for sale, 2001 klr 650

[clint750@netzero.net]

Here's the drill if you really have to know. Put it on the centerstand (you have one, don't you?). Pull the bottom linkage bolt from the dogbone links. Move the rear wheel through full travel and note the minimum chain slack encountered. A floor jack under the wheel will help. The minimum chain slack encountered should be minimal, about 1". Adjust chain to achieve this. Reconnect linkage and note chain slack at full extension. Adjust chain to this amount of slack forevermore. On my G.I. Joe KLR this optimal chain adustment is obtained when the top of the lower run just clears the rubber chain guide strap which wraps under the swingarm, equating to 63mm of midway chain slack (book says 60mm max, close enough). Doing this on the sidestand is fine. My KLR rear suspension is at full extension on the sidestand. Points of interest. The KLR swingarm does go overcenter at full compression, but because of its length and the short sprocket-to-pivot distance the chain slack hardly increases from the minimum encountered. The above determinations will change somewhat if you change sprocket sizes or suspension geometry. Clint

[webfox2uk]

In the absence of an handbook, can somebody tell me what play there should be in the chain. I know most bikes it's 1/1.5 inches; is this the same for the KLR? Tony K UK

[Allan Patton]

The book says 2 to 2.4 inches. Then get a fat guy, like me, to sit far back on the seat to compress the spring as much as possible. Then you should have 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Roll it half a turn of the wheel and check it again. Loose is better. You don't want it too tight and damage the counter shaft. Allan A14

----- Original Message ----- From: "webfox2uk" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2002 5:51 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Chain Adjustment > In the absence of an handbook, can somebody tell me what play there > should be in the chain. I know most bikes it's 1/1.5 inches; is this > the same for the KLR? > > Tony K > UK > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.xmission.com/~dkenison/cgi/lwgate.cgi/KLR650/archives/ > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Bogdan Swider]

> ---------- > From: luvmitoyz > Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 10:29 AM > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Sprocket > > What should the drive chain tension be? any info would be great > thanks. > Zak >

Time to post this again.

> > No less an authority than klr guru Eldon Carl himself speaking "Ex > Cathedra" told me my method of judging chain tension must be great since > my chains lasted so long. Others use basically the same procedure. Some > have reported that KTM recommends it. Here it is: With the bike on it's > sidestand & unloaded, find the spot were the bottom run of the chain is > closest to the padded front section of the swingarm. You might want to > spin the chain around a bit to see if there's a spot where the chain is > tighter; if you find such a place do the inspection/adjustment there. > Push the bottom run of the chain up. It should almost touch the > swingarm. About 1/16" away; 1/8" is too much. Afterwards you can see how > much loading the bike changed it's position and go by that when the bike > is loaded although I haven't found a significant difference so I never > bother. On trips I check it at night while oiling. > > > Bogdan BTW, forget the chain wax; WD40 is all you need > > > > > >

[Mike Peplinski]

Ipve just adjusted my chain for the first time (used bike, 4000k miles). I put it up on a stand and set the full up-down to 2". My book says to do the 2" thing on thte side stand. When I sit on the bike the chain has only a small amount of play. It's not tight, but the suspension isn't all thte way down either. How much pressure should one use to check the free play? _________________________________________________________________ MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access helps fight spam and pop-ups now 2 months FREE! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

[Ron Crandell]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski" wrote:

> Ipve just adjusted my chain for the first time (used bike, 4000k

miles). I

> put it up on a stand and set the full up-down to 2". My book says

to do the

> 2" thing on thte side stand. When I sit on the bike the chain has

only a

> small amount of play. It's not tight, but the suspension isn't all

thte way

> down either. How much pressure should one use to check the free

play?

> > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access helps fight spam and pop-ups now 2

months

> FREE! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/

When I check the free play on my KLR, when the bike is on the sidestand, I can push (pull?) up and the chain will JUST touch the bottom of the rubber slider on the front of the swingarm. IMHO a little too much free play is better than too little... Ron in MN

[squasher_1]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski" wrote:

> Ipve just adjusted my chain for the first time (used bike, 4000k

miles). I

> put it up on a stand and set the full up-down to 2". My book says

to do the

> 2" thing on thte side stand. When I sit on the bike the chain has

only a

> small amount of play. It's not tight, but the suspension isn't all

thte way

> down either. How much pressure should one use to check the free

play?

