Wilsons Sandbox

Bill, New batteries seldom are defective, especially when you set them up properly, as you have done. The problem may be with your hydrometer (battery tester). Sometimes, tiny air bubbles can cause the balls to stick to the side of the glass. I recommend the following steps. 1) Hold the hydrometer perfectly upright. 2) Squeeze the bulb 1/3 to 1/2 & slowly release the bulb. 3) With the hydometer still in the battery cell, flick the side of the glass tube sharply with you finger to dislodge any 'stuck' balls. Retest if necessary. 4) Sometimes, tiny air bubbles will cause one of the lower balls to float up & give a mis-leading reading. I've had back luck with some cheapy hydrometers over the years. I prefer the Yuasa 5-ball hydometer (less than $5 (USD). I've long since stopped using analog volt/multi-meters. You can buy a far more accurate DMM (digital multi-meter) for $15-$30. Some are even credit card sized. Radio shack frequently has 1 or more of their DMMs on sale. Walmart sells 2 DMMS that also handle amps (-10 to +10 amps) for $18-$25). I recenetly bought a Fluke #73 DMM at a pawn shop for $32. Keep in mind that a multi-meter is a versatile tool around the house too and it's well worth spending a bit more to get increased accuracy and ease of use. Many auto parts stores or battery/alternator shops will do a free battery load test for you. Unless you bought your battery from an unreliable source (G!), you shouldn't have a problem. Professor A9 Federal Way, Wa. [USA] --------------------------------------------- "billmonahan" wrote:

> OK, I went to Radio Shack, bought a multimeter ($10, you'd > think I'd have bought one before age 48) tested the battery > after another two hours on charge...it showed about between > 12.5 and 13 volts, so it is in there. I'll assume it's to > be all right.

----- Fred Hink replied

>> >> What is the voltage of your battery? It should be at least >> 12.6V and closer to 13.1 just after you have it charged. >> After your battery has set for a while it should be back to >> 12.6V >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: billmonahan >>> >>> I got a new battery on Wednesday and filled it up with acid. >>> Wednesday night, charged at 1 amp for four hours. Thursday >>> night, charged at 1 amp for two hours. Friday night charged >>> at 1 amp for two hours. (these hours were what was available >>> while I was at home). Four of the cells only raise three of >>> the balls in the hydrometer. I've never had this problem >>> with a new battery before, or charging one while servicing. >>> >>> All cells should float either four or five of the balls. >>> >>> Should I continue charging this battery?

Yes, I'd go for a lower-charging charger. Is that a car charger or a motorcycle charger? Chris -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brad Webster Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 1:41 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] New battery charging I just received a new YUASA-AHL-BS battery for my KLR. This battery is not factory activated so the user must add the provided acid pack and then initially charge the battery at the prescribed rate. The instructions for this model battery indicate that the charge should be 1.2 Amps for 5 - 10 hours. My lowest setting for my Schumacher SSC-1000A charger is 2 amps. I don't want to diminish the longetivity or performance of a new battery by giving it the wrong initial charge. Should I find another charger or would there be any ill effects to charge this battery at the 2 amp rate instead of the directions for a 1.2 amp rate? Thanks, Bradster

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 12:40:42 -0500 "Brad Webster" writes:

> I just received a new YUASA-AHL-BS battery for my KLR. This battery > is not > factory activated so the user must add the provided acid pack and > then > initially charge the battery at the prescribed rate. > > > > The instructions for this model battery indicate that the charge > should be > 1.2 Amps for 5 - 10 hours. > > > > My lowest setting for my Schumacher SSC-1000A charger is 2 amps. > > > > I don't want to diminish the longetivity or performance of a new > battery by > giving it the wrong initial charge. Should I find another charger or > would > there be any ill effects to charge this battery at the 2 amp rate > instead of > the directions for a 1.2 amp rate? > > > > Thanks, > > Bradster

<><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><> Bradster, The KLR battery I think is a 14 amp hour battery. So at 1.2 amps you'd really want to charge it for 11.6 hours for a full charge. With the 2 amp charger you'd drop the time to 7 hours for a full charge. A problem with using too large of a charger on a battery is charging generates heat. If the battery gets too hot it can damage the battery internals. It does need to get pretty hot for that. I think you could be ok using the 2 amp charger if you take it slow. Charge it for maybe an hour and check the temp of the battery. You can do that with your hand. If it feels real warm/hot to you unplug the charger until the battery cools. Then plug it back in for a bit less time. Do that until you have a fully charged battery which could in theory take 7 hours. Once the battery is stable at 12.65 volts or a bit more you can figure it's fully charged. Check it about 15 minutes at least after taking it off the charger. If you want to put a small load (light bulb) on it for a few minutes and then check it that's ok. Let the battery sit for an hour or so maybe after you fill it with acid. No distilled water on the initial fill up. Make sure you wear eye protection as a minimum. I usually rock the battery back and forth and maybe tap it on the work surface a few times to help dislodge bubbles. Once I'm sure I've got the level correct for all cells I'll wait a bit and then check it again. The internal components of the battery will absorb a bit of liquid changing the level. Remember, this is the only time you get to add acid to the battery so you better get it correct the first time. : ) No pressure, have fun. Take your time. Once you charge the battery only distilled water from then on. You can neutralize excess battery acid with baking soda. Just don't get any baking soda on/in the new battery. If I don't have an immediate need for the excess acid I neutralize it and dispose of the fluid. For me that is better than having it sitting around the shop. Someone will eventually get into trouble with it. It'll bubble when you add the baking soda. Just stir it a bit and add more soda until it doesn't bubble any more. I suppose you could also top off your old battery and then you'd get rid of the excess acid when you dispose of the bad battery. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

