----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Kickbush"
To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 11:11 AM
Subject: [DSN_klr650] Is 4" too big?
> Someone posted something a while ago about scraping their tool carrier
with their front tyre when it bottomed. Wondering if this means 4" sched.
40 ABS pipe would be too big in that case - mounting it with the MSR bash
plate and Tims highway pegs, pretty much in the middle of the two. My
dealer thinks the forks may flex a little, making measuring with the fork
springs out not totally accurate. Looking at it though, the closest a tube
is going to come to the tire is at max compression, and I would expect the
least amount of flex then, as one tube is inside the other. I'm sure he's
on crack this time. Anyone know who it was that had a 4" rubbing and how
they had it mounted?
>
> Rich
> Circumference is everything...
>
> PS I know a lot of people have this mounted, but not too many bottom out
their forks too often.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
>
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@...
> Let's keep this list SPAM free!
>
> Visit our site at
http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>
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>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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>
>
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:16:23 -0500
From: "Enlow, Kyle S"
Subject: For Sale Bags
I have the Kawai tank bag and saddle bags new I would like to sell.
Saddle bags new $138.95 my price $100.00
Tank Bag new 54.95 my price $30.00
Email me off list if you are interested.
Kyle
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 05:22:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Brad Davis
Subject: Fallen Bike Link
This is the link to the before mentioned bike pickup
method:
http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/pickup.html
Brad
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Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:31:14 EST
From: jeffeyj@...
Subject: Africa Twin Importer? NKLR
>3-there is an importer in south Florida that brings in greys. I've spent
>the last .5 hour looking for them with no avail.
Is this who your thinking of:
Cycle Imports
7603 NW 50th Street
Miami, FL
305 597-4440
If this is not correct let me know and I'll look it up, or drive by. They
mostly Import small 2 strokes, but I understand they can get anything on 2
wheels. Add about 25% to the list price though.
Jeff Bryn
Miami, FL
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:49:39 -0000
From: dan_iss@...
Subject: klr parts!
ok, ive gotten quite a few requests for parts. so much so that in
order to keep things organized im switching email addresses. if
anyone else has any part requests, email me at my new address
klrparts@...
if you have already emailed at this address, ill contact you from the
new address.
once again though, its an 1989 klr650 with 50,000 miles. doesnt run.
most parts are in decent shape considering the fact that ive ridden it
fairly hard and kept it outside often....
ok hope all is well!
dan...
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:01:54 -5:00
From: "Dave Morrow"
Subject: New Bike
Thanks to all who responded to my search for a KLR. On saturday
I picked up a y2k A14 from fellow lister Pete Denzer. It was a bit
more than my budget and a bit farther than my 300 mile radius but
Pete had some extras that made the trip very worthwhile. Having
known him to be a respectable, conscientious rider from other
moto lists over the last couple years helped as well.
I am very happy to finally have my very own KLR. Mother nature
just shat a half foot of snow upon us last night about which I am
less than happy. Oh well.
Dave Morrow
Vermilion, Ohio
'00 KLR650
'96VN1500D
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:02:04 -5:00
From: "Dave Morrow"
Subject: Carb Diaphragm help
The carb diaphragm can be a major bitch to reseat. A trick that
helps occasionally is put the slide/diaphragm assembly in the
freezer for a couple hours. It shrinks a bit and is less plyable.
Dave Morrow
Vermilion, Ohio
'00 KLR650 - picked up saturday, I'm so proud
'96VN1500D
> Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:38:15 -0500
> From: "Walter Lesnowich"
> Subject: Carb Diaphragm Help
>
> I have a DynoJet kit that keeps bothering me to put it on the KLR
> so today I began doing it. Everything went smoothly other than the
> shaft for the float trying to hide on the engine just above the sprocket
> which I found and the diaphragm not wanting to stay in it's groove.