> > \\

Personally my bike doesn't like anything tighter then 2.5 inches. I have cut into the bottom of the swing arm with the chain when it was at 2 inches. it will also feel like there is less travel in the shock becaue the chain is hitting the swingarm

[Lee Dodge]

What I believe to be the universal adjustment recommendation is as follows: Adjust the chain for ~ 1" of play under these conditions - depress the rear suspension so that the center of the countershafk sproket, the swing arm pivot and the rear axle all are in a straight line. When measuring the play have the motor in-gear and roll the bike slightly back so that the upper chain run is tight, all the slack will then be along the bottom run. Deacon

[Keith Saltzer]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Lee Dodge wrote:

> What I believe to be the universal adjustment > recommendation is as follows: > Adjust the chain for ~ 1" of play under these > conditions - depress the rear suspension so that the > center of the countershafk sproket, the swing arm > pivot and the rear axle all are in a straight line. > When measuring the play have the motor in-gear and > roll the bike slightly back so that the upper chain > run is tight, all the slack will then be along the > bottom run. > Deacon

That's not right Deacon. If you had gone through all the trouble to do it that way, (and that IS a bunch of work to check a chain) and your countershaft sprocket and rear axle is level with each other, that is the FARTHEST that the chain is going to need to be extended. If you still had a whole inch of slack anywhere on the chain at that point, your chain would be too loose. If you did it that way the chain should be fairly taught, with a litte "wiggle room" and that's it. But let me tell you the super de duper, easy, secret, KLR yahoo list way of doing it. With the bike on it's side stand (the way it will be when you walk up to it 99% of it's lifetime) bend down next to the chain and grab a rock, stick, cigarette butt, WHATEVER, (to keep chain crap off of your hands) and push the bottom chain run upwards, straight up to the back edge of your black chain slide. The rear part of the chain slide wraps around your swing arm and the farthest rearward edge is right in the middle of your chain run. With the correct 2 inches of slack in the chain, in this position, the chain should be easy to push up to within about 4 or 5mm of the chain slide edge, and then you should be able to use a bit more force and push the chain up to just barely touch the chain slide edge. If you can't touch it, it's too tight. If you can touch it easily, it's too loose. It's just that simple. I have used this method extensively after double double checking with a ruler that it works correctly. It does, and I find it extremely easy and quick to check my chain many times a week. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[matteeanne@yahoo.com]

How fanatical does one need be about their chain? I try the 2" ruler method, but am never convinced that I have it dead on. I realize a chain way out of whack can ruin sprockets, and gouge channels, etc. I just adjusted it a few days ago, and I check it about once a week when I wash and lube it. Is this enough? Now you got me paranoid... lol. Is good nuff good nuff? --- Keith Saltzer wrote:

> > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Lee Dodge > wrote: > > What I believe to be the universal adjustment > > recommendation is as follows: > > Adjust the chain for ~ 1" of play under these > > conditions - depress the rear suspension so that > the > > center of the countershafk sproket, the swing arm > > pivot and the rear axle all are in a straight > line. > > When measuring the play have the motor in-gear and > > roll the bike slightly back so that the upper > chain > > run is tight, all the slack will then be along the > > bottom run. > > Deacon > > That's not right Deacon. If you had gone through > all the trouble to > do it that way, (and that IS a bunch of work to > check a chain) and > your countershaft sprocket and rear axle is level > with each other, > that is the FARTHEST that the chain is going to need > to be extended. > If you still had a whole inch of slack anywhere on > the chain at that > point, your chain would be too loose. If you did it > that way the > chain should be fairly taught, with a litte "wiggle > room" and that's > it. > > But let me tell you the super de duper, easy, > secret, KLR yahoo list > way of doing it. > > With the bike on it's side stand (the way it will be > when you walk up > to it 99% of it's lifetime) bend down next to the > chain and grab a > rock, stick, cigarette butt, WHATEVER, (to keep > chain crap off of > your hands) and push the bottom chain run upwards, > straight up to the > back edge of your black chain slide. The rear part > of the chain > slide wraps around your swing arm and the farthest > rearward edge is > right in the middle of your chain run. With the > correct 2 inches of > slack in the chain, in this position, the chain > should be easy to > push up to within about 4 or 5mm of the chain slide > edge, and then > you should be able to use a bit more force and push > the chain up to > just barely touch the chain slide edge. If you > can't touch it, it's > too tight. If you can touch it easily, it's too > loose. It's just > that simple. > > I have used this method extensively after double > double checking with > a ruler that it works correctly. It does, and I > find it extremely > easy and quick to check my chain many times a week. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at > www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris > Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > >

__________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail