rope knots & carabiners, cheap & strong (non klr, kind of)

[mark ward]

Hey Digger & Bryan Digger: I found "Animated knots. com" about 10 days ago VERY cool, Even the grand kids (5 & 8.5) love it. Thanks Bryan: "Not rated" I found, Static ropes Etc. in some climbing stores, The cord was not rated on the reel or package yet in Home depot, even twine was 12# To ALL: Now the good stuff. In the climbing gear store's, (web) even skinny 5mm cord is about 1500# strength. CARABINERS: The ones I found in the past at Home depot & Sorting good stores average, $3.50 and WEAK Only 75# In the CLIMBING stores, $6. & OVER 4,000lbs (Locking Carabiners $8-9.50) so you can tie down your gear or camping set up etc with out concern of breakage of the carabiner or roap. ( or pull a log/TREE out of your path, as I have had to do.) Mountain on one-side DROOOOOP OOOOOFF!!! on the other, There was NO going around, and HARD to roll the klr back down the hill to turn around, so removing the fallen tree was easyest. Mark (West Michigan)

--- On Tue, 1/29/13, fw189uhu wrote: From: fw189uhu Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Engineer Question, (non klr, kind of) To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, January 29, 2013, 6:50 AM Just catching up after the flu, etc., and saw Bryan's very interesting suggestions. In case you're not familiar with the knots he describes, go to www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php to see animations of how to tie various knots. Pretty cool website, and it's a lot easier to understand how various knots are tied from watching an animation compared to a simple photo or drawing. Digger --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bryanonfire" wrote: > > > > > Another source of information is to search "river rescue Z drag." Pulling a boat off a rock is probably more like pulling a motorcycle out of a deep ditch than hauling someone out of a crevasse. Solid anchors and good equipment are a must, you'll want some 1" tubular webbing for anchoring to trees or rocks as well as the pullys, rope, and caribiners. > > One thing a lot of drawings don't show, but it could save you from serious injury: visualize where the rope and pullys will go if any point fails. Some of it could come your way. Tie a jacket or some other large, soft object to that section of the drag system to slow it down as it flies your way. > > I carry this stuff on most of my whitewater river trips and it's too bulky and heavy to justify carrying it on a solo motorcycle trip, but no worse than a couple of come-alongs and a lot more versatile. Split up among two or three riders it would probably be worth taking if you were going into really rough terrain. For most motorcycle situations 20 - 30 feet of 1" tubular webbing and a lot of grunt work would probablly be a better choice: low bulk, super strong. > > It will all be useless if you don't know how to tie (and apply) the right knots: prussik and figure 8 at minimum, and possibly self - equalizing anchors depending on your anchor options. > > Mark is correct, hardware store stuff is not rated and you never know what kind of quality (or lack thereof) you'll get. Plus the rope you get at the local hardware store will stretch way too much, you'll want a static rope for this job. > > Bryan [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[mark ward]

Hey I have to push the lever TIGHTLY to the far left (ON) to start. The Clymer, (pg 64, figure 62) says to check adjustment, check for 2-3mm of cable housing movement where the cable housing enters the adjuster. I would think that meens where the cable enters the adjuster to the right of the NUT "A" as pointed to. MY, cable shaft comes out of the lever housing (Left of the nut & threads) The threaded & smooth shaft, to the LEFT of "B" is what moves. Is that the proper place of movement? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Michael Martin]

Hi Mark, Yes, the movement to check is at "A". With your left hand, hold the adjuster nut so it can't move and with your right hand grab the cable housing and move it left-to-right. Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ________________________________ From: mark ward To: List KLR DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 4:37 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Choke adjustment? Hey I have to push the lever TIGHTLY to the far left (ON) to start. The Clymer, (pg 64, figure 62) says to check adjustment, check for 2-3mm of cable housing movement where the cable housing enters the adjuster. I would think that meens where the cable enters the adjuster to the right of the NUT "A" as pointed to. MY, cable shaft comes out of the lever housing (Left of the nut & threads) The threaded & smooth shaft, to the LEFT of "B" is what moves. Is that the proper place of movement? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[mark ward]

Should it move at all at the left point beyond the threads where it goes into the lever assembly?

--- On Tue, 1/29/13, Michael Martin wrote: From: Michael Martin Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Choke adjustment? To: "mark ward" , "List KLR" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Tuesday, January 29, 2013, 10:26 PM Hi Mark, Yes, the movement to check is at "A". With your left hand, hold the adjuster nut so it can't move and with your right hand grab the cable housing and move it left-to-right. Mike Martin, Louisville, KY From: mark ward To: List KLR DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 4:37 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Choke adjustment? Hey I have to push the lever TIGHTLY to the far left (ON) to start. The Clymer, (pg 64, figure 62) says to check adjustment, check for 2-3mm of cable housing movement where the cable housing enters the adjuster. I would think that meens where the cable enters the adjuster to the right of the NUT "A" as pointed to. MY, cable shaft comes out of the lever housing (Left of the nut & threads) The threaded & smooth shaft, to the LEFT of "B" is what moves. Is that the proper place of movement? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]