-------------- Original message -------------- From: "Chris Norloff" Yes, I'd go for a lower-charging charger. Is that a car charger or a motorcycle charger? Chris -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brad Webster Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 1:41 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] New battery charging I just received a new YUASA-AHL-BS battery for my KLR. This battery is not factory activated so the user must add the provided acid pack and then initially charge the battery at the prescribed rate. The instructions for this model battery indicate that the charge should be 1.2 Amps for 5 - 10 hours. My lowest setting for my Schumacher SSC-1000A charger is 2 amps. I don't want to diminish the longetivity or performance of a new battery by giving it the wrong initial charge. Should I find another charger or would there be any ill effects to charge this battery at the 2 amp rate instead of the directions for a 1.2 amp rate? Thanks, Bradster [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Its actually a marine charger. Has settings for 10a, 6a, 2a and modes for conventional, deep-cycle and AGM. bradster -------------- Original message -------------- From: bradster-grp@... -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Chris Norloff" Yes, I'd go for a lower-charging charger. Is that a car charger or a motorcycle charger? Chris -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brad Webster Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 1:41 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] New battery charging I just received a new YUASA-AHL-BS battery for my KLR. This battery is not factory activated so the user must add the provided acid pack and then initially charge the battery at the prescribed rate. The instructions for this model battery indicate that the charge should be 1.2 Amps for 5 - 10 hours. My lowest setting for my Schumacher SSC-1000A charger is 2 amps. I don't want to diminish the longetivity or performance of a new battery by giving it the wrong initial charge. Should I find another charger or would there be any ill effects to charge this battery at the 2 amp rate instead of the directions for a 1.2 amp rate? Thanks, Bradster [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Myself I did my charge at 1 amp, happen to have a 1 amp M/C charger that I use on the lawn tractor and 4 wheeler also, that is when I am not using the Battery Tender, but would not use the Tender for first charge since it will go into maintence mode when the voltage in the battery is at the Tender's limit, first charge I would giver a straight 1 amp for whatever time it says @ 1 amp ( Thought my selfed battery came with a chart ) Even cheaper, my dealer included a cheapy a/c adapter thing with a disconnecting end that I cut off and wired to match the Battery Tenders 2 Way moulded plug, it only charges at like 500ma(.5 amp ?). CHECK fluid level, RECHECK fluid level after a few minutes, make sure the fuild is not boiling (use flashlight pointed through it to look) Sure do hope that battery # is the "Sealed" type. (Bubye vent hose) Dooden and thats what I think A15 Green Ape... Itching for a ride... it was hot today in the 70's, but windy as Chicago out there Cheers --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Brad Webster" wrote:

> > I just received a new YUASA-AHL-BS battery for my KLR. This battery

is not

> factory activated so the user must add the provided acid pack and

then

> initially charge the battery at the prescribed rate. > > > > The instructions for this model battery indicate that the charge

should be

> 1.2 Amps for 5 - 10 hours. > > > > My lowest setting for my Schumacher SSC-1000A charger is 2 amps. > > > > I don't want to diminish the longetivity or performance of a new

battery by

> giving it the wrong initial charge. Should I find another charger

or would

> there be any ill effects to charge this battery at the 2 amp rate

instead of

> the directions for a 1.2 amp rate? > > > > Thanks, > > Bradster > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "RM" wrote:

> > If I put my unregulated 2 amp charger on my Westco sealed battery,

I can

> hear it begin to vent after a short while. > > I think a 2amp is fine, but I'd hover near it to listen for out-

gassing

> then cut the charging off right away. Given that a new battery

with the

> acid just dumped in has something like a 60-70% immediate charge, > topping it off with a 2 amp current shouldn't take long. > > RM >

1. If 2amp is thought to generate to much heat, and heat is the enemy, why not place the battery in a [plastic] pan and add ice/water (don't go crazy with the amount) for a heat sink? 2. Since we are going to be owning the KLR for quite some time...maybe we should buy the right accessories to make the job safe and successful? 2.1 Is there an easy-add 'resistor' that can be added in line to lower the 2amps to 1 or 1.5? revmaaatin. pondering in e-space.

I checked a Tech Manual from YUASA for more information on the initial charge for VRLA batteries such as the YTX-14AHL-BS. The tech manual is here: http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechMan.pdf The manuals' recommendation for the initial activation is 1/10 of the rated capacity. The YTX-14AHL-BS is rated at 14ah, thus the charge should be 1.4a. The instructions on the battery are for a 1.2 amp charge for 5-10 hrs. My concern on my existing charger is that the 2 amp will taper off as the voltage rises and may even turnoff before the battery is fully changed. As RM wrote previously, a new VRLA battery will have an 80% charge shortly after the acid permeates the plates. OK. Lives won't be lost. But, I might bite for a new charger to activate (and then maintain) this thing. I didn't plan on this when I purchased the battery from Bike Bandit. YUASA has a charger, Yuasa Automatic 12V 1.5 Amp Battery Charger, that can be had for $45-50. Has anyone activated YTX-14AHL-BS batteries with other chargers? bradster From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RM Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 6:47 PM To: undisclosed-recipients: Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] New battery charging If I put my unregulated 2 amp charger on my Westco sealed battery, I can hear it begin to vent after a short while. I think a 2amp is fine, but I'd hover near it to listen for out-gassing then cut the charging off right away. Given that a new battery with the acid just dumped in has something like a 60-70% immediate charge, topping it off with a 2 amp current shouldn't take long. RM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]