continuing carb (?) problem... sherlock holms, any ideas please

DSN_KLR650
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Ralph E. Hanson
Posts: 159
Joined: Sun Apr 09, 2000 8:15 am

battery tender

Post by Ralph E. Hanson » Mon Oct 16, 2000 12:00 pm

Well, I finally got my new battery charged up and installed over the weekend, and it's working great! I bought a Battery Tender Jr. from my local shop. Other than using a red/green light that my color-blind eyes have trouble telling apart, it seemed to work fine. I installed the Tender's pigtail to the battery and have the plug coming out behind the seat by the luggage rack. That looks like a good place for both plugging in the battery for charging and for plugging in an electric vest, should I get one. The rest of the time it is cleanly out of the way. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the Jr. and the regular Battery Tender? I know that the Jr. is smaller and cheaper, but it still goes from full charge to maintenance charge all by itself. Any information would be appreciated. Ralph Ralph E. Hanson 99 KRL 650 http://www.wvu.edu/~journal2

Fred Hink
Posts: 2434
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am

battery tender

Post by Fred Hink » Mon Oct 16, 2000 12:57 pm

[b]Hello Ralph,[/b] [b][/b]  [b]You might check out... http://www.batterytender.com/[/b] [b][/b]  [b]Fred[/b]  
----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] rhanson@... [b]To:[/b] DSN_klr650@egroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, October 16, 2000 9:55 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_klr650] Battery Tender Well, I finally got my new battery charged up and installed over the weekend, and it's working great! I bought a Battery Tender Jr. from my local shop.  Other than using a red/green light that my color-blind eyes have trouble telling apart, it seemed to work fine.  I installed the Tender's pigtail to the battery and have the plug coming out behind the seat by the luggage rack.  That looks like a good place for both plugging in the battery for charging and for plugging in an electric vest, should I get one.  The rest of the time it is cleanly out of the way. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the Jr. and the regular Battery Tender?  I know that the Jr. is smaller and cheaper, but it still goes from full charge to maintenance charge all by itself. Any information would be appreciated. Ralph Ralph E. Hanson 99 KRL 650 http://www.wvu.edu/~journal2 Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

sabel@wave.sheridan.wy.us
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Sep 30, 2000 8:03 am

battery tender

Post by sabel@wave.sheridan.wy.us » Mon Jan 08, 2001 8:49 pm

I just bought a Battery Tender as recommended by several guys out there from the "KLR650 Group". I've got several guestion I hope someone can help me with. Bought the Tender in hopes that I could keep my KLR650 fully charged without having to remove the side-cover and seat. Trouble is, the owners manual says to remove battery caps before charging battery. Has anyone out there had problems by leaving caps on and seat in place while charging ? Battery is after all vented. Second question is how to connect ring terminals to battery. One goes on the positive terminal of the battery but I'm not sure about the negative ring terminal. Can it go on the negative terminal of the battery or does it have to go on the frame somewhere ? Thanks for the help. Steve Abel Sheridan, Wyoming

Ted Palmer
Posts: 1068
Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2000 7:09 am

battery tender

Post by Ted Palmer » Tue Jan 09, 2001 5:35 am

sabel@... wrote: [...]
> Trouble is, the owners manual says to remove battery caps before > charging battery. Has anyone out there had problems by leaving caps > on and seat in place while charging ? Battery is after all vented.
Once I have the water level correct in a battery I just charge it up with the caps on. Haven't blown up a battery yet.
> Second question is how to connect ring terminals to battery. One goes > on the positive terminal of the battery but I'm not sure about the > negative ring terminal. Can it go on the negative terminal of the > battery or does it have to go on the frame somewhere ?
Negative terminal should be fine and preferable. Mister_T

k650dsn@aol.com
Posts: 965
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2000 1:35 pm

battery tender

Post by k650dsn@aol.com » Tue Jan 09, 2001 8:14 am

--- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, sabel@w... wrote:
> Trouble is, the owners manual says to remove battery caps before > charging battery. Has anyone out there had problems by leaving caps > on and seat in place while charging ? Battery is after all vented. > Second question is how to connect ring terminals to battery. One
goes
> on the positive terminal of the battery but I'm not sure about the > negative ring terminal. Can it go on the negative terminal of the > battery or does it have to go on the frame somewhere ? > Thanks for the help. > Steve Abel > Sheridan, Wyoming
I connected mine directly to the battery terminals. My KLR has a maint free battery and I've never had it boil dry with the Battery Tender. I also use the BT on my quad which has a conventional battery. It doesn't seem to loose any more water than it would normally, I just top it off annually. Gino

