Wilsons Sandbox

I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My plan is to get the heavy spring from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on progressive springs for the forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front. I don't think I'll be keeping the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for something more street oriented next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it won't be much more then some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge emulators, or even the progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile investment if I sell the bike within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on the back, who is a much more manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over the lane markers. I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some advice on how deep I should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new chain and sprockets, valves and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be a nice bike ready to farkle for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the rear suspension after I get the spring in.

If you and gear are only 250# and you have very little interest in keeping the KLR, I'd ride it "as is" and sell it as soon as possible. You'll only get pennies on the dollar from any upgrade investment, so sell it and get what you really want. Life is too short. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "mptadam" wrote: > > I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My plan is to get the heavy spring > from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on progressive springs for the > forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front. I don't think I'll be keeping > the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for something more street oriented > next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it won't be much more then > some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. > > I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge emulators, or even the > progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile investment if I sell the bike > within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on the back, who is a much more > manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over the lane markers. > > I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some advice on how deep I > should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new chain and sprockets, valves > and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be a nice bike ready to farkle > for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the rear suspension after I get the > spring in. >

I would guess that your mods would depend on what your opinion of what a little money is. I weigh about 215 not allowing for any added gear, am pretty aggressive on and off road but also am selective where I would take a KLR.....read I avoid mud if at all possible My daughter who weighs probably around 110 makes a good passenger but that being said with any passenger on the back I dial it way back from how I would ride solo. Anyway with the stock shock and spring I had no problem getting enough preload to set my sag at 3", when it wears out I will replace it but so far it really isn't that bad. In the front I have Progressive springs and I believe 15w fork oil, I was looking for 10w but my regular dealer only had 15w in stock. The Progressive springs with the spacers that came with them gave me pretty much 3" of sag and transformed the front end. Much better on road as far as ride quality goes and much less dive and control when being aggressive and under braking on road and certainly much much happier off road. If your not going to keep the bike I would stop there, added stuff will never in my opinion pay for itself when you sell. I have ridden an older KZ with emulators and they were easily worth the money and time invested to set them up but I doubt you would recover what you spent on them. If I was only going to keep your KLR for say next summer I would put in the Progressive fork springs, a SS front brake line a good set of your favourite pads and set up the static sag on the rear shock and be happy with the 150 bucks you invested....Have a great evening....Greg

--- On Tue, 12/23/08, mptadam wrote: From: mptadam Subject: [DSN_KLR650] suspension upgrades for pavement To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Received: Tuesday, December 23, 2008, 5:18 PM I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My plan is to get the heavy spring from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on progressive springs for the forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front. I don't think I'll be keeping the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for something more street oriented next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it won't be much more then some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge emulators, or even the progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile investment if I sell the bike within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on the back, who is a much more manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over the lane markers. I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some advice on how deep I should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new chain and sprockets, valves and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be a nice bike ready to farkle for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the rear suspension after I get the spring in. __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

As I wrote the post, "little" became smaller and smaller. I think your suggestion sounds pretty good/reasonable actually, ss line, pads, springs and heavier oil. I've done the dump a ton of money into something and then lose it all when you sell it route a few times before with 4 wheeled vehicles, my most recent being a Jeep turned rock buggy that I'm still trying to sell. I'm working my way through bikes right now trying to find my ideal, my first being a 74 TX 500 in cafe trim, and second being this. I'm getting closer, but also understanding the reasoning behind multiple bikes

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Greg May wrote: > > I would guess that your mods would depend on what your opinion of what a little money is. I weigh about 215 not allowing for any added gear, am pretty aggressive on and off road but also am selective where I would take a KLR.....read I avoid mud if at all possible My daughter who weighs probably around 110 makes a good passenger but that being said with any passenger on the back I dial it way back from how I would ride solo. Anyway with the stock shock and spring I had no problem getting enough preload to set my sag at 3", when it wears out I will replace it but so far it really isn't that bad. In the front I have Progressive springs and I believe 15w fork oil, I was looking for 10w but my regular dealer only had 15w in stock. The Progressive springs with the spacers that came with them gave me pretty much 3" of sag and transformed the front end. Much better on road as far as ride quality goes and much less dive and control when being > aggressive and under braking on road and certainly much much happier off road. If your not going to keep the bike I would stop there, added stuff will never in my opinion pay for itself when you sell. I have ridden an older KZ with emulators and they were easily worth the money and time invested to set them up but I doubt you would recover what you spent on them. > If I was only going to keep your KLR for say next summer I would put in the Progressive fork springs, a SS front brake line a good set of your favourite pads and set up the static sag on the rear shock and be happy with the 150 bucks you invested....Have a great evening....Greg > > --- On Tue, 12/23/08, mptadam wrote: > > From: mptadam > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] suspension upgrades for pavement > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Received: Tuesday, December 23, 2008, 5:18 PM > > > > > > > I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My plan is to get the heavy spring > from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on progressive springs for the > forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front. I don't think I'll be keeping > the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for something more street oriented > next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it won't be much more then > some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. > > I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge emulators, or even the > progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile investment if I sell the bike > within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on the back, who is a much more > manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over the lane markers. > > I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some advice on how deep I > should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new chain and sprockets, valves > and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be a nice bike ready to farkle > for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the rear suspension after I get the > spring in. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________ > Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! > > http://www.flickr.com/gift/ > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

