Wilsons Sandbox

Sounds to me like your pilot jet is plugged. You will need to remove the float bowl to access this jet for cleaning. You might be able to remove the float bowl while the carb is on the bike. You will have to remove the choke cable from the handlebars and at the carb so you don t damage the choke, before trying to loosen the clamps holding your carb. You can then rotating the carb to access the float bowl. If you haven t drilled out the plug to access the air screw, this would be a great time to do this as well. Open up your air screw to about 1 1/2 turns and it should help your bike start and run better. Then while you are at it, you could also use a couple of small washers under the needle in the slide. You have to remove the diaphragm from the other side of the carb to work on the needle. Be careful that you don t damage the diaphragm as it is very thin and expensive. A Jet Kit will also fix all these jetting issues. Or even better one of these...... http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/images/mikuni_mtt.jpg No diaphragm, no choke cable, better access to the jetting and an adjustable needle. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: symme7ry Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2013 4:03 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] trouble starting 2005 model after six months of storage Hi folks. I last rode my 2005 KLR650 in September. It has been sitting in a parking garage (between 40 and 60 degrees F) since then. I didn't 'prep' it for the winter by removing the gas or anything else. Last week I tried to start it and the battery was too weak to cause the engine to turn over, so I charged the battery w/ my trickle charger. Today I reinstalled the battery and observed the following: I could start the bike with the choke control turned all the way 'on'. Normally I wait until RPMs hit 3000, then turn it off. However after about 20 minutes of the bike idling with the choke control on, it still was only at about 2k. I kept trying to turn off the choke control at 2k, but the engine would die. Finally it got up to 3k, but still whenever I turned off the choke control, the engine would die. -I experimented with revving the engine as I let out the choke control. If the choke control was still too far 'on', revving caused the engine to die. I finally managed to start revving at the perfect time when the choke control was almost off, finish turning the choke control off, and maintain the engine running by opening the throttle. However once I stopped applying gas the engine would die. I was even able to ride around the parking lot, provided that I kept the throttle open the whole time and regulated my speed with the clutch. -When I finally figured out how to turn off the clutch control and keep the engine running by keeping the throttle open, there was a 'popping' sound now and then coming from the tail pipe. This would happen only when I had the throttle open, and the choke control off. Any ideas on what the issue is, and what I should do? I'm guessing it has something to do with my failing to prep the bike for the long period of not being used. Thanks, Elliot [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My guess is that the pilot circuit/jet in the carb is clogged. These modern fuels we use are horrible for motorcycle carbs. The gas can clog up a carb after sitting as little as a week. If they sit a month you are almost guaranteed they will be clogged. Even with products like Stabil, they help but don't totally solve the problem. The prevention is to either run the bike with the petcock off until the bowl drains, drain the bowl manually, or run the bike once a week. Ryan Phoenix, AZ symme7ry wrote:

> > > Hi folks. I last rode my 2005 KLR650 in September. It has been sitting > in a parking garage (between 40 and 60 degrees F) since then. I didn't > 'prep' it for the winter by removing the gas or anything else. > > Last week I tried to start it and the battery was too weak to cause the > engine to turn over, so I charged the battery w/ my trickle charger. > > Today I reinstalled the battery and observed the following: > > I could start the bike with the choke control turned all the way 'on'. > Normally I wait until RPMs hit 3000, then turn it off. However after > about 20 minutes of the bike idling with the choke control on, it still > was only at about 2k. I kept trying to turn off the choke control at 2k, > but the engine would die. Finally it got up to 3k, but still whenever I > turned off the choke control, the engine would die. > > -I experimented with revving the engine as I let out the choke control. > If the choke control was still too far 'on', revving caused the engine > to die. I finally managed to start revving at the perfect time when the > choke control was almost off, finish turning the choke control off, and > maintain the engine running by opening the throttle. However once I > stopped applying gas the engine would die. I was even able to ride > around the parking lot, provided that I kept the throttle open the whole > time and regulated my speed with the clutch. > > -When I finally figured out how to turn off the clutch control and keep > the engine running by keeping the throttle open, there was a 'popping' > sound now and then coming from the tail pipe. This would happen only > when I had the throttle open, and the choke control off. > > Any ideas on what the issue is, and what I should do? I'm guessing it > has something to do with my failing to prep the bike for the long period > of not being used. > > Thanks, > Elliot > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com> > Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5708 - Release Date: 03/27/13 >

Don't know about the insurance thing but every time I see your posts I worry about those dachshunds' paws getting chaffed after running in the desert. Bogdan, who could repost you to PITA

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