On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 05:14:37 -0000 "Dominick"
writes:
> Howdy gents,
>
> I just wanted to first off say thanks to this forum I recently got
> the balls to open up my engine for the first time. After my
> (2009/12,000M) bike stopped running, with symptoms like losing sig.
> drops in rpms when revving above 3rpm and just stalling whenever
> trying to ride it, sometimes sounding like it wasn't getting enough
> gas and sometimes not enough air.... I tried all the easy
> suggestions from this forum, changing my oil, to changing my spark
> plug, to pulling off my carb and inspecting /cleaning it thoroughly
> with no results. Which to someone with no mechanical background
> seemed like a feat...then... Someone mentioned the next step was to
> check my valve tolerances. I finally bought the clymer manual and
> gauges to check my valve tolerances and with much hesitation pulled
> the top off my engine case and started to set to top dead center
> only to realize that I was way out of time and i noticed some metal
> shavings from when it jumped time....Even though this sucks, it was
> such a great feeling to be able to finally see/diagnosis the problem
> myself! So thanks for that!!! I couldnt have done it without this
> forum, ( well...and youtube) So I checked my tensioner which was at
> its maximum setting to provide the most tension... And now I am at a
> loss, since the kawasaki dealership explained that these chains very
> rarely stretch and it probably wasn't the chain guides either. Their
> suggestion was that maybe my chain tensioner was bad( bad spring?).
> In order for me to further diagnose I would have to open the bottom
> half of the engine correct? Which I was warned pretty adamantly was
> NO job for an amateur like myself. Especially since my tool set is
> pretty limited too.
>
> Any advice regarding the extent of a job like this, or if anyone has
> any extensive knowledge about timing chain problems I would greatly
> appreciate it!
>
> Thanks in advance and sorry if this is a redundant thread already
> covered.
>
> Dominick
> Ft. Bragg, NC
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Dominick,
I'm gonna make a guess your timing didn't jump much if it jumped at all.
The KLR engine is an interference engine meaning the valves will hit the
pistons if out of time. That results in bent valves usually. I too have
heard the chain rarely stretches and would guess the cam chain guides are
worn before the chain is worn.
I'm wondering if when you removed the cam chain tensioner you removed the
center plug and spring before removing the two M6, 10mm headed bolts
holding the tensioner to the cylinder. If you didn't, the tensioner
would extend under spring pressure to it's full length.
The engine is a four stroke cycle engine meaning the crankshaft must turn
two complete revolutions for each single rotation of a camshaft. I'm
wondering if you need to rotate the crankshaft one more revolution to get
the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. NOTE***
Remember to reinstall the cam chain tensioner if you are going to rotate
the engine.
What did the metal shavings look like and where exactly did you find
them?
Here are some instructions from Wymanwinn on another KLR site. I think
if you follow them you can verify your cams are in or out of time.
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Cam Installation/Timing Instructions
-make certain the Lazy T and its timing mark are lined up in the upper
window...
-pull the cam chain up and keep tight (you may need to rock the crank CW
and CCW to get the cam chain to free up)
-install the exhaust cam onto the chain and onto the exhaust journals so
the arrow faces forward and the two marks align with the valve cover
gasket surface
-install only the right side (smaller) exhaust cam journal cap (note the
direction arrow), just snug the bolts
-keeping the cam chain tight and NOT rotating the crank, install the
right side intake cam onto the chain and journals so its arrow is
pointing forward and opposite mark align with the valve cover gasket
surface
-install the right side intake (smaller) cam journal cap (note the
direction arrow) , just snug the bolts.
-now insert your right index finger into the cam chain tunnel pushing on
the chain guide to keep the cam chain tight and rotate the crank with
your left hand and with a 19mm deep socket CCW until both cam gear arrows
and opposite marks align with the valve cover mating surface and confirm
the Lazy T mark is in the upper window in the correct position...if not,
recheck your cam chain to gear positions (there may be some minor
deviations from exactly being lined up remember the crank turns twice as
fast as the cams
-if everything is timed properly, without moving the cams, install the
cam chain tensioner body (69in/lbs) and the cam chain tensioner spring,
copper washer and retainer (12ft/lbs)
-install the cam chain guide, 55in/lbs on the small bolt with blue
loctite, 69in/lbs on the long bolts
-install the left side cam journal caps and oil feed tube BY HAND, NO
tools to screw the bolts COMPLETELY down...making certain the caps
properly seat onto the dowels and cams...DO NOT FORCE FIT THESE CAPS
torque the cam cap bolts to 100in/lbs
-reconfirm the cam timing one last time...
-reinstall the valve cover, 55in/lbs
-install starter/motor ground, 69in/lbs
-install the carb, enricher valve, throttle cables, vent tube...
-install upper motor mounts, 18ft/lbs (note, pre-08 the harness runs
through the mount plates, 08+ to the left)
-install exhaust header with new crush gasket, 15ft/lbs on acorn nuts
FIRST, 18ft/lbs on middle hanger bolt, 15ft/lbs on muffler to header pipe
pinch bolt
-install fuel tank and connect related hoses
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Hope this is helpful for you. Make sure you only turn the crankshaft in
a counterclockwise direction. That keeps the valve train moving in the
correct direction as it will when the engine is running.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650
.
.
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