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huuuuge valve gap??!!!
Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 12:20 pm
by simoninthewoods
Greetings fellow klristas!
I have agreed to check the valve clearances on a friend's klr as it has been running fine but very clattery. It wasn't clear where the rattling sound was coming from but we decided to start with checking the valves before moving on to more esoteric possibilities. I have got the cover off (haven't touched the camchain tensioner or cam caps yet).
Both inlet valves are tight but still within spec; the exhaust valves though are a different matter - left is 0.80mm and right is 1.65mm!!! This seems massively outside spec, and yet the bike has been running fine. My question is would the bike run with such large exhaust valve gaps (in which case I need to replace both exhaust shims - not a problem as I have performed this on my own klr)? Or am I doing something wrong? The engine is at TDC as confirmed by timing mark and all cam lobes pointing 'out'. Compression is fine and bike runs fine.
Any thoughts??
Many thanks
Simon
gps trail tech voyager integrated with instruments/gauges
Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 12:24 pm
by Jeffrey
anybody tried this out? Any good?
Jeffrey #3
huuuuge valve gap??!!!
Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 12:27 pm
by Fred Hink
Try turning the engine over again to TDC. Your decompression system may be holding this valve open. If you hear a click, that is the decompression system kicking off and the valve should be fully closed.
Fred
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
From: simoninthewoods
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 11:20 AM
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] HUUUUGE Valve Gap??!!!
Greetings fellow klristas!
I have agreed to check the valve clearances on a friend's klr as it has been running fine but very clattery. It wasn't clear where the rattling sound was coming from but we decided to start with checking the valves before moving on to more esoteric possibilities. I have got the cover off (haven't touched the camchain tensioner or cam caps yet).
Both inlet valves are tight but still within spec; the exhaust valves though are a different matter - left is 0.80mm and right is 1.65mm!!! This seems massively outside spec, and yet the bike has been running fine. My question is would the bike run with such large exhaust valve gaps (in which case I need to replace both exhaust shims - not a problem as I have performed this on my own klr)? Or am I doing something wrong? The engine is at TDC as confirmed by timing mark and all cam lobes pointing 'out'. Compression is fine and bike runs fine.
Any thoughts??
Many thanks
Simon
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
huuuuge valve gap??!!!
Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 2:54 pm
by Jeff Saline
On Sat, 21 May 2011 17:20:41 -0000 "simoninthewoods"
writes:
> Greetings fellow klristas!
> I have agreed to check the valve clearances on a friend's klr as it
> has been running fine but very clattery. It wasn't clear where the
> rattling sound was coming from but we decided to start with checking
> the valves before moving on to more esoteric possibilities. I have
> got the cover off (haven't touched the camchain tensioner or cam
> caps yet).
> Both inlet valves are tight but still within spec; the exhaust
> valves though are a different matter - left is 0.80mm and right is
> 1.65mm!!! This seems massively outside spec, and yet the bike has
> been running fine. My question is would the bike run with such large
> exhaust valve gaps (in which case I need to replace both exhaust
> shims - not a problem as I have performed this on my own klr)? Or am
> I doing something wrong? The engine is at TDC as confirmed by timing
> mark and all cam lobes pointing 'out'. Compression is fine and bike
> runs fine.
> Any thoughts??
> Many thanks
> Simon
<><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><>
Simon,
I'd try first what Fred is suggesting with turning the engine over
another 360 degrees. But I don't think that will do the job for you.
Those are really huge gaps and the only things I can think of that would
cause that is carbon on valve faces holding the valves open or
bent/sticky valves and they aren't closing all the way under slow engine
rotation.
I think if I was working on this bike I'd probably pull the cams and
shims and buckets. Then I'd measure the height of the valves and then
tap on them with a soft faced hammer. Maybe the tapping would allow the
valves to close a bit more if they are sticking. If nothing changed I'd
probably pull the header pipe and look in the exhaust port to see what I
could learn from that. Then I imagine I'd be pulling the head to fix the
valves.
Valve clearances don't get larger with normal wear. As the valve face
and seat wear the valve moves deeper into the head and that moves the
stem closer to the cam. That's what makes the clearance get smaller. By
putting in a thinner shim you adjust the clearance to manufacturers
specs.
I can't imagine anyone putting the engine together with the kind of
clearances you've described.
You must have had to use stacked feeler gauges just to get the clearances
figured out.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
.
.
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