Perhaps progressive spring in the fork tubes, but honestly flush that fish oil Big K pours in the forks with something more inline to being fork oil, pretty sure I used 10w and find it fine, in stock form I can hammer this bike pretty hard offroad, but yes fork dive sucks, but do not find it that bad myself. Dial the rear preload up and dial in the rebound and try it, it cost nothing and can easily be set back. I will install SS lines when the OEM are toast, but I can drag the rear wheel on any surface in stock form, so why make it worse my thoughts. Front I admit is weak, but with a D606 again can scare myself in stock form so why bother my thoughts. Doohickey yes I agree, just for "Peace of Mind" Subframe bolts I did swap with something Jake (RIP) tossed in with the Doohickey, again mostly here make sure they are tight, loose=Bad. I ran 2 up when I was about 220 and the wife on the back of course she is alot less than 220 and thats when I really noticed the weaker front brake, but could still deal with the rear in stock form. Its a KLR, it does nothing great, but does just about everything just fine. Tires make or break a bike depending on the road/trail conditions. Stock were scary offroad on anything damp/wet IMHO, but dry hardpack where fine, sand they sucked. Myself I like the Kenda K-270's, and will continue to put on the bike for my riding styles ( I like Dirt ) currently have a Dunlop D606 on the front and like it also, but it costs more, but seems to be wearing pretty good. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "mptadam" wrote: > > I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My plan is to get the heavy spring > from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on progressive springs for the > forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front. I don't think I'll be keeping > the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for something more street oriented > next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it won't be much more then > some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. > > I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge emulators, or even the > progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile investment if I sell the bike > within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on the back, who is a much more > manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over the lane markers. > > I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some advice on how deep I > should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new chain and sprockets, valves > and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be a nice bike ready to farkle > for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the rear suspension after I get the > spring in. >

A buddy of mine has the 650 Suzuki V-Strum (the 1000s are too big) and I'd say it is a 70/30% - 80/20% road/dirt bike, which sounds like the direction you seem to be leaning. I can't keep up with him on gravel roads (better than me) and I can't keep up with him on hard roads (crazier than me) but that bike works well for him. He does 15,000 miles a year (retired and has 50K on it now) and he takes trips from Pennsylvania to Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, as well as up and down the east coast. Its not an expensive bike either, a good performer with the two-cyl design, and only had one major repair that required the dealer. With only 4-5 months to go before summer 2009 and that is when you want to change bikes anyway, why spend a dime on the KLR and then sell it? Yes, I'd change oil/filter and keep air in the tires. Is it going to stay in the family? Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "mptadam" wrote: > > I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My plan is to get the heavy spring > from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on progressive springs for the > forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front. I don't think I'll be keeping > the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for something more street oriented > next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it won't be much more then > some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. > > I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge emulators, or even the > progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile investment if I sell the bike > within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on the back, who is a much more > manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over the lane markers. > > I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some advice on how deep I > should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new chain and sprockets, valves > and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be a nice bike ready to farkle > for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the rear suspension after I get the > spring in. >

I just went for a ride through the woods and on a muddy dirt trail with my newly installed 13T front sprocket. Conclusion: It still woun't go slow enough. I can see I just woun't get that walking pace granny gear out of the KLR. That said, the KLR650 is my favorite bike I ever owned. On road or off road it's a great beater. Sure, I would like a smooth big highway cruiser for the occasional road trip, and a 250cc dirt bike. But I don't want two bikes, and when the urge hits me, I'll probably be on the wrong bike. For a one motorcycle man, I have fun on the KLR, and thats what I want a motorcycle for. Merry Christmas Craig Kahler

