Wilsons Sandbox

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > --Repost for those who've recently joined us-- > > How I did the muffler mod (a.k.a. tweetyectomy) > > What you need: > > 2" metal hole saw > 4" of 1" diameter dowel > a drill bit of the appropriate size for the hole saw > a pair of needle nosed pliers > a GOOD drill > a 1 7/8" or 2" OD piece of exhaust pipe or exhaust tip > a hacksaw > sandpaper > hi-temp matte black barbecue paint > a magnet on a stick (optional) > > A few bucks to pay a welder. > > * Chuck the drill bit and drill a longitudinal hole in the dowel. (The dowel will serve as a guide to keep the hole saw centered while cutting the back of your muffler.) > > * Unchuck the drill bit and chuck in the hole saw. > > * Attach the drill bit to the hole saw and tighten. > > * Slip the dowel over the drill bit. > > * Slide the whole contraption into the opening of your exhaust. > > * Cut the hole starting with slow speed and slow feed until you get a groove that the hole saw will ride in. Use cutting oil or similar applied at intervals while you're cutting. > > * Once the groove is created, you can increase the speed of the drill. > > * When you're getting close to breaking through, be careful not to push too hard and ram the hole saw into the guts of the muffler. > > * Tweety should come out easily if you grasp it with the needle nose pliers. > > * Use the magnet to pick up any shavings that fell into the muffler. > > * Stick the exhaust tip into the hole and guesstimate how much you want to cut off to leave the desired amount protruding. > > * Cut the exhaust tip to length with the hacksaw. > > * Have someone weld it in for you. (Midas did it for me for 20 bucks) > > * Surface sand all exposed metal to allow for best paint adhesion > > * Rattle-can the bare metal parts. > > * Start and listen to your new better-sounding, freer-flowing exhaust. > > Here are the pictures of my exhaust mod. Please excuse the sloppy weld, I guess the guy was having a bad day or something... > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/39547532@N03/sets/72157619806103287/ > > -Jeff Khoury >

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > --Repost for those who've recently joined us-- > > How I did the muffler mod (a.k.a. tweetyectomy) > > What you need: > > 2" metal hole saw > 4" of 1" diameter dowel > a drill bit of the appropriate size for the hole saw > a pair of needle nosed pliers > a GOOD drill > a 1 7/8" or 2" OD piece of exhaust pipe or exhaust tip > a hacksaw > sandpaper > hi-temp matte black barbecue paint > a magnet on a stick (optional) > > A few bucks to pay a welder. > > * Chuck the drill bit and drill a longitudinal hole in the dowel. (The dowel will serve as a guide to keep the hole saw centered while cutting the back of your muffler.) > > * Unchuck the drill bit and chuck in the hole saw. > > * Attach the drill bit to the hole saw and tighten. > > * Slip the dowel over the drill bit. > > * Slide the whole contraption into the opening of your exhaust. > > * Cut the hole starting with slow speed and slow feed until you get a groove that the hole saw will ride in. Use cutting oil or similar applied at intervals while you're cutting. > > * Once the groove is created, you can increase the speed of the drill. > > * When you're getting close to breaking through, be careful not to push too hard and ram the hole saw into the guts of the muffler. > > * Tweety should come out easily if you grasp it with the needle nose pliers. > > * Use the magnet to pick up any shavings that fell into the muffler. > > * Stick the exhaust tip into the hole and guesstimate how much you want to cut off to leave the desired amount protruding. > > * Cut the exhaust tip to length with the hacksaw. > > * Have someone weld it in for you. (Midas did it for me for 20 bucks) > > * Surface sand all exposed metal to allow for best paint adhesion > > * Rattle-can the bare metal parts. > > * Start and listen to your new better-sounding, freer-flowing exhaust. > > Here are the pictures of my exhaust mod. Please excuse the sloppy weld, I guess the guy was having a bad day or something... > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/39547532@N03/sets/72157619806103287/ > > -Jeff Khoury >

----- Original Message ----- From: "revmaaatin" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 10:19:33 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: i need help pls - Muffler Mod Instructions with Photos   Hi Jeff, Looking at your pictures, it seems you are removing the spark arrestor--T or F? Just asking. A non-conforming farkle = zero acess to some NF riding areas. and rightfully so (IMO). revmaaatin. --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > --Repost for those who've recently joined us-- > > How I did the muffler mod (a.k.a. tweetyectomy) > > What you need: > > 2" metal hole saw > 4" of 1" diameter dowel > a drill bit of the appropriate size for the hole saw > a pair of needle nosed pliers > a GOOD drill > a 1 7/8" or 2" OD piece of exhaust pipe or exhaust tip > a hacksaw > sandpaper > hi-temp matte black barbecue paint > a magnet on a stick (optional) > > A few bucks to pay a welder. > > * Chuck the drill bit and drill a longitudinal hole in the dowel. (The dowel will serve as a guide to keep the hole saw centered while cutting the back of your muffler.) > > * Unchuck the drill bit and chuck in the hole saw. > > * Attach the drill bit to the hole saw and tighten. > > * Slip the dowel over the drill bit. > > * Slide the whole contraption into the opening of your exhaust. > > * Cut the hole starting with slow speed and slow feed until you get a groove that the hole saw will ride in. Use cutting oil or similar applied at intervals while you're cutting. > > * Once the groove is created, you can increase the speed of the drill. > > * When you're getting close to breaking through, be careful not to push too hard and ram the hole saw into the guts of the muffler. > > * Tweety should come out easily if you grasp it with the needle nose pliers. > > * Use the magnet to pick up any shavings that fell into the muffler. > > * Stick the exhaust tip into the hole and guesstimate how much you want to cut off to leave the desired amount protruding. > > * Cut the exhaust tip to length with the hacksaw. > > * Have someone weld it in for you. (Midas did it for me for 20 bucks) > > * Surface sand all exposed metal to allow for best paint adhesion > > * Rattle-can the bare metal parts. > > * Start and listen to your new better-sounding, freer-flowing exhaust. > > Here are the pictures of my exhaust mod. Please excuse the sloppy weld, I guess the guy was having a bad day or something... > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/39547532@N03/sets/72157619806103287/ > > -Jeff Khoury >

