Wilsons Sandbox

You don t need to remove the wheel to move your fork tubes in the triple clamps. You can do one at a time. Just loosen the pinch bolts, then if the tube doesn t move freely, you can rotate the tube in the clamp while moving it up or down. Tighten the pinch bolts to factory torque and you re done. It is an easy job. If your fork tubes are not bent, moving them around shouldn t effect any wheel alignment. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: snowcrash007 Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 9:38 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] front fork adjustment and wheel alignment gen 1 Any tips on how to best raise the front fork clamps to stock height and ensure the wheel remains aligned? I have been reading a couple diff ways like removing the wheel and then moving one fork at a time or loosen both and then try to align the wheel. Whats the best way? Crash [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

People used to ask me why I put a center stand on my last KLR, and it was for reasons just like this. Otherwise you can use a motocross type lift stand to get the front end off the ground. A stand of some sort will make jobs like this a lot easier. Ryan Phoenix, AZ Fred Hink wrote:

> > > You don t need to remove the wheel to move your fork tubes in the triple > clamps. You can do one at a time. Just loosen the pinch bolts, then if > the tube doesn t move freely, you can rotate the tube in the clamp while > moving it up or down. Tighten the pinch bolts to factory torque and > you re done. It is an easy job. If your fork tubes are not bent, moving > them around shouldn t effect any wheel alignment. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > From: snowcrash007 > Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 9:38 AM > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] front fork adjustment and wheel alignment gen 1 > > Any tips on how to best raise the front fork clamps to stock height and > ensure the wheel remains aligned? I have been reading a couple diff ways > like removing the wheel and then moving one fork at a time or loosen > both and then try to align the wheel. Whats the best way? > > Crash > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com> > Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2638/5532 - Release Date: 01/14/13 >

Ha, that is why I put Aluminum panniers on mine. I have had the bike set on a pannier a half dozen times for tire issues in the woods. I just cut a block of wood for home although I have a Motocross stand too. The stand isnt made for that kind of weight

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Desert Datsuns wrote: > > People used to ask me why I put a center stand on my last KLR, and it > was for reasons just like this. Otherwise you can use a motocross type > lift stand to get the front end off the ground. A stand of some sort > will make jobs like this a lot easier. > Ryan > Phoenix

I use the ADJUSTABLE leg from an Aluminum crutch. ($3.) Very light. (velcro-straped to the grip on mmy pelican-case.) one size for the rear, one size for the front, ......Full length as a nice little club.

--- On Tue, 1/15/13, Skypilot wrote: From: Skypilot Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: front fork adjustment and wheel alignment gen 1 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 1:24 PM Ha, that is why I put Aluminum panniers on mine. I have had the bike set on a pannier a half dozen times for tire issues in the woods. I just cut a block of wood for home although I have a Motocross stand too. The stand isnt made for that kind of weight --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Desert Datsuns wrote: > > People used to ask me why I put a center stand on my last KLR, and it > was for reasons just like this. Otherwise you can use a motocross type > lift stand to get the front end off the ground. A stand of some sort > will make jobs like this a lot easier. > Ryan > Phoenix [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a stick, maybe 1.5x1.5x14". There is a picture in the files section I think. It is a recycled bit of 2x4 I think. If I need to oil the chain I put the bike on the side stand and wedge the stick under the right rear of the swing arm to hold up the back up. The 3 points of contact become the front wheel, the side stand and the stick. Anything I can't do with the stick I do with the pannier. Anything I cant do with the pannier I do with the ,,,, wait, there isnt anything. The stick has a partial wedge cut on one end, see sort of image below. Cut end off at 45 degrees leaving a 1/4 inch still flat and you get the picture. The wedge can be up or down to hold the back wheel up. To break beads I put the wedge end on the tire by the rim while the rim is laying on a few sticks and either smack it with a rock or use a branch to pry down on it. I have some vary fancy tire irons that scissor together to break beads too. The stick works better. I like my stick. It aint pretty but on the rallies I do there is too much dirt, dust or mud to be pretty __________________________________________ | \ | \ | | --------------------------------------------- From: mark ward [mailto:nomad59@...] Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 8:59 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; Eckert, Christopher (CTO Service Delivery) Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: front fork adjustment and wheel alignment gen 1 I use the ADJUSTABLE leg from an Aluminum crutch. ($3.) Very light. (velcro-straped to the grip on mmy pelican-case.) one size for the rear, one size for the front, ......Full length as a nice little club. ************************************************************ This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies. ************************************************************

