Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Sun Mar 14, 2010 10:26 am**

GREMLINS! Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================

On 3/13/2010 3:51 PM, Daniel wrote: Ok, new answer. It was the ignition coil. I finally took it into the shop (Mission Motorcycles in Daly City - Doug the mechanic is a KLR rider too, and I recommend both him and the shop) where I gave the full debrief. Apparently the primary circuit in the coil was working fine, but the secondary was putting out less voltage and had more resistance than it should have. Doug installed a new coil and I'm now up and running. By the way - the old, OEM battery wasn't dead. The Battery Tender Jr. I just bought wasn't working at all. I now have a new Battery Tender Plus and the old battery is holding 12.61V after a couple of hours charging and a day on the shelf. If anyone near San Francisco needs a stock battery, drop me a line and you can have it. Thanks, Daniel --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Daniel" fly@... wrote: > > Hi all, > > I just wanted to drop a quick note to everyone saying thanks for the input. It turns out the problem hasn't completely gone away, so I'll be carving out some time in the next few days to look at it some more. I'm beginning to suspect multiple problems, with one masking the other. I'll be trying out all of your suggestions, to the extent I can with a non-running bike. > > The old battery was definitely dead. It's now only holding 11.7V when charged off the bike. I bought a new AGM to replace it. > > Update: I went out for a ride shortly after I sent my first email on this subject. The bike rode fine for 3 miles to a stop. I then started the bike again and rode another couple of miles. Pulling away from a stoplight the bike just died again, with the same symptoms as I originally had - headlight on, engine cranking but not catching. I had to put the bike on a trailer to get it home. The petcock was on. > > It's beginning to sound like there's *also* a fuel flow problem, so I'm going to play near the petcock to see if suction is opening it properly and to see if any of the vacuum hoses leading to the petcock aren't sealed properly. I may also have toasted the petcock gasket when I took it apart. > > Just in case it -is- electrical, I'm going to see what the voltage draw is on the battery once I get it running again. I wish I'd thought of that earlier. > > Thanks again, and I'll report back with further progress. > > Daniel > > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > > > I see that there are a lot of answers to this, but I'm going to take my > > shot. > ... >

Posted: **Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:27 pm**

Hi Troops, I'm installing the Motech crash bars,and need to remove the upper subrame bolts. My six inch allen wrench doesn't seem to have the leverage needed to reverse the bolt, even with a pipe extension. Before I twist off the bolt heads is there something else I should use or do to back them out easier? The Motech includes two stronger bolts so you only remove one side at a time and don't need to drill anything. Thanks George Duluth

Posted: **Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:43 pm**

Spray with penetrating oil first. Add heat. Use a ratchet with an Allen socket. Usually works for me. If that doesn't work, try an impact wrench with the above mentioned Allen socket. -Jeff Khoury

On Mar 14, 2010, at 2:25 PM, "advrider2015" wrote:

Hi Troops, I'm installing the Motech crash bars,and need to remove the upper subrame bolts. My six inch allen wrench doesn't seem to have the leverage needed to reverse the bolt, even with a pipe extension. Before I twist off the bolt heads is there something else I should use or do to back them out easier? The Motech includes two stronger bolts so you only remove one side at a time and don't need to drill anything. Thanks George Duluth

Posted: **Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:57 pm**

Re: [DSN_KLR650] Subframe bolt removal help

I'll add this since I had a son-of-a-bitch 8mm allen bolt when I was replacing my Land rover's starter last week:

Spray with PB Blaster. Let sit for a few hours or overnight.

Use an air hammer with the skinny pointed chisel. Center it in the bolt head with decent forward pressure (to prevent hammering motion) and ZAAAAAAP. The vibes will transfer to the threads to help unseize them.

Mark

At 2:43 PM -0700 3/14/10, Jeff Khoury wrote:

Spray with penetrating oil first. Add heat. Use a ratchet with an Allen socket.

Usually works for me. If that doesn't work, try an impact wrench with the above mentioned Allen socket. -

Jeff Khoury

Posted: **Sun Mar 14, 2010 5:13 pm**

George, I'm wondering if someone put red loctite on the bolts when installed. If so you probably need to apply heat to the bolts to loosen the loctite. Red loctite takes over 450 degrees F to loosen. I'm thinking the bolts only call for 18 foot pounds of torque (but that's just my memory) so an allen wrench with a pipe extension should be plenty to loosen the bolts. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT --------- Forwarded message ---------- From: "advrider2015" To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2010 21:25:06 -0000 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Subframe bolt removal help Message-ID: hnjk7i+2f7i@egroups.com> Hi Troops, I'm installing the Motech crash bars,and need to remove the upper subrame bolts. My six inch allen wrench doesn't seem to have the leverage needed to reverse the bolt, even with a pipe extension. Before I twist off the bolt heads is there something else I should use or do to back them out easier? The Motech includes two stronger bolts so you only remove one side at a time and don't need to drill anything. Thanks George Duluth . ____________________________________________________________ Nutrition Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=a1XRH46pXzE1A8rF5xm3mAAAJ1DWfJIDP-R0_NC3mMpGFS0kAAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASQwAAAAA=

Posted: **Sun Mar 14, 2010 5:35 pm**

This is a factory 07, so if they use red loctite at the factory thats whats on them. I doubt its corroded so I'll skip the penetrating oil to avoid a fire if/when I need to use heat. I have a heat gun and a torch so I'll try those next. I won't get to this until next weekend so if anyone else has suggestions, I have lots of time to think this through. Motech says to use blue loctite when putting everything back together. I need to get a 6mm allen socket before I take another stab at this. Thanks George Duluth,MN

Posted: **Sun Mar 14, 2010 6:05 pm**

Apply some heat. the factory uses red loctite.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "advrider2015" wrote: > > Hi Troops, I'm installing the Motech crash bars,and need to remove the upper subrame bolts. My six inch allen wrench doesn't seem to have the leverage needed to reverse the bolt, even with a pipe extension. Before I twist off the bolt heads is there something else I should use or do to back them out easier? The Motech includes two stronger bolts so you only remove one side at a time and don't need to drill anything. > > Thanks > George > Duluth >

Wilsons Sandbox

bad battery - why wouldn't it catch when the lights were on and

bad battery - why wouldn't it catch when the lights were on and

subframe bolt removal help

subframe bolt removal help

subframe bolt removal help

subframe bolt removal help

subframe bolt removal help

subframe bolt removal help