----- Original Message ----- From: "revmaaatin" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 10:21:59 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: i need help pls - Muffler Mod Instructions with Photos   ps. would like to hear what it sounds like if you know how to post a file to u-tube, etc. (not like I know how--cough.) revmaaatin. --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > --Repost for those who've recently joined us-- > > How I did the muffler mod (a.k.a. tweetyectomy) > > What you need: > > 2" metal hole saw > 4" of 1" diameter dowel > a drill bit of the appropriate size for the hole saw > a pair of needle nosed pliers > a GOOD drill > a 1 7/8" or 2" OD piece of exhaust pipe or exhaust tip > a hacksaw > sandpaper > hi-temp matte black barbecue paint > a magnet on a stick (optional) > > A few bucks to pay a welder. > > * Chuck the drill bit and drill a longitudinal hole in the dowel. (The dowel will serve as a guide to keep the hole saw centered while cutting the back of your muffler.) > > * Unchuck the drill bit and chuck in the hole saw. > > * Attach the drill bit to the hole saw and tighten. > > * Slip the dowel over the drill bit. > > * Slide the whole contraption into the opening of your exhaust. > > * Cut the hole starting with slow speed and slow feed until you get a groove that the hole saw will ride in. Use cutting oil or similar applied at intervals while you're cutting. > > * Once the groove is created, you can increase the speed of the drill. > > * When you're getting close to breaking through, be careful not to push too hard and ram the hole saw into the guts of the muffler. > > * Tweety should come out easily if you grasp it with the needle nose pliers. > > * Use the magnet to pick up any shavings that fell into the muffler. > > * Stick the exhaust tip into the hole and guesstimate how much you want to cut off to leave the desired amount protruding. > > * Cut the exhaust tip to length with the hacksaw. > > * Have someone weld it in for you. (Midas did it for me for 20 bucks) > > * Surface sand all exposed metal to allow for best paint adhesion > > * Rattle-can the bare metal parts. > > * Start and listen to your new better-sounding, freer-flowing exhaust. > > Here are the pictures of my exhaust mod. Please excuse the sloppy weld, I guess the guy was having a bad day or something... > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/39547532@N03/sets/72157619806103287/ > > -Jeff Khoury >

> > I will take a short video and post it this weekend. It's a "little" louder than stock, but a much deeper tone, about as loud as a STOCK harley. If you're in 3rd or 4th at 4000 rpm or so, it sounds like a Ducati. > > -Jeff Khoury >

----- Original Message ----- From: "revmaaatin" mjearl@venturecomm.net> To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 9:59:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: i need help pls - Muffler Mod Instructions with Photos   --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > I will take a short video and post it this weekend. It's a "little" louder than stock, but a much deeper tone, about as loud as a STOCK harley. If you're in 3rd or 4th at 4000 rpm or so, it sounds like a Ducati. > > -Jeff Khoury > Oh, the noise issue. grimice. I hope it is a pleasant tone. grin. Last Sept I was riding with thermo-bob Watson, and asked him to verify what I thought was a lean-surge condition above 60mph =4500+rpm. He suggested removing the aircleaner door to see if that helped. It did. but the noise. ugh. No surge, but what a horrible flatulent noise the KLR makes with the air cleaner door removed. ugh. Ugh. I have not reistalled the door yet, but it is going to be. The cure was more annoying than than the problem. at least at this time. revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > I will take a short video and post it this weekend. It's a "little" louder than stock, but a much deeper tone, about as loud as a STOCK harley. If you're in 3rd or 4th at 4000 rpm or so, it sounds like a Ducati. > > -Jeff Khoury > Oh, the noise issue. grimice. I hope it is a pleasant tone. grin. Last Sept I was riding with thermo-bob Watson, and asked him to verify what I thought was a lean-surge condition above 60mph =4500+rpm. He suggested removing the aircleaner door to see if that helped. It did. but the noise. ugh. No surge, but what a horrible flatulent noise the KLR makes with the air cleaner door removed. ugh. Ugh. I have not reistalled the door yet, but it is going to be. The cure was more annoying than than the problem. at least at this time. revmaaatin.

> > Here is what the bike sounds like with the described muffler mod. I am attaching it, but just in case it gets stripped, here is a clickable link: > > http://www.astatic.net/files/MufflerAudio.mp3 > > -Jeff Khoury >

----- Original Message ----- From: "revmaaatin" To: "DSN KLR650" ups.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 9:59:47 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: i need help pls - Muffler Mod Instructions with Photos   --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > I will take a short video and post it this weekend. It's a "little" louder than stock, but a much deeper tone, about as loud as a STOCK harley. If you're in 3rd or 4th at 4000 rpm or so, it sounds like a Ducati. > > -Jeff Khoury > Oh, the noise issue. grimice. I hope it is a pleasant tone. grin. Last Sept I was riding with thermo-bob Watson, and asked him to verify what I thought was a lean-surge condition above 60mph =4500+rpm. He suggested removing the aircleaner door to see if that helped. It did. but the noise. ugh. No surge, but what a horrible flatulent noise the KLR makes with the air cleaner door removed. ugh. Ugh. I have not reistalled the door yet, but it is going to be. The cure was more annoying than than the problem. at least at this time. revmaaatin.