>
> What am I doing wrong? I used to believe I was pretty dexterous
> but now I feel like a total spazoid. Is it because I am not a woman
> and have no experience with diaphragms? Someone please let me
> know what the trick is to getting the diaphragm to seat without pinching
> it. I thought I had it once by pushing it in along the edge with the
cover
> over it but I lifted it back off wondering if I pushed it in too far. Is
> this
> the way? I can't get it in the groove all the way around otherwise.
>
> Walt
> A14
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 14:05:25 -0000
From: "Swede"
Subject: Re: Shipping a bike
Ya got a friend that's an OTR truck driver? Put it on the frame
and strap it to the sleeper. (Just find out when he's going that
way, maybe you can ride along.)
"Swede" --- In DSN_klr650@y..., Multifunction-ES@B... wrote:
> > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., eyemgh@e... wrote:
> > > If you have had any experience shipping a bike, I'd appreciate
> some insight. How does the bike need to be prepped? Who is a
reliable
> > > shipper? How much should I expect to pay? Etc.?
> >
>
> Price obviously depends on distance. If you're trying to ship
within
> the continental US, I would keep hunting til you find something
under
> $500.
>
> dat brooklyn bum
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:20:01 -0700
From: Alex Sfakianos
Subject: Re: For sale, accessories for KLR 650
1. Happy Trails NW rack- the one piece one, $100.00
2. Factory Tank bag, $20.00
3. Clearview tall screen, $50.00
4. Factory manuals, $35.00
axel@...
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 14:52:57 -0000
From: les123@...
Subject: Re: shifting problem
Hi Jim,
A newbie suggests-
I second Slide's recommendations. Listers have reported that the
stock shifter can break that soon.
If you can't figure it out quickly, maybe you should take it to a
dealer to document the problem exists before the warranty expires.
Look for any interference to shifter movement. This has been known to
cause trouble before - but usually for downshifts, when an
aftermarket skid plate got in the way.
Time since oil change? Oil type? NOT a back-door request for an oil
thread:-).
On my 00 the 1to2 shift has always been the clunkiest but I don't
think I've ever had that much trouble - I miss it occasionally but
another poke puts it in gear.
Dave
A14
Richmond
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., plexifairing2000@y... wrote:
> Hello- I am a new owner of a 00 KLR with less than 5000 miles on
it, I have begun to have problems shifting up from first to second
gear. I get hung up in neutral. A second lift to the shifter results
in a "clunk" but no results- I am stil in neutral. I can shift down
to first without difficulty. This problem comes and goes but seems to
happen more when the engine is fully warmed up. Besides
being an annoyance, this condition could have me dead in the water
with traffic bearing down on me from behind. I have had to pll off
the road a few times when this happened.Ii have tried shifting more
forcefully, getting the rpm's higher, pausing a second before
upshifting- nothing seems to help. Any suggestions? It's under
warrenty for another month-get it to a Kawasaki dealer and let them
figure it out?
thanks, JIM Richmond,Va.
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:54:58 -0500
From: Mark
Subject: Re: Carb Diaphragm help
At 9:46 AM -0500 3/26/01, Dave Morrow wrote:
>The carb diaphragm can be a major bitch to reseat. A trick that
>helps occasionally is put the slide/diaphragm assembly in the
>freezer for a couple hours. It shrinks a bit and is less plyable.
I found the opposite to be true in my experience. The diaphragm is
only a bitch to seat when the ambient temperature is less than
75-80F. I've been in the carb many times over a one year period when
I was originally experimenting with my dynojet kit and exhaust
configuration. In the summer months, the diaphragm maintained the
shape of the groove, but in the winter, it wanted to spread wider
than the groove. On those occasions, I would use a blunt plastic
probe to nudge the lip back under the cover.
Mark
B2
A2
A3
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:00:58 -0500
From: "Robert J. Kaub"
Subject: Bleeding Brakes
This procedure could apply to our KLRs.
