Wilsons Sandbox

At 2:13 PM +0000 7/16/09, eddiebmauri wrote:

>Ya'll, I hate to sound dumb, but what does OEM stand for? Thanks.

Original Equipment Manufacturer (or something along those lines), i.e., in this case, "Genuine Kawasaki" parts. Mark

Exactly. Usually OEM means that someone else produced the products for the company that is selling them. We are an OEM. In our example (we don't make this part, just using a "for example), suppose Kawasaki needed front fenders and contracted us to do it. They would be genuine Kawasaki parts, made to their specifications, but not actually made by Kawasaki. If an aftermarket company wanted a duplicate of a KLR fender, we could also to that, but they would not be "OEM" because they are not "genuine Kawasaki parts". Mike Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:

> > > At 2:13 PM +0000 7/16/09, eddiebmauri wrote: > >Ya'll, I hate to sound dumb, but what does OEM stand for? Thanks. > > Original Equipment Manufacturer (or something along those lines), > i.e., in this case, "Genuine Kawasaki" parts. > > Mark > >

I vote with Mark... Original Equipment Manufacturer AS in they are going to have a factory part number assigned and built/manufactured to spec. An Aftermarket fender might fit a KLR but its not OEM since its "Aftermarket" Or always this: ( Wikipedia.org ) OEM may stand for: Original equipment manufacturer, the original manufacturer of a component for a product, which may be resold by another company Office of Emergency Management, a general term for emergency management functions Office for Emergency Management, a World War II function within the Executive Office of the United States Government Object Exchange Model, a model for exchanging data between object-oriented databases Oracle Enterprise Manager, a computer application that aims to manage software produced by Oracle Corporation Code page 437, the original character set of the IBM PC, circa 1981 Bet I could make a few up if you want also. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Frey wrote: > > Exactly. Usually OEM means that someone else produced > the products for the company that is selling them. > > We are an OEM. In our example (we don't make this part, > just using a "for example), suppose Kawasaki needed > front fenders and contracted us to do it. They would be > genuine Kawasaki parts, made to their specifications, > but not actually made by Kawasaki. > > If an aftermarket company wanted a duplicate of a KLR > fender, we could also to that, but they would not be "OEM" > because they are not "genuine Kawasaki parts". > > Mike > > Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote: > > > > > > At 2:13 PM +0000 7/16/09, eddiebmauri wrote: > > >Ya'll, I hate to sound dumb, but what does OEM stand for? Thanks. > > > > Original Equipment Manufacturer (or something along those lines), > > i.e., in this case, "Genuine Kawasaki" parts. > > > > Mark > > > > >

If its been running good, myself: 1. I would add SeaFoam and ride it to see if it clears up, sounds little like varnish building up. 2. Right side of carb you can adjust idle speed by turning the screw in while giving the throttle a slight twist. 3. Might be time to recheck them valves, if checked and are on the tight end of spec, adjust to max end of spec (it will be noisy) "A Happy Valve is a Tappy Valve" at least on a KLR 4. Yes you can put that sprocket on the bike, if the 15t is the factory one with the rubber thingy on it, you will notice that will get perhaps less noisy, and yes you will loss low end grunt, but if you ride mainly on the roads the 15/43 combo is a pretty good happy medium IMO. Yes if you put it all on new is more gooder, sure but guessing you are on the original chain at 14k ? and if the sprocket is in good condition go for it. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Hal" wrote: > > 1. Question 1: My KLR650 2002 is starting to idle at about 900 to 1000 rpm and needs a little choke around town for longer than usual to keep from dying (and me dying from embarrassment) at stop lights. > > Its got about 14K miles and has been running perfectly before this. I have not had the valves adjusted since buying it new about 7k miles ago. > > 2. It has a 14tooth front sprocket and I drive it a lot on the freeway. I was thinking of changing the front sprocket (it was included with the deal about 7k miles ago, which should give me better gas mileage and maybe 5 more miles per hour at the same revs...is this correct? It does now seem to have some nice grunt down low and maneuvers well at low speeds...would this change drastically? and would just changing the sprocket be not a good idea as I have heard that you should always change both sprockets and the chain together (which would be more $$)? >