Wilsons Sandbox

> > > Bike bleeding is a PITA! The service manual probably calls for a vacuum > type bleeder to suck the fluid through. You can also look for a "one man

> brake bleeder" at most auto stores, it'll help, but is not a quick > answer. A good suck is always better.

> > If you let it sit there long enough with fluid in the reservoir, it > will at some point work it's way down through.

> > As you've figured out, once you crack the valve, never leave it unattended! >

On 05/03/11 21:06, DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com wrote: > > > If fluid began coming out the bleeder hole once the bleeder was removed, > yes. The bleeder is likely clogged. Thanks heaps Eddie, I think you are right with that. > Before reinstalling it, take some plumber's teflon pipe tape (about a > dollar a roll at a hardware store) and wrap the threads a couple of turns > being extra careful not to block the hole(s) along the length of the > threaded portion. The tape will help keep air out during the bleeding > process. I got that tape lying around here, somewhere. Only Bill threw a spanner in that one. Will see if clearing the bleeder valve gets it back to how it used to work. I doubt that the seat or bleeder valve thread is damaged. But it shouldn't hurt to put some teflon tape in there. Of course, without covering the hole in the valve. And I am using a 10 mm wrench for the bleeder valve. > That you got a small fountain of fluid out the top of the reservoir at > least once means the system is building and releasing pressure as it should. > See the tiny hole in the bottom of the cleaned master cylinder? That's the Yep, can see the relief hole loud and clear, and that's where it spurts out. > Any strip of metal will do. Got a soda or beer can handy? Cut a strip from > it and rest it over the hole. Remove when you're done. Damn, I've had a bottle or red wine tonight... will that do? Actually, before having the wine, I just put the cover back on the reservoir while pumping. That fixed the squirting, although, at the moment, it doesn't quirt any more but one can see a stream of fluid coming out of the relief port... > > You likely had a bunch of air introduced to the system when the fluid ran > out. Now, you have to remove it. I'm still with you. > Air wants to rise in a fluid. Pumping the fluid downward to push the > bubbles out can work - if the bubbles are small enough. But, it sounds like > you have a a BIG bubble in the line. If you have access to a Mity-Vac hand > vacuum pump, you could connect it to the caliper bleeder, build up vaccum Nope, never had a brake issue and hence no fancy tools to evacuate the hose. > No pump? Try this. It's cheap and works. Go to an auto parts store and > obtain a mechanic's syringe. Sounds like a mighty big syringe. But I get your drift! Sounds very promising! I'll give it a try once I sober up and head over to the bike shop to get some more brake fluid. (Today, my girl friend decided to take my car to work, so I was kind of stuck). > Have a helper dry out the master cylinder with a paper towel and stand by > to mop out any potentially overflowing fluid. Sorry if I sound stupid, but why would you dry out the master cylinder _completely_? Couldn't you just empty it, sort of on the go, with a second syringe, while pumping in the juice from below? > you have then. It should be in the good to great range. Enough to bleed > things the old fashioned way "pump, hold, bleeder release, tighten bleeder, > repeat." I'll certainly give that a try once And yes, my experience is 25 years of mostly riding and maintaining motor bikes, rarely fixing major issues. This is only my second KLR, before that were a few Yamaha's (loved them, especially the FJ1000), several Honda's, other Kawa's and one Beemer (a K100 I barely dare to admit). And Ian, I feel for you. I guess I'm getting close to 400 pumps myself. Not giving up though. Stu, at this stage (with all the air already in the system), an aftermarket bleeding valve won't help, I guess. But I'll keep in mind and check online. Cheers again everyone! heinz