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clutch wear
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 8:24 pm
by James A III
Anyone ever worn out a clutch on their KLR? I got 34K and am thinkin'
it may be time...
clutch wear
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 9:47 pm
by cyclebay@aol.com
48,000 miles and just replaced the clutch basket due to knocking in the lower
end of the motor. Cush drive springs were beat until the basket had 1/4" of
freeplay when rocked against the gear. Clutch had also reached a point where it
was difficult to find nuetral when sitting stopped.
Reinstalled the old clutch plates (originals) with the new basket and new
clutch springs (pressure plate springs). Clutch basket solved the knocking. In
fact, I purchased the bike ('04 with 8,200 miles) and it had this knock at
highway speeds (80mph with luggage and passenger) since day one. Knock had gotten
much worse as mileage has been added. With new clutch basket, knock is
currently gone, vibration is reduced at all rpm's, nuetral is once more easy to locate
when stopped.
Doohickey has been in the bike since I bought it, installed by the prior
owner. Replaced balancer chain at 35,000 (doohickey spring was not tensioning any
longer and chain had tight and loose spots in it as all chains seem to do as
they wear), installed new cam chain while doing the basket as tensioner was
nearing the last 1/3rd of adjustment.
Leaving for a 2,500 miles trip to Mid Ohio (Vintage Days) next Wednesday,
followed by 2 days of backroad riding in West Virginia. No worries at this time.
Greg
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
clutch wear
Posted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:08 pm
by Bob Schulte
When it doesn't work anymore replace it.
----- Original Message -----
From: James A III
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 9:22 PM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] CLutch Wear
Anyone ever worn out a clutch on their KLR? I got 34K and am thinkin'
it may be time...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
clutch wear
Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 7:15 am
by Jud Jones
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "James A III" wrote:
>
> Anyone ever worn out a clutch on their KLR? I got 34K and am thinkin'
> it may be time...
>
At 40k, I'm thinking mine's about done. First time I wore out a clutch on anything.
clutch wear
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 1:28 pm
by Chris Long
Hello all,
I have a 2008 with close to 20,000 miles on it. I got it at 15,000 and
the engagement point for the clutch has always been towards the end of
the lever travel. I'm wondering if that is an indication that the
clutch plates need replacement.
Thanks for your help.
Chris
Lakewood, CO
2008 KLR
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 1, 2009, at 6:08 AM, Luc Legrain wrote:
>
>
>
> Looking for somebody " EXPERIENCED " 150 miles radius of Nashville,
> Tn to help me check valves on my '05 bike .
> Thanks
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
clutch wear
Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 5:34 pm
by Jud Jones
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Chris Long wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a 2008 with close to 20,000 miles on it. I got it at 15,000 and
> the engagement point for the clutch has always been towards the end of
> the lever travel. I'm wondering if that is an indication that the
> clutch plates need replacement.
>
> Thanks for your help.
My engagement point has been near the end of the lever travel for the last 40,000 miles, and I assume for the 4k before that when I didn't own it. I get a little better control with my stubby fingers by adjusting the lever for a little extra free play.
clutch wear
Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:44 am
by cyclebay@aol.com
71,000 miles on original clutch on 2004 KLR650. Inspected two weeks ago
and everything still looks good. I have replaced three cables. They run
too close to the exhaust header, melt inside or condensate from the
heating/cooling, then they don't relaease fully when the lever is
released, then the clutch begins to slip gradually. By the time the
rider notices the clutch slip, it has damaged the plates and is beyond
a cable replacement. I lube my cable with a spray chain lube and a
cable luber tool a couple times per year and I have zip tied the cable
to one of the water pump hoses to keep it pulled away further from the
header. I wrapped an old inner tube around the water pump hose and zip
tied it to prevent the hose from being damaged from the vibrating zip
tie that is holding the cable. I removed the cable periodically so that
I can tell if it moves easily in and out by hand, with the variable of
the motor actuator arm and the hand lever removed from the equation.
As far as the lever freeplay goes, when the lever is pulled in far
enough to remove all freeplay, there should be enough room to stick a
nickle sideways (3-4mm)between the holder and the lever. More than that
is Ok so long as the clutch dowesn't drag when fully pulled in, less is
not good.
Greg Hall
klr600 1985 9000miles
Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:44 am
by transalp 1
The jet kit is pretty straightforward. Clean the outside of the carb before
you take it loose. No sense in letting dirt & debris mess up
what is essentially a 5 min. job.(once the carb is in hand.)
Take care with the rubber slide diaphragm and make sure it is seated
properly when you put the top back on,too.
Downstairs, carefully remove the float bowl on your way to changing the
main jet. pay particular attention to the float assembly and not
hit it on anything and possibly knock it out of adjustment. Aside from
that, it's really simple.
eddie
> [Original Message]
> From: benji_sounds
> To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: 7/3/2009 6:39:42 AM
> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR600 1985 9000miles
>
> Ok so after alot of pissing about with the bike recently new front tyre
new front brake pads new starter clutch cleaning the carb due to a leak and
overflowing. Ive now purchased a SuperTrapp IDS2 Racing Series and a
DynoJet Stage 3 Kit, Which air filter should I fit and does anybody know if
650 airfilters fit on 600s. The 600 isn't quite as supported as the 650.