--- On Tue, 12/23/08, Dooden wrote: From: Dooden Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: suspension upgrades for pavement To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, December 23, 2008, 10:47 PM Perhaps progressive spring in the fork tubes, but honestly flush that fish oil Big K pours in the forks with something more inline to being fork oil, pretty sure I used 10w and find it fine, in stock form I can hammer this bike pretty hard offroad, but yes fork dive sucks, but do not find it that bad myself. Dial the rear preload up and dial in the rebound and try it, it cost nothing and can easily be set back. I will install SS lines when the OEM are toast, but I can drag the rear wheel on any surface in stock form, so why make it worse my thoughts. Front I admit is weak, but with a D606 again can scare myself in stock form so why bother my thoughts. Doohickey yes I agree, just for "Peace of Mind" Subframe bolts I did swap with something Jake (RIP) tossed in with the Doohickey, again mostly here make sure they are tight, loose=Bad. I ran 2 up when I was about 220 and the wife on the back of course she is alot less than 220 and thats when I really noticed the weaker front brake, but could still deal with the rear in stock form. Its a KLR, it does nothing great, but does just about everything just fine. Tires make or break a bike depending on the road/trail conditions. Stock were scary offroad on anything damp/wet IMHO, but dry hardpack where fine, sand they sucked. Myself I like the Kenda K-270's, and will continue to put on the bike for my riding styles ( I like Dirt ) currently have a Dunlop D606 on the front and like it also, but it costs more, but seems to be wearing pretty good. Dooden A15 Green Ape --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "mptadam" wrote: > > I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My plan is to get the heavy spring > from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on progressive springs for the > forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front. I don't think I'll be keeping > the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for something more street oriented > next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it won't be much more then > some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. > > I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge emulators, or even the > progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile investment if I sell the bike > within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on the back, who is a much more > manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over the lane markers. > > I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some advice on how deep I > should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new chain and sprockets, valves > and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be a nice bike ready to farkle > for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the rear suspension after I get the > spring in. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I went for the 650 VStrom. I use the DL650 and KLR650 as commuters so I get to compare them both a few times a week. The DL650 is orders of magnitude better on the road than the KLR650. My wife never liked to ride on the back of the KLR but asks to go out on rides on the VStrom. I'm only keeping the KLR to carry my mountain bike (http://tinyurl.com/7x84hs) and the possibility of a future TAT ride. If it weren't for that I'd probably sell it - or maybe not. Mike A18 From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Spike55 Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 10:31 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: suspension upgrades for pavement A buddy of mine has the 650 Suzuki V-Strum (the 1000s are too big) and I'd say it is a 70/30% - 80/20% road/dirt bike, which sounds like the direction you seem to be leaning. I can't keep up with him on gravel roads (better than me) and I can't keep up with him on hard roads (crazier than me) but that bike works well for him. He does 15,000 miles a year (retired and has 50K on it now) and he takes trips from Pennsylvania to Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, as well as up and down the east coast. Its not an expensive bike either, a good performer with the two-cyl design, and only had one major repair that required the dealer. With only 4-5 months to go before summer 2009 and that is when you want to change bikes anyway, why spend a dime on the KLR and then sell it? Yes, I'd change oil/filter and keep air in the tires. Is it going to stay in the family? Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , "mptadam" wrote:

> > I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My

plan is to get the heavy spring

> from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on

progressive springs for the

> forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front.

I don't think I'll be keeping

> the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for

something more street oriented

> next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it

won't be much more then

> some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. > > I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge

emulators, or even the

> progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile

investment if I sell the bike

> within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on

the back, who is a much more

> manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over

the lane markers.

> > I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some

advice on how deep I

> should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new

chain and sprockets, valves

> and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be

a nice bike ready to farkle

> for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the

rear suspension after I get the

> spring in. >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My neighbor has the 650 VStrom and I have ridden it for 30-40 miles on road. It is amazingly good on the road for what it is. I usually ride a BMW RT and it's certainly not an RT, but it is more road oriented than the KLR by far. I am considering one in my future but would not take it to some of the KLR roads I've taken. db ________________________________ From: Spike55 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 9:30:44 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: suspension upgrades for pavement A buddy of mine has the 650 Suzuki V-Strum (the 1000s are too big) and I'd say it is a 70/30% - 80/20% road/dirt bike, which sounds like the direction you seem to be leaning. I can't keep up with him on gravel roads (better than me) and I can't keep up with him on hard roads (crazier than me) but that bike works well for him. He does 15,000 miles a year (retired and has 50K on it now) and he takes trips from Pennsylvania to Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, as well as up and down the east coast. Its not an expensive bike either, a good performer with the two-cyl design, and only had one major repair that required the dealer. With only 4-5 months to go before summer 2009 and that is when you want to change bikes anyway, why spend a dime on the KLR and then sell it? Yes, I'd change oil/filter and keep air in the tires. Is it going to stay in the family? Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "mptadam" wrote: > > I'm ready to put a little money into the suspension, a little. My plan is to get the heavy spring > from Top Gun, but I'm unsure if I should spend the money on progressive springs for the > forks, cartridge emulators, or just heavier fork oil for the front. I don't think I'll be keeping > the KLR for years and years, honestly I'll likely trade it for something more street oriented > next summer. I haven't made it to the dirt yet, and when I do, it won't be much more then > some high desert riding or some wide, graded trail riding. > > I don't need the Moab rear shock, and I don't know if the cartridge emulators, or even the > progressive fork springs for that matter will be a worthwhile investment if I sell the bike > within a year. I'm 250 plus gear, and I'd like to put my wife on the back, who is a much more > manageable weight I just don't want to bottom out riding over the lane markers. > > I know I'm already undersprung in the back, just looking for some advice on how deep I > should go into the fork. Corbin seat, doohickey, fresh tires, new chain and sprockets, valves > and subframe bolt are handled or in the process of being...It'll be a nice bike ready to farkle > for someone, but I'd like to tune the front a little closer to the rear suspension after I get the > spring in. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Craig Kahler wrote:

