Wilsons Sandbox

If you have this many problems with your period, perhaps some-one can refer you to a local gynaecologist. DC DC

On 11/03/2013 19:07, mark ward wrote: > Some say use 3-4ft,,,&,,,come,,,out,,,,by,,,rear,,,tire > > Would,,,,under,,,,the,,,seat,,,,near,,,,rear,,,be,,,fine? > > I,,would,,,,think,,,,near,,,,the,,,tire,,,,,Water,,,could,,,,spray,,,Up,,,and,,,,then,,,have,,,same,,,issue > > > Note,,My,,,space,,,and,,,period,,,keys,,,at,,,times,,,,locking > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > - [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Mon, 11 Mar 2013 18:07:10 -0700 (PDT) mark ward writes:

> Some say use 3-4ft,,,&,,,come,,,out,,,,by,,,rear,,,tire > > Would,,,,under,,,,the,,,seat,,,,near,,,,rear,,,be,,,fine? > >

I,,would,,,,think,,,,near,,,,the,,,tire,,,,,Water,,,could,,,,spray,,,Up,, ,and,,,,then,,,have,,,same,,,issue

> > > Note,,My,,,space,,,and,,,period,,,keys,,,at,,,times,,,,locking

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Mark, I've heard the Gen II KLRs have the vent hose routed beneath the seat. Still needs the Tee mod in many people's opinions. I don't think it matters where you route it as long as you have one up and one down. It needs to be able to drain and not into the carb. Suggest you cut the end of the vent hose at an angle and some think you should also split the end to keep water from covering the end. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . ____________________________________________________________ Brand New iPads: $33.93 Celebrate 2013 w/ a new iPad for as low as $33.93. Limit one/customer! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/513e9573c911a15736c92st01vuc

Is the T-mod for 08+ and older models or is it just for one or the other? Is there a good write up out there?

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > Mark, > > I've heard the Gen II KLRs have the vent hose routed beneath the seat. > Still needs the Tee mod in many people's opinions. > > I don't think it matters where you route it as long as you have one up > and one down. It needs to be able to drain and not into the carb. > > Suggest you cut the end of the vent hose at an angle and some think you > should also split the end to keep water from covering the end. >

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Skypilot" wrote:

> > Is the T-mod for 08+ and older models or is it just for one or the other? Is there a good write up out there?

Take a look here: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Skypilot" wrote:

> > Is the T-mod for 08+ and older models or is it just for one or the other? Is there a good write up out there?

Take a look here: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/

Dear Mr. Critchley, I am writing to inform you that you now owe me one new keyboard, as your comment caused me to spit coffee all over the one I have now. Sincerely, -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "D Critchley" To: "List KLR" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 6:58:20 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] T-mod? If you have this many problems with your period, perhaps some-one can refer you to a local gynaecologist. DC DC On 11/03/2013 19:07, mark ward wrote: > Some say use 3-4ft,,,&,,,come,,,out,,,,by,,,rear,,,tire > > Would,,,,under,,,,the,,,seat,,,,near,,,,rear,,,be,,,fine? > > I,,would,,,,think,,,,near,,,,the,,,tire,,,,,Water,,,could,,,,spray,,,Up,,,and,,,,then,,,have,,,same,,,issue > > > Note,,My,,,space,,,and,,,period,,,keys,,,at,,,times,,,,locking > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > - [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You may borrow my keyboard any time you want to come up here for an hour or two. DC DC

On 12/03/2013 10:11, Jeff Khoury wrote: > Dear Mr. Critchley, > > I am writing to inform you that you now owe me one new keyboard, as your comment caused me to spit coffee all over the one I have now. > > Sincerely, > > -Jeff Khoury > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "D Critchley" > > > > > > > If you have this many problems with your period, perhaps some-one can > refer you to a local gynaecologist. > DC > > DC > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Two months ago there was some discussion on the Forum about converting to a Mikuni direct pull carb. Well here is the update: The full project report is located on a blog at: http://tinyurl.com/a7u255c http://tinyurl.com/a7u255c> The short version: I picked up a Mikuni VM38 carb, throttle assembly, and cable from Ebay. I beleive this was part of an old White Bros. kit that originally included the above plus a K&N filter and aftermarket exhaust. I didn't get the last two, but the carb and throttle stuff looked unused. Cutting to the chase, I installed the carb with some modifications to the carb to fit the OEM spacings and vacuum requirements of the KLR. The result, I have a very clean conversion, a much easier and robust choke mechanism, and yes, a much more responsive carbuerator. I don't know if I gained much power (anyone aware of a simple HP mod for a KLR???), but I like the simplicity of the Mikuni and the increased accesiblity to the carb. After my most recent jet change, the lady did crank up to almost 90 mph(indicated) without much effort. Bike specs: Stock engine 28,000 miles w/dohicky and torsion spring, completly stock intake and exhaust, 16 tooth counter sprocket. Wheatwacker mod with a very large wind screen and I'm over 260 and 6'4" 3,500' elev, 45 degand 15 mph cross wind. Very smooth transition up through the RPMs and throttle settings. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> , "RonH" wrote:

> > Ok, so with the discussion about awakening the bottom end with a

Mikuni 38, I picked up a carb and throttle/cable assembly off of Ebay for a good price. Supposedly came off a KLR. Looks to be in very good shape. Haven't checked the jet sizes as yet and it will be a while before I install it. Same carb as on my old KDX400. Lots easier to change jets and adjust the needle.

> > Bunch of winter wood and house honey-dos before I tackle the winter

mainentance list 2000 bike - repair stripped drain plug, check fork seal weep, install a pair of 10 watt LED driving lights, replace counter shaft seal, o-ring, and collar (intermittent minor leak all last year), probably check suspension/steering head bearings. 2004 backup bike needs fork seal work. The 2000 is the major trip bike with full Ricor treatment, relocated footpegs, and all the other typical upgrades.

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