I'll test it soon when I put the bike back on the road.
I inherited a very high mileage Honda Civic and am generally going over it
to bring it up to snuff.
I has a manual transmission with a hydraulically actuated clutch. The brake
fluid in the clutch master cylinder is black and has never been changed.
This is a very simple and easy to work-on car. The master cylinder and
clutch actuation cylinder are right in front of you. I had an idea. Rather
than go through some complex bleeding procedure, why not let the brake fluid
just drip out of the bleed screw in the clutch actuation cylinder, while
watching and adding to the clutch master fluid level as necessary, until the
fluid dripping out of the bleed screw was clean.
I did just that. It took about 1/2 a can of brake fluid until the fluid was
clear. Clutch works great.
I flushed the used brake fluid down the toilet.
Anyway, I think that the front and rear brake lines on the KLR can be
flushed the same way. Very simple and no special tools or parts required.
Thanks.
Bob Kaub
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:18:34 -0700
From: Bogdan Swider
Subject: RE: Bleeding Brakes
> I flushed the used brake fluid down the toilet.
> Anyway, I think that the front and rear brake lines on the KLR can be
> flushed the same way. Very simple and no special tools or parts required.
> Thanks.
> Bob Kaub
>
>
Yeah, that method works on the klr too. Glad to see you gave your
toilet the needed Spring maintenance to keep it flushing smooth. Bogdan
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:25:23 -0800
From: "Thomas Baumen"
Subject: HELMETS
As far as Helmets go these days, yes you should replace them
regularly,,,,at least every 3 to 5 years depending on where you live
and ride. If you ride year round in Arizona I would go for 3 years
because of OZONE.
But we are in a great time for helmet buying these days. The first
item is safety and for me Snell is it. So I can buy a comfortable good
looking Snell 95 or 2000 helmet for under $150.00 any day of the week
so why wouldn't I replace it every few years. Around here(Oregon) it
seems like the dealers are always closing out a model. Shoei 800s are
going for $200 right now and I bought my wife and myself matching HJC
CL11 models last year for $90.00 each on close out. I tell you the HJC
helmets are a very nice helmet,,, I would say as nice a an Arai was 5
years ago. I also have a Bieffe BR16 that cost $190 two years ago and
it seems like they are just getting better in quality and comfort
compare to a Bieffe I had before. The Bieffe America has a close out
section and has a lot of helmets at very good deal right now so there
is no good excuse to not replace the brain bucket every 3 to 5 years.
I take my used ones and use them for target practice. I don't want it
on my conscious that I sold or gave away a worn out hard foam helmet
and made some poor guy feel safe when he may not have been.
Tom Baumen
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 07:29:26 -0800
From: George Basinet
Subject: Re: Is 4" too big?
Rich Kickbush wrote:
> Someone posted something a while ago about scraping their tool carrier
with their front tyre when it bottomed. Wondering if this means 4" sched.
40 ABS pipe would be too big in that case - mounting it with the MSR bash
plate and Tims highway pegs, pretty much in the middle of the two. My
dealer thinks the forks may flex a little, making measuring with the fork
springs out not totally accurate. Looking at it though, the closest a tube
is going to come to the tire is at max compression, and I would expect the
least amount of flex then, as one tube is inside the other. I'm sure he's
on crack this time. Anyone know who it was that had a 4" rubbing and how
they had it mounted?
>
> Rich
> Circumference is everything...
>
Rich,
I've had my 4" tool carrier on for about 6,000. I did find a small rubbed
spot on it once. I have highway pegs and bash plate, but I also have
Progressive springs. Of course I'm an 'old, slow rider, there are no old
bold ones'.
I am going to shorten mine a bit because when I took a dump at Moab it broke
loose mainly because it was longer than Tim's pegs.
George
Escondido, CA
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:35:16 -0500
From: "Zachariah Mully"
Subject: RE: Re: What's Blue?
