set of klr wheels & tires for sale (a14)

DSN_KLR650
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klrjohn650
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2008 5:53 pm

camshaft timing question

Post by klrjohn650 » Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:01 am

When I replaced the camshafts after adjusting my valve lash, the intake side would not line up even with the top of the engine. The arrow was pointing a little up and the tail was a little hidden beneath the top of the casting. When I put it a tooth counterclockwise, the arrow was pointed too far down. I figured, as the chain wears, it would stretch, leaving the arrow pointing a little up. So, that's the way I installed it. My question is: What are the symptoms of an intake cam that is slightly retarded v. slightly advanced? After reassembling the bike, the engine feels like it's loading up until it's fully warmed. It never used to do this. Do I need to advance the intake cam a tooth? TIA, John

klrjohn650
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2008 5:53 pm

camshaft timing question

Post by klrjohn650 » Wed Dec 17, 2008 12:23 pm

The bike is a '96 A-10. Mileage is 42,000 miles. The engine, gearing, exhaust are all stock. Both side covers were taken off about 6 months and 3,000 miles ago to replace the clutch and clutch springs, change the 'doo, and clean the oil screen. The only change between noticing the power drop when cold and now is the valve lash adjustment and possibly a change in the intake camshaft timing (I forgot to make note of the camshaft position prior to removing them). Intake valve lash for both valves were in spec but on the tight side; exhaust lash was out of spec (tight) on both. Both intake and exhaust were set to 0.008" clearance nominal. All measurements were made 3X, with the camshaft caps torqued to spec and the crank rotated 2x min between measurements. Thanks, John
On Tue, Dec 16, 2008 at 11:50 PM, tomatocity wrote: Tell us more about your KLR, year, mileage, what improvements have you done to it, have you ever had the side covers off, have you ever worked on the timing? --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klrjohn650" wrote: > > When I replaced the camshafts after adjusting my valve lash, the intake side would not line > up even with the top of the engine. The arrow was pointing a little up and the tail was a little > hidden beneath the top of the casting. When I put it a tooth counterclockwise, the arrow was > pointed too far down. I figured, as the chain wears, it would stretch, leaving the arrow > pointing a little up. So, that's the way I installed it. > > My question is: What are the symptoms of an intake cam that is slightly retarded v. slightly > advanced? After reassembling the bike, the engine feels like it's loading up until it's fully > warmed. It never used to do this. Do I need to advance the intake cam a tooth? > > TIA, > John >

Dochstader
Posts: 19
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2001 5:42 am

camshaft timing question

Post by Dochstader » Thu Dec 18, 2008 6:54 pm

Check the timing marks, it is easy to get them wrong. If you do get them wrong, the bike will start and idle fine, but it will be rally sleepy @ road speeds. El Mur Kamloops, B.C. Canada. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Spike55
Posts: 267
Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 2:22 pm

camshaft timing question

Post by Spike55 » Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:47 am

The one thing that I noticed which could make a difference was the cam chain tension. I've done this 4x (multiple KLRs) now and the timing marks seem to line up better if I 'loosely' reinstall the spring-loaded tensioner to take all of the slack out of the chain. Originally I noticed a slight +/- on the timing marks when attempted w/o slight but consistant chain tension. This works for me but of course make sure that the flywheel is properly oriented to start off the whole process on the right foot. Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klrjohn650" wrote:
> > When I replaced the camshafts after adjusting my valve lash, the
intake side would not line
> up even with the top of the engine. The arrow was pointing a
little up and the tail was a little
> hidden beneath the top of the casting. When I put it a tooth
counterclockwise, the arrow was
> pointed too far down. I figured, as the chain wears, it would
stretch, leaving the arrow
> pointing a little up. So, that's the way I installed it. > > My question is: What are the symptoms of an intake cam that is
slightly retarded v. slightly
> advanced? After reassembling the bike, the engine feels like it's
loading up until it's fully
> warmed. It never used to do this. Do I need to advance the intake
cam a tooth?
> > TIA, > John >

John
Posts: 121
Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2005 10:15 am

set of klr wheels & tires for sale (a14)

Post by John » Fri Dec 19, 2008 1:01 pm

I have an extra set of wheels (bought from tengai mark about two years ago- I think they are from a 2000 model). My intention was to have two sets of wheels/tires for road and dirt but I bought a Wee- Strom last year and after almost two years they are still sitting in the garage never installed on the bike. Includes- - The wheels (one spoke was replaced) - A set of IRC GP1's (rear is virtually new & front is about half worn but turned around to wear the other side of the knobs). - Heavy duty tubes. - Rim Locks. - Brake disks (but not the rear sprocket or carrier). Everything is mounted and balanced and ready to go. I have never used them, so I can't really say how they work. I am looking for $450 for the pair. You can E-Mail me at shipsurveyor@... for pictures. If you are interested, I can ship them for whatever the post office or UPS charges or you can pick them up in Houston. Paypal only for shipping or cash for pick up please.

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