ltrout3@aol.com
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2011 9:26 am

battery tender

Post by ltrout3@aol.com » Sun Jan 16, 2011 9:26 am

    This is the second time that my battery has been dried up from my battery tender out of storage. 2 1/2 months. Now my other bike has a sealed battery and went an unheard  7 years of longevity before I had to change it out and I keep it constantly on it when I not riding even day to day. But the KLR isn't sealed and was bone dry! Same name brand "Battery Tender" units. Is there a difference from sealed to unsealed? 

Craig Kahler
Posts: 126
Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 7:52 pm

battery tender

Post by Craig Kahler » Sun Jan 16, 2011 10:43 am

The Battery Tender switches from charging mode to float mode only when and if the charge voltage reaches 14.6 volts. Some times internal leakage in a battery will not allow a 1 amp charger to reach that voltage and constantly keep just under 14.6v on the battery, burning it up over time.   Is the charger switching from charge to float mode?   If you don't have a volt meter, Harbor Freight sells one for $2.99. I have one and check the charge and float voltages from time to time. A float charge of 13 volts should never dry out your battery. Constant 24/7 14.5 volt charging will. Craig Kahler
--- On [b]Sun, 1/16/11, ltrout3@... [i][/i][/b] wrote:
From: ltrout3@... Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Tender To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, January 16, 2011, 10:26 AM       This is the second time that my battery has been dried up from my battery tender out of storage. 2 1/2 months. Now my other bike has a sealed battery and went an unheard  7 years of longevity before I had to change it out and I keep it constantly on it when I not riding even day to day. But the KLR isn't sealed and was bone dry! Same name brand "Battery Tender" units. Is there a difference from sealed to unsealed? 

Jeff Khoury
Posts: 684
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am

continuing carb (?) problem... sherlock holms, any ideas please

Post by Jeff Khoury » Sun Jan 16, 2011 12:04 pm

#ygrps-yiv-213289637 p {margin:0;}Check these things: Carb diaphragm for cracks/tears.  Look VERY closely. The slide should move without binding and you should hear it blowing air. Air Cleaner, airbox, intake snorkel Check for vacuum leaks Check the seal between the carb and intake -Jeff Khoury [b]From: [/b]"Steve" [b]To: [/b]"DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent: [/b]Sunday, January 16, 2011 7:25:03 AM [b]Subject: [/b][DSN_KLR650] Continuing carb (?) problem...  Sherlock Holms, any ideas please?   Still having a major problem with acceleration. Problem (continuing): The bike runs fine up to about 1/2 throttle, then it cuts out if I don't reduce the throttle. This only seems to occur when I'm riding it; if it's on the stand and I give it throttle it revs up fine. Also, it's much worse in higher gears... I can ride and give more throttle in 1st or second. I've completely disassembled and cleaned the carb twice. I've also disassembled and cleaned the petcock. But the danged think keeps cutting out on me when I ride it. Ideas? My frustration level is the only thing that's getting a lot of gas at the moment. Thanks, guys, for any ideas. On Sun, 02 Jan 2011 23:53:18 -0000 "Steve" writes:
> > First, Happy New Year to everybody from Panama. > > > > Current situation: After a year and a half I finally got the bike > > on the road on Friday (Yeaaaah !). Some of you might remember that > > the motor blew up on me in Brazil and I found a used motor > > replacement that I just got in). The bike ran fine up to about > > 2/3 > > throttle, then it cuts out if I don't reduce throttle. I figure > > that after that amount of time there is congealed gas somewhere > > (probably related to main jet), so I took the carb apart to do a > > complete cleaning. > > > > The problem: Everything came apart fine except the pilot mixture > > screw assembly (parts # 17, 4,3, & 7 on page 172 of the Clymer > > manual). I was careful and didn't drop anything. The pilot mixture > > screw and spring came out, but there doesn't seem to be the O ring > > and washer (parts # 4 & 7) attached. Possible that they are still > > stuck down in the hole, but it's very hard to see. > > > > Question: What is the best way to check if they are in the hole > > without damaging or scratching something? If they aren't, then > > what? My understanding is that the pilot screw handles low speed > > fuel flow, and that seemed to work fine. > > > > Thanks for your help.
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