Squasher-
Well, all the crap collects in the outside's "vallies" and I
couldn't see
anything with the filter paper still on the filter body. So I cut around the
filter body and removed the paper and this allowed me to spread it out and
really see what the heck it was catching. I think that you might be able to
see some stuff when the paper is still on, but next time you do an oil
change try doing what I did... I think you'll be surprised how much crap the
oil filter catches. This is making me think more about one of those K&P
stainless steel permanent filters.
As to everyone who suggested it was the remains of gasket sealer
that I
found in my oil filter, I guess that must be it. I hope that this doesn't
mean that gasket sealer becomes brittle and bright blue when it is exposed
to high temps and oil. Then again, nothing is leaking on my bike, so out of
sight out of mind.
Thanks all.
------------------
Zack
SE DC
KLR650A5 "Buster"
ZG1000A1
-----Original Message-----
From: thesquasher@... [mailto:thesquasher@...]
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 6:19 PM
To:
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: What's Blue?
Why did you have to cut open the filter to see what it was catching.
On my KLR A15 it looks like the dirty oil is on the outside of the
filter then passes through to the inside of the filter and out
through the cap and into the rest of the engine. I'm not 100% sure
about that but that's what I can remember.
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Zachariah Mully" wrote:
> Korg'ers-
> Changed my oil filter last night and decided to cut it open
and see what it
> had been catching. This filter had perhaps 2,000 miles on it (Mobil
1 red
> cap FYI), it was a BigK brand that the PO put in the day before I
bought the
> bike.
>
> Thanks.
> ------------------
> Zack
> SE DC
> KLR650A5 "Buster"
> ZG1000A1
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:55:08 -0500
From: "Robert J. Kaub"
Subject: Helmet Shelf Life
The recent discussion raises a question in my mind.
If indeed the styrofoam liner degrades over time, then it would be vital to
know the exact date of manufacture of a helmet. Helmets can sit on shelves
for a couple of years before purchase so it would be possible to buy a "new"
helmet that has already expended a very significant part of its useful life
before you put it on.
The only real way to know you are wearing a helmet with styrofoam that has
not degraded is to buy a new helmet every year. I wonder if manufacturers
would consider selling "liner upgrade kits" that could be installed by the
owner? So every year or so you could remove the existing liner and put in a
new one.
Thanks.
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 16:25:44 -0000
From: dnicholls@...
Subject: New Bike - Tools
Just purchased a new A15 and would like to know what tools you all
recommend that I carry. I looked at the tool kit that comes with the
bike and it looks real cheap. Any suggestions as well on suppliers.
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 16:28:47 -0000
From: dnicholls@...
Subject: Chain Oilers
I just bought an A15 and this is my first bike. I'm a little
concerned and nervious about oiling my chain. It seems that the chain
must be oiled very frequently. For example I plan on driving the bike
to work each day (100 Kms round trip). I have read about a scott
oiler and I'm wondering if anyone has any long term experience with
one and is it the right thing to do ?
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:47:28 -0800
From: "Rich Kickbush"
Subject: Re: Is 4" too big?
Hmm, I'd suggest you throw the bike on a milk crate or bike lift, pull the
caps and spacers (leave the springs in) and pull the tire up to max
compression. If you've mounted a 3" tube between the two bars of the highway
pegs it'll DEFINITELY hit in a static environment, let alone when its
flexing.
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: zootpatutie
To: Rich Kickbush ;
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 6:50 AM
Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Is 4" too big?
I have a 3" tube mounted to Tim's the engine guard of hiway pegs. I
noticed
rub marks on the tube last week, centered. Haven't noticed the tire
physically hitting the tube and am wondering if the depression isn't the
effect of cinder sandblasting. Might have to experiment with duct tape
over
the depression to see if it rubs off or is shredded.
Todd
A9
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Kickbush"
To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 2:11 AM
Subject: [DSN_klr650] Is 4" too big?
