 2 1/2 turns out, drill the slide to 1/8" and put a couple of washers under the needle. It might not be perfect but it will be a good starting point. Tony Jones wrote: Before I finally figured out my bike had a stator problem I thought it was carb related and pulled the carbs many times. I finally took it to a shop who "fixed" the carbs but clearly didn't fix the hard starting problem. The bike is currently in this state of tune. When I was working on it, it would pop/backfire on the stand (rev to 3000rpm, release throttle). It doesn't do that now, but it does now have a nice flat spot at around 4200rpm, most noticable when coming on the gas. These two data points seem to conflict as usually the popping is a lean condition. I previously (pre service) drilled out the pilot and set it 1/2 turn further out than manual spec. No clue if the mechanic changed it, he did adjust the float height. Are there any pilot adjustment tools available? I know Sagebrush used to make one but I'm not quite sure whats happened to Jake. Also, there is the Thumb Pilot Needle but I'd heard mixed reviews and I personally think the thumbwheel will make it harder to accurately determine the position of the screw (compared to a wrench/screwdriver) Anyways, now that I fixed the starting issues, I need to tune the carbs. What would be recommend progression of tuning? Verify pilot is 1/2 turn further out, shim needle, drill slide, change main jet, install jet kit. Lots of options at this point. Thanks Tony Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Yahoo! Photos Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

carb tuning

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 9:44 am
by Analog Aardvark
Don't forget that the carb has a circuit that keeps it from leaning out when you let off the throttle. Your bike could be jetted right--or even too rich--and still pop like mad if that circuit's little passagways were clogged. If memory serves, you can access the little diaphragm and gizmo that opens this passageway by removing a small round cover on the left side of the carb, but I'd check in the manual before I went at it. I think it may be called a coasting enrichener??? I think Jake (sagebrush) passed away. Two options are 1. Get a short bolt of the appropriate thickness and hold it to a grinder, lenthwise, so you turn the end into a flat blade screwdriver. Dab a bit of paint on one side to help gauge how far you've turned. 2. Get one of those little screwdriver tips from the hardware store (like the ones that go in the end of a multi-bit screwdriver) and epoxy it into a toothpaste cap. Draw a verical line on the cap to help you see how far you've turned. Let us know if you drill your slide out without adding a jet kit... I've been toying with the idea but don't want to screw up a perfectly good slide. -Luke
> When I was working on it, it would pop/backfire on > the stand (rev to > 3000rpm, release throttle). It doesn't do that now, > but it does now > have a nice flat spot at around 4200rpm, most > noticable when coming on > the gas. > These two data points seem to conflict as usually > the popping is a > lean condition.
[SNIP]
> Are there any pilot adjustment tools available? I > know Sagebrush used > to make one but I'm not quite sure whats happened to > Jake.
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carb tuning

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:34 am
by dooden
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Alan L Henderson wrote:
> > Tony Jones wrote: > > > > Are there any pilot adjustment tools available? I know Sagebrush used > > to make one but I'm not quite sure whats happened to Jake. Also, > > > Jake died awhile back. > Al A13 Ia >
Jake is out blazing us some new trails... Godspeed !! I took a small screwdriver tip that fits a handle, using a dremel cut off all of the hex part except enough to hold on too, it fits up in and can be turned with the carb in proper position. Not as pretty but for the one or two times you use it, it works fine for me. Dooden A15 Green Ape

carb tuning

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 11:15 am
by Bogdan Swider
Also,
> there is the Thumb Pilot Needle but I'd heard mixed reviews and I > personally think the thumbwheel will make it harder to accurately > determine the position of the screw (compared to a wrench/screwdriver)
The thumb needle doesn't seat as deeply as the stock screw; it won't shut off the engine when turned in all the way. However you can file a line in it and accurately determine where it's positioned. I tuned my pilot using the sweat spot method: Determine where the RPMs drop when turning in and then where they drop when turned out. The sweat spot is midway between.
> > Anyways, now that I fixed the starting issues, I need to tune the > carbs. What would be recommend progression of tuning? Verify pilot is > 1/2 turn further out, shim needle, drill slide, change main jet, > install jet kit. Lots of options at this point.
Based on my hands on experience and years of reading this list I believe the only practical option besides turning out the pilot is shimming the needle. If you don't care about a drastic decrease in MPGs try the other stuff. Bogdan