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voltage regulator
Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2001 11:46 pm
by John Huber
Hey group,
I need some help with a blown headlight fuse problem. I have consulted a
few different people about why a bike would blow fuses. They say it is
either a voltage regulator, or a short somewhere. Is there any particular
places to start looking for a short, or is there any way to test the
regulator, without taking it to a shop? Any help will be greatly
appreciated. I do know that the fuse gets extremely hot after I replace it
and let the bike run for a minute or so. Almost like it is getting too much
juice. Just wondering. I don't want to pay $150 for a new regulator. But
if I have to, I guess I will, but do not want to.
John
A7
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voltage regulator
Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2001 12:19 am
by RM
On Mon, 9 Jul 2001, John Huber wrote:
>either a voltage regulator, or a short somewhere. Is there any
>particular places to start looking for a short, or is there any way to
>test the regulator, without taking it to a shop?
Put a voltmeter across the battery and then start the bike and rev it. If
the voltage does not exceed 14.8 volts or so then your problem is
somewhere other than the regulator. An internal short in the regulator
would blow the main fuse, not the headlamp fuse.
Also, check to make sure that both headlamp filaments aren't somehow
getting activated at the same time. When switching from low to high-beam,
there should be a distinct change in your headlight pattern. The
high-beam should "replace" the low-beam's illumination pattern, not add to
it. Did that make sense?
RM
voltage regulator
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2003 12:52 pm
by kend650
Has anyone had problems with their klr650 voltage regulator? I just
replaced my battery and starter solenoid, and it still only has enough
juice to turn the neutral idiot lite green. Does anyone know how to
test the voltage regulator?
Thanks for any help, or ideas!!
Ken
Scottsdale, AZ
voltage regulator
Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2003 1:43 pm
by Arden Kysely
When I had my A1, the regulator/rectifier toasted itself, partially
melting the connector and threatening to do a China syndrome to the
rear inner fender. It was pretty obvious that it needed replacement,
so I didn't bother with testing it. I think the manual does have the
tests outlined, though. Not sure what kind of equipment you need.
Did your new battery get a full, deep charge before you put it in the
bike? If not, and if you're just taking short rides, it may never get
a complete charge. Did you check the voltage on the battery? Did you
check for other things that might be draining it while it sits in the
bike (e.g. parking light)?
__Arden
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "kend650" wrote:
> Has anyone had problems with their klr650 voltage regulator? I
just
> replaced my battery and starter solenoid, and it still only has
enough
> juice to turn the neutral idiot lite green. Does anyone know how to
> test the voltage regulator?
>
> Thanks for any help, or ideas!!
>
> Ken
> Scottsdale, AZ
voltage regulator
Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2003 9:02 am
by Paul
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "kend650" wrote:
> Has anyone had problems with their klr650 voltage regulator? I
just
> replaced my battery and starter solenoid, and it still only has
enough
> juice to turn the neutral idiot lite green. Does anyone know how
to
> test the voltage regulator?
>
> Thanks for any help, or ideas!!
>
> Ken
> Scottsdale, AZ
sounds like a prob i had with a friends bike, his neutral came on
but couldnt fire the bike (even with a new battery)
turned out was a bad ground on the wiring to the fuses.
check all the main contacts from the battery to the solinoid (clean
replace etc) use a piece of wire with a couple of bullet or spade
connectors to temp jump the fuses and see what your powers like.
if your battery is showing full charge you can bypass the regulator
just for the purpose of checking lights and power flow (dont run or
try to start the engine though)
if you get good power past the regulator then you prob have a bad
one. a fully charged battery should allow you the lights horn etc
without the engine running, the regulater just convers the power
flow to the voltage needed to charge and run the bike while the
engine is running.
paul
A16
voltage regulator
Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 3:18 pm
by Barry Spice
Does anyone have a voltage regulator that they wouldn't mind parting
out?
Barry Spice
Catonsville, Md
voltage regulator
Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:41 am
by Glenn
Hi All,
Looking at the circuit for the voltage regulator on my bike, there are 6 leads.
There are 3 from the alternator-Yellow.
One for the battery positive-White
One for the battery negative-Black/Yellow
and finally a Brown/White wire that has an ignition switched battery positive supplied from a Brown wire via the ignition ON position.
My question is :-
What is the purpose of the Brown/White wire as a switched positive to the regulator via the ignition?
Has anyone got an internal wiring diagram or schematic of the older 6 wire regulator.
Even though mine is the Australian "C" model it doesn't vary that much from other models.
Regards Glenn
voltage regulator
Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:37 am
by Dean Wegner
My understanding of the 6th wire which is a switched hot, is that it
is a voltage sense wire which tells the regulator the voltage at the
battery without losses due to the current load of all the other
running components.
Allows the regulator to correct for the other loads and provide the
correct charging voltage to the battery.
Summary schematics of regulator rectifiers can be found. I've been
chasing the question of the 6th wire for a '91 VX800 with charging
problems. I would expect all of the 6 wire regulators to work the
same. When you find a typical schematic for one, that will probably
be the best you can find and it will be good enough to tell you what
they do.
Dean Wegner
'03 KLR650 and a bunch of others.
On 9/26/12, Glenn wrote:
> Hi All,
> Looking at the circuit for the voltage regulator on my bike, there are 6
> leads.
> There are 3 from the alternator-Yellow.
> One for the battery positive-White
> One for the battery negative-Black/Yellow
> and finally a Brown/White wire that has an ignition switched battery
> positive supplied from a Brown wire via the ignition ON position.
> My question is :-
> What is the purpose of the Brown/White wire as a switched positive to the
> regulator via the ignition?
>
> Has anyone got an internal wiring diagram or schematic of the older 6 wire
> regulator.
>
> Even though mine is the Australian "C" model it doesn't vary that much from
> other models.
>
> Regards Glenn
>
>
voltage regulator
Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:44 pm
by Glenn Sturley
Hello All,
Thanks for the reply Dean.
I thought that was what the extra lead was and I have since located an internal schematic of the regulator.
The Br/W lead is the Monitor or sensor input to the control circuit as you described.
All solved.
Cheers
Glenn
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voltage regulator
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:50 pm
by tlz4u@aol.com
Hi to all,
If your KLR is consistantly over charging your battery, I have come
up with a modification that has reduced this tendancy, and applied it to
both of my motorcycles.
First, much of the overcharging of the battery is due to the fact
that the battery sense circuit (brown and white wire) extends from the battery
source to the ignition switch, and back to the voltage regulater. This
circuit is made of tiny gauge wire, and has several contact points in it (the
ignition switch is one), and is quite long. This results in a voltage drop
as seen by the regulator. My bike tested out at slightly over 1/2 volt
drop. This causes the regulater to sense that the battery is 1/2 volt lower
than it actually is, and it happily charges away as it was designed too,
trying to make up the difference.
My solution is to install a relay. The original sense line is used to
activate the coil on the relay, turning it on when the ignition is "on". A
seperate, (large gauge wire) is run from the battery positive terminal to
the common terminal of the relay. The normally open terminal of the relay
is now connected to the original "sense" (brown and white wire) line going
into the regulater. This allows the regulater to sense the real battery
voltage, without the previously mentioned voltage drop. The relay acts as a
switch, preventing the regulater from draining the battery when the bike is
not in use.
I made this modification (several years ago) to my '83 'wing which
see's many miles at higher speeds, and it has dramatically decreased the
water loss on trips,and has increased the life of it's battery! I just
recently made this modification to my '02 KLR, and expect the same results.
Bob Brewer
2002 KLR
1983 GL1100
etc., etc.
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