Wilsons Sandbox

Last week I blew out both fork seals on my 95 going faster than I should have been on a rutted out logging road. Damn I hate changing fork seals. I did a few tricks to help simplify things and thought maybe I might pass them along. Found that a broom stick works great after removing the springs. Just shove the broom stick down the fork tube and hold it in place and you'll be able to remove the bottom allen bolt with no effort at all. Went to the plumbing store and bought 3' of inch and a half ID schedule 40 pvc pipe and used it to drive the new seals in place. Works great. Put 15 weight fork oil in and now readdy to go. I did the whole job in about an hour and a half to my surprise. Later, MM Signup for your FREE ZenSearch E-MAIL account at http://www.zensearch.net and win a Notebook PC

Sorry to bring this back up, but I missed Swedes fork removal technique. I checked the archives, but only came up with my original question 2 years ago, and 172 others, but nothing newer than sept 2000, so if someone could send me that message, I would appreciate it.(off list would be fine. I'm on digest.) I have had the new seals for 2 years, but the leak has gone from mildly irratating to messy and probably un safe. Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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peep.... I'd like a copy 2.... Greg in Dallas

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Ryan Combs" wrote: > Sorry to bring this back up, but I missed Swedes fork removal technique. I checked the archives, but only came up with my original question 2 years ago, and 172 others, but nothing newer than sept 2000, so if someone could send me that message, I would appreciate it. (off list would be fine. I'm on digest.) I have had the new seals for 2 years, but the leak has gone from mildly irratating to messy and probably un safe. Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have yet to do the fork seals on a KLR, I have done seals on a CB750, XJ750, CM400, SR500 (twice). "Fortunately" the forks on the KLR are early 70's technology so they should be mostly the same. I have yet to buy a special tool. If you have a bench vise with lead jaws it's easiest to remove the forks completely. If you have a good work lift that holds the bike securely, you can use the triple clamps themselves to hold the forks for disassembly. The hardest part is unscrewing the damper rod. The rod usually spins when you try to turn the allen bolt in the fork bottom. If you don't have an air impact wrench (I don't), buy a 24" and a 12" socket extension for your 3/8" drive ratchet. This, with a socket to fit the tool for holding the damper rod, will reach down the fork. You don't need a 36" reach when you remove the springs and oil, but it's easier when you don't have to hold the forks compressed and work the wrenches at the same time. Find the $0.49 threaded rod coupling that's closest to the size of the damper rod socket, and spend 10 minutes with a file making it fit in the top of the damper rod. That will take the place of the special tool for holding the damper rod. This assumes that Kawasaki has a 12-point damper rod top like Yamaha and Honda. Devon Bob Kaub wrote:

> What's the conventional wisdom on replacing fork seals? > My '98 has a bad seal on the right fork. > I have the service manuals and the procedure seems quite complicated and > need a plethora of special tools which I don't have and don't want to buy to > use only once. > Thanks. > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Hey Bob, Check out this URL... http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Breakers/8462/KLR650/ForkSeal- RR.html for EZ Fork Seal Replacement (you may need to copy & paste the URL into your browser) Phil A-15 Live Oak, FL Flipr'sWorld http://www.roddenberry.net/

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Bob Kaub" wrote: > What's the conventional wisdom on replacing fork seals? > My '98 has a bad seal on the right fork. > I have the service manuals and the procedure seems quite complicated and > need a plethora of special tools which I don't have and don't want to buy to > use only once. > Thanks.

>>

> know. Also....stop blowing seals you pervert.

Bogdan: One of the other nice listers gave me the link to the compressed air removal site. I printed it out. I must admit to not being quite desperate enough to blow any seals yet. But you never know. Thanks. I think.

> What's the conventional wisdom on replacing fork seals? > My '98 has a bad seal on the right fork. > I have the service manuals and the procedure seems quite complicated and > need a plethora of special tools which I don't have and don't want to buy > to > use only once. > Thanks. > >

Conventional ? That I don't know but I do know that the easiest and cheapest (no special tools) is the compressed air removal method that Swede developed and that's worked great on Rex H's forks as well as mine ( One of mine needed 120 psi before it would go; that made me nervous but my father in law, a tech for HP, who works with compressed air all the time said he didn't consider it dangerous ) That may be what's described on the link that Phil posted; I couldn't access it. If it isn't or you need more info, let me know. Also....stop blowing seals you pervert. Bogdan