> > I just went for a ride through the woods and on a muddy dirt trail

with my newly installed 13T front sprocket. Conclusion: It still woun't go slow enough. I can see I just woun't get that walking pace granny gear out of the KLR.

> That said, the KLR650 is my favorite bike I ever owned. On road or

off road it's a great beater.

> Sure, I would like a smooth big highway cruiser for the occasional

road trip, and a 250cc dirt bike. But I don't want two bikes, and when the urge hits me, I'll probably be on the wrong bike.

> For a one motorcycle man, I have fun on the KLR, and thats what I

want a motorcycle for.

> > Merry Christmas > Craig Kahler >

Hi Craig-- Just how slow do you want to go!?!?!? ;~P If it is that muddy, I hope you have a riding partner. You must be riding some wicked single track/cow-trails. Bad to assume, but I am guessing you are using 13/43 combination-- and if that assumption is correct: You next easy adjustment/choice (for US riders) is the 45 or 47T rear- -combined with a 13T front, you will be able to go re-e-e-el-l-l-l slow on the trail and about 53.2 mph at 6500rpms. (just guessing about the 53.2mph--but it will be pretty close....)If it is real slow you want, I would not even bother with the 45 and go straight to the 47. Gear ratios: (divide the little number into the big) 15/43 = 2.866; 13/43 = 3.308; 13/47 = 3.615. Going to the 13/47 from 13/43 is 8.5% lower and a whopping 20.8% lower than OEM 15/43. If you need to go slower than that, you might be on the wrong bike (as you suggested). Isn't it fun to wrestle a pig! On one KLR, I run a 14/16-46 (108-link chain) combination which at 16/46 is equivalent to the stock 15/43, slipping on the 14T for the lower gearing needed--which would also allow me to go to 13T as well-- which I have not needed yet. However, on the next trip to the Black Hills to ride some to the more 'gentle' jeep trails, I will slip the 13T on as well. Jeff Saline and I rode down the 'Piedmont Trail' into Piedmont, SD last spring and it made the locals just shake their heads when we got to the bottom of the hill--both equipped with the 14/46 combinations--and we only had a few scary moments due to not being able to go slow enough. We would not have dared tried that on a 15/43 combination--and it would have been a lot of work at 14/43. As I recall, I only slipped the clutch once, and that was because I was being roosted by 'the other guy' who had the GPS-lead through the mountains. I keep the c/s sprockets in the tank bag for adjustments/conditions as necessary. ~20 minutes, we got a gear change. On my other KLR, I run the 13/14/15-43 (106 link chain)combinations-- rarely using the 15T anymore, usually just the 13 and 14T unless I am going to go more than 100 smiles of slab. I live 47 miles East or 70 miles West of a town of significant size. Last summer on the GDR, the two KLR's using the same 13/43 were still getting 50+mpg at speeds up to 50mph traveling gravel roads, etc. The JT 46T seems to be only available through dealers in Australia, and I presume, UK. For those thinking about having more low end grunt, the 'chase' for a 46T is hardly worth the effort when you can get the 45 or 47 from US suppliers. Just decide if you want more low end, or more-more low end with some sacrifice to top end with RPM's less than 6,500. NOTE: I believe you are able to use the 106 link chain for the 45T-- but others that have actually done it, need to say so. The 46 needed the 108 link chain, as well as the 47 rear sprocket. As for me, the sprocket change make the KLR650 dual-sport, more sporting in the areas where I ride. Now, if those sprocket changes would only make it easier to pick up. Merry Christmas to all. revmaaatin.