> Someone posted something a while ago about scraping their tool carrier
with their front tyre when it bottomed. Wondering if this means 4" sched.
40 ABS pipe would be too big in that case - mounting it with the MSR bash
plate and Tims highway pegs, pretty much in the middle of the two. My
dealer thinks the forks may flex a little, making measuring with the fork
springs out not totally accurate. Looking at it though, the closest a
tube
is going to come to the tire is at max compression, and I would expect the
least amount of flex then, as one tube is inside the other. I'm sure he's
on crack this time. Anyone know who it was that had a 4" rubbing and how
they had it mounted?
>
> Rich
> Circumference is everything...
>
> PS I know a lot of people have this mounted, but not too many bottom out
their forks too often.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
>
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@...
> Let's keep this list SPAM free!
>
> Visit our site at
http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>
DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:48:30 -0800
From: "Rich Kickbush"
Subject: Re: Helmet Shelf Life
I was under the impression that it was actually oils and sweat from the
user's head that degraded the styrofoam, not just time. If this is true,
you would have to take into account how much the helmet is used (and washed
- not that this would solve everything) - a daily commuter in a hot
environment should be replacing helmets more often than the weekend warrior.
The idea of a DIY kit for helmets would freak most safety engineers, I
think...
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert J. Kaub
To: KLR
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 7:55 AM
Subject: [DSN_klr650] Helmet Shelf Life
The recent discussion raises a question in my mind.
If indeed the styrofoam liner degrades over time, then it would be vital
to
know the exact date of manufacture of a helmet. Helmets can sit on
shelves
for a couple of years before purchase so it would be possible to buy a
"new"
helmet that has already expended a very significant part of its useful
life
before you put it on.
The only real way to know you are wearing a helmet with styrofoam that has
not degraded is to buy a new helmet every year. I wonder if manufacturers
would consider selling "liner upgrade kits" that could be installed by the
owner? So every year or so you could remove the existing liner and put in
a
new one.
Thanks.
Visit the KLR650 archives at
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@...
Let's keep this list SPAM free!
Visit our site at
http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 24
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 08:46:07 -0800
From: "L"
Subject: Shipping a bike
Hi
Depends if it will be crated or not- if crated you will need to remove all
fluids. Shipping for a KLR can go between $200 and $400 - I priced everyone
on the net (ok- not EVERYONE!) eventualy used shippingmasters.com -they give
you all the choices and then broker a deal with a reliable shipper - they
were the cheapest for me. Just my buffalo nickel's worth.
Cheers
Heavy L
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 04:59:48 -0000
From: eyemgh@...
Subject: Shipping a bike
If you have had any experience shipping a bike, I'd appreciate some
insight. How does the bike need to be prepped? Who is a reliable
shipper? How much should I expect to pay? Etc.? I plan on buying a new
(used, but new to me) bike. If I can't find one locally and flying/
riding doesn't work, I'll have to ship it. Thanks in advance for your
help.
M
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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:01:07 -0400
From: "Steve Pye"
Subject: Re: Chain Oilers
-----Original Message-----
From: dnicholls@...
To:
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, March 26, 2001 12:28 PM
> It seems that the chain
>must be oiled very frequently. I have read about a scott
>oiler and I'm wondering if anyone has any long term experience with
>one and is it the right thing to do ?
>
I've never used the scott oiler or any 'automatic' oiling system. Frequency
of chain oiling can depend on conditions during use. Are you driving on
pavement or gravel? A lot of mud or dry / dusty surface? General rule of
thumb is the worse the condition the more maintenance your chain will need.
I put over 8000 kms on my 93', only cleaned / oiled the chain about once a
week. I drive 50/50 gravel and pavement, chain and sprockets were in great
shape when I sold the bike.
I believe, however; that some folks here on the list use the scott oilers or
similar systems and have good results with them.
Good luck with your new KLR !
Cheers
Steve Pye
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