Page 1 of 1
help - a14 not shifting when warm
Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:08 am
by argonaut10
I'm still stumped as to this problem. My KLR650 A14 dual-sport recently had a harder time finding N when warmed (this occurred over many months this Spring). After coming off the highway a few weeks ago, downshifting to 1st, I was unable to move out of first gear to proceed through the light. Once cooled I was able to shift gears. What is the issue with my transmission/clutch and why does it only occur when warm?
Friction plates in spec for thickness
Steel spacers in spec for thickness
Warp not measured yet
No visible cracks/imperfections to the base unit (basket, side cover, etc.)
(See pictures in:
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92116&highlight=clutch+release
Items to note in pictures:
Clutch basket (surround) has noticeable grooves on some channels IMAG0078
Nut holding the basket is partially crushed on hub previous owner? - IMAG0076
Friction plates are smooth and dark IMAG0075
Flaky coatings on springs IMAG0069
Clutch release lever (that operates hub to relieve clutch pressure to plates) is partially worn but still interacts with hub IMAG0051
help - a14 not shifting when warm
Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:29 am
by Jeff Khoury
I know this sounds strange... but did you recently switch to a different type of oil?
I notice on my bike that when my oil is older, neutral is harder to find and shifting is a bit "clunkier". When the engine is cold it's not a problem, but after it heats up it becomes more apparent. I did an oil change on the road and could not obtain my regular oil one time and the "problem" was worse... to the point that in order to actually get into neutral I had to kill the engine and then find neutral. And once again, this was only when it was hot.
A fresh oil change and it was back to feeling like "buttah" again.
This was observed at around 20,000 miles in a KLR that has been strictly maintained with only full synth every 3,000 miles its entire life, so I don't think the probability of wear being the problem was very high.
-Jeff Khoury
From: "argonaut10"
To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 7:07:47 AM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] HELP - A14 Not Shifting When Warm
I'm still stumped as to this problem. My KLR650 A14 dual-sport recently had a harder time finding N when warmed (this occurred over many months this Spring). After coming off the highway a few weeks ago, downshifting to 1st, I was unable to move out of first gear to proceed through the light. Once cooled I was able to shift gears. What is the issue with my transmission/clutch and why does it only occur when warm?
Friction plates in spec for thickness
Steel spacers in spec for thickness
Warp not measured yet
No visible cracks/imperfections to the base unit (basket, side cover, etc.)
(See pictures in:
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=92116&highlight=clutch+release
Items to note in pictures:
Clutch basket (surround) has noticeable grooves on some channels IMAG0078
Nut holding the basket is partially crushed on hub previous owner? - IMAG0076
Friction plates are smooth and dark IMAG0075
Flaky coatings on springs IMAG0069
Clutch release lever (that operates hub to relieve clutch pressure to plates) is partially worn but still interacts with hub IMAG0051
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
new? chain lube
Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 10:45 am
by Marc
Most of my bikes I change the chain and sprockets at around 16k. Most times the
chain and sprockets are still serviceable, but I tend to err on the caution side
as I would rather not have chain issues. (had a chain come off my old 1968 Honda
350 and rip my leg open when I was a teen- wasn't fun- I do miss that bike
though).
Marc
________________________________
From: Jud
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, June 16, 2011 8:45:51 AM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: NEW? Chain lube
How long do your chains last? That stuff has recently become more readily
available, and I just bought a can. But there doesn't seem to be any chain life
data on it, even anecdotal, as there is for WD40.
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Marc wrote:
>
> I use only Dupont chain lube. It stay put, lasts for a long time and does the
> job. That said, I agree that cleaning is an important step.
>
> M
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jeff Khoury
> To: Marc
> Cc: List KLR DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wed, June 15, 2011 3:47:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NEW? Chain lube
>
>
> I use two chain lubes, depending on application.
>
> I always clean with WD-40, then:
>
> Dry/Dusty/General use: 90w-140 gear oil, I use a 3-in-1 household oil bottle
> repurposed to apply it. Just a drop on each o-ring and on a couple of rollers.
>
> I avoid anything sticky so dirt and stuff doesn't make a gritty paste.
>
> Wet weather: a light coat of waterproof marine grease - you know... the sticky
> blue stuff.
>
> Both of these lubes are dirt cheap compared to the stuff sold at the bike shop
> and it seems to work at least as well.
>
> I get excellent life out of my chains. Frankly, I think the cleaning part is
> just as, if not more important than the lubing part when we're talking about
> sealed chains.
>
>
> -Jeff Khoury
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: "Jeff Khoury"
> To: "Marc"
> Cc: "List KLR" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 12:25:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NEW? Chain lube
>
>
> The folks over at Wired Mag ran a bit of it through a spectrometer. Here are
>the
>
> results:
>
>
>
http://www.wired.com/science/discoveries/magazine/17-05/st_whatsinside
>
> -Jeff Khoury
>
> From: "Marc"
> To: "List KLR" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 12:33:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] NEW? Chain lube
>
> WD40 is an oil. A light one but an oil.
>
> The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on
>
> the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.
> WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented to avoid
> completely disclosing its ingredients.[2] [3]WD-40's main ingredients,
>according
>
>
> to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
> * 50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits " primarily hexane, somewhat
> similar to kerosene)
> * 25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is
> now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
> * 15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
> * 10-%: Inert ingredients
> The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following
> safety-relevant ingredients:
> * 60 "80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated
> * 1 "5%: Carbon dioxide
>
> ________________________________
> From: mark ward < nomad59@... >
> To: List KLR <
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >
> Sent: Wed, June 15, 2011 1:17:18 PM
> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NEW? Chain lube
>
> Hey ALL
>
> NOT to start anouther thread............unless! HUMOR is included. LOL There ad
>
> says "NEW" so I thought I would let ya know.
>
> PB Blaster know for penetrents, now has PB50 an "ALL-purpose" Lubricant in a
> small 3oz. spray can. $1.98 at Homedepot.
>
> It's light weight, and petroliom, but what weight I could not find out even
> after talking to there Tech.
>
> But compared to WD40, a penetrent, This IS an oil.
> And what I like, is it's small for packing on long trips..
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]