Aluminum panniers are not necessary. My Givi E21s are just the right size for tire repairs. Or I can use my MP Quik-Jack (no longer available, sadly, but predictably). At home, I use the ATV lift, cheaper and more useful than a center stand. On the road or trail, I have never yet failed to find a suitable prop, either in my gear or lying around.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Skypilot" wrote: > > Ha, that is why I put Aluminum panniers on mine. I have had the bike set on a pannier a half dozen times for tire issues in the woods. I just cut a block of wood for home although I have a Motocross stand too. The stand isnt made for that kind of weight > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Desert Datsuns wrote: > > > > People used to ask me why I put a center stand on my last KLR, and it > > was for reasons just like this. Otherwise you can use a motocross type > > lift stand to get the front end off the ground. A stand of some sort > > will make jobs like this a lot easier. > > Ryan > > Phoenix >

Props, My "highway pegs" I MODIFIED off the engine gaurd, 2.5 inchs Out and 2.5WIDER spread, And by removing 2 screws I can use it for the front or rear tire, depending not only where on the KLR but what part of the MODIEFIED bar. YA! A KLR rider modifing something. But the Crutch leg is VERY nice, adjust about 1 inch incriments.

--- On Tue, 1/15/13, Jud wrote: From: Jud Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: front fork adjustment and wheel alignment gen 1 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, January 15, 2013, 11:38 PM Aluminum panniers are not necessary. My Givi E21s are just the right size for tire repairs. Or I can use my MP Quik-Jack (no longer available, sadly, but predictably). At home, I use the ATV lift, cheaper and more useful than a center stand. On the road or trail, I have never yet failed to find a suitable prop, either in my gear or lying around. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Skypilot" wrote: > > Ha, that is why I put Aluminum panniers on mine. I have had the bike set on a pannier a half dozen times for tire issues in the woods. I just cut a block of wood for home although I have a Motocross stand too. The stand isnt made for that kind of weight > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Desert Datsuns wrote: > > > > People used to ask me why I put a center stand on my last KLR, and it > > was for reasons just like this. Otherwise you can use a motocross type > > lift stand to get the front end off the ground. A stand of some sort > > will make jobs like this a lot easier. > > Ryan > > Phoenix > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Has anybody got a picture of this? From: John Biccum [mailto:johnbiccum@...] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 7:55 AM To: Eckert, Christopher (CTO Service Delivery); DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: front fork adjustment and wheel alignment gen 1 The Australian version of the Kawasaki Super Sherpa has kickstands on BOTH sides of the bike. Use both kickstands concurrently and they function much like center stand. The two kickstands are mirror-images of one another. ************************************************************ This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies. ************************************************************

The Australian version of the Kawasaki Super Sherpa has kickstands on BOTH sides of the bike. Use both kickstands concurrently and they function much like center stand. The two kickstands are mirror-images of one another. This approach seems so logical I wonder why it has not become more common. -----Original Message----- From: "Eckert, Christopher (CTO Service Delivery)" Sent: 1/ 15/ 2013 12:01 To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: front fork adjustment and wheel alignment gen 1 I have a stick, maybe 1.5x1.5x14". There is a picture in the files section I think. It is a recycled bit of 2x4 I think. If I need to oil the chain I put the bike on the side stand and wedge the stick under the right rear of the swing arm to hold up the back up. The 3 points of contact become the front wheel, the side stand and the stick. Anything I can't do with the stick I do with the pannier. Anything I cant do with the pannier I do with the ,,,, wait, there isnt anything. The stick has a partial wedge cut on one end, see sort of image below. Cut end off at 45 degrees leaving a 1/4 inch still flat and you get the picture. The wedge can be up or down to hold the back wheel up. To break beads I put the wedge end on the tire by the rim while the rim is laying on a few sticks and either smack it with a rock or use a branch to pry down on it. I have some vary fancy tire irons that scissor together to break beads too. The stick works better. I like my stick. It aint pretty but on the rallies I do there is too much dirt, dust or mud to be pretty __________________________________________ | \ | \ | | --------------------------------------------- From: mark ward [mailto:nomad59@...] Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 8:59 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; Eckert, Christopher (CTO Service Delivery) Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: front fork adjustment and wheel alignment gen 1 I use the ADJUSTABLE leg from an Aluminum crutch. ($3.) Very light. (velcro-straped to the grip on mmy pelican-case.) one size for the rear, one size for the front, ......Full length as a nice little club. ************************************************************ This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies. ************************************************************ [The entire original message is not included.] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]