Wilsons Sandbox

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Al Cooper" wrote:

> > I am preparing my 04 KLR for a trip down the GDT next summer and in

my

> reading of others adventures and read of several who have

experienced clutch

> failure on this ride. Is there a time when need to be replaced or

is the

> failures mentioned due to abuse. In other words, should I replace

my

> 20,000+ clutch as a precautionary move? >

Al, You are perhaps referring to my own experience last summer.... Jud has mentioned that a new one could be in as much trouble as a used one...if presented the right conditions--which I completely concur. Bottom line first: Unless your bike has issues now, it is not something that I would do in advance. And now to make the short answer much longer, cough. John's bike blew the clutch out because the back tire loaded up with gumbo, and he was desperate to pull through the bog, --he did not realize he was not turning the tire as the engine was still reving. ie slipping/burning up the clutch. Understand a sane person under normal circumstances 'might' immediatelty recognize the problem. Now think of having had as many as 6 bike drops in sticky gumbo during the past 3 hours--you begin to see/experience the necessity of trying to free yourself of this nightmare. I got through/out of the bog, John limped out of the worst part of it before the bike gave up the 'clutch-ghost'. We are now some 100 yds apart...and the wind is picking up, I believe there were snow pellets and it is past nautical twilight. We set up our tents in the middle of this sticky mess (in the least sticky place we could find) where every step had 1" of mud clinging to your boot. It was a fitful night--yeah, it was a dark and stormy night.... The next morning, we both had had to dig a huge load of gumbo, the consistency of play-dough out of our drive train--remembering that both of us have ridden through all the same stuff. My bike has some 27K miles on it, John' bike has ~7K as I recall. How much mud did we accumulate? Easily 40# or more. I was using a K270, John was using D606. The clay would stick to the tire and roll up like a ribbon, load up the tire, and then trapping itself first at the swing arm, against the shock and eventually against the chain and upward to the inner fender. The mud was at least 4" deep inside the rim. John's bike was much the same. When I finally cleared the life sucking mud from the drive train (1.5-2 hours of digging) the seat of the pants, pit in the middle of your stomach feelings suggested that my clutch was not as strong as it was earlier that same day. Cowboy rescue via 4x4 ford F150, 60 miles to Riverton, WY, we get to see John's damaged clutch. I recall 5 of the metal spacers were discolored, the whole mess 'stunk' of burning, and I think 3 of the clutch disc's were without any clutch material. and The clutch springs-- what clutch springs? Ah, Nothing VISA won't fix. Most excellent service at Wild West Motorsports, Riverton, WY! Based on what I saw, experienced as well, I took the 'high' road of caution and ordered OEM clutch parts through Jeff Saline at the Rapid City, Kawi dealer. Fast forward to Rapid City, some 14 days later. I tore down the clutch assembly (and cleaned the screen!) under the supervision of Jeff Saline--having clutch plates and metal spacers on hand for a complete replacement. Not one clutch plate failed 'spec' for thickness or any metal spacer failed for warpage tolerance as measured on a granite inspection plate. One plate was slightly discolored (heated) and should have been replaced. The interesting thing, was that the clutch spring were all .050 less than the new springs. Did I do that? or was it normal wear and tear? Of all the things 'necessary for replacement were the springs, and one metal spacer for discoloration. The high road suggested--hard use, soft-feeling clutch--it is all torn down--install the new OEM parts. So we did. There was a noticeable difference in having a new clutch, vs a 29K mile clutch. My other KLR has 25K on it. It will go on the GDR in two years from now with my son--no mods to the clutch before we go--unless something drastic happens between now and then. Got to go--kids music concert in 10 minutes. revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Al Cooper" wrote:

> > Thanks Jeff, I have a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket that I am

planning on

> using. > Al Cooper > Medina, Ohio

Hi Al, You can go one better and use a 13T/43T combination. It is perfect for 90% of the GDR and we still had times that we averaged 50-54mpg when we were riding no faster than 45ish average speed. 3 of the KLR's we were riding with switched to the 13T and were forever glad (well, at least until we were done with the GDR) they had followed that advice--I can't ever remember needing to slip the clutch to do what I was wanting to do. The only downside: For sections of highway, we were hitting 6200-6500 rpms at 65+mphgps (as I recall) but that is no big deal. Just watch for increased oil consumption above 6K rpms for extended periods. Ride to the trail head on the 15/43 and switch out to the 13T. 2004: I (and 3 other KLR's) used the 14T/43 when Jeff (using a 14/46) and I rode together and was only one day later that I was wishing for a 13T. Jeff's secret solution--that 14/46T 108link chain combination that we use (my second KLR is set up that way), switching to 16Tcs46 = ratio of the OEM 15/43 for long periods of slab. Unfortunately, that JT 46T combination is only available through a store in Australia, or if a friend will mail you one from there. Sprocket ratios: If you do the math, a 13/43 ratio= 3.307 and a 14/46 gives 3.28 ratio. a stock15/43 ratio= 2.866. As you can see, for $20, a 13/43 gives you a 14.4% lower 1st gear, and you don't have to buy a larger 45 or 47T rear that is available in the USA. With the 13 T combination, you truly have that grunt 1st gear, which is more useful than at higher 5th gear. As you probably know, it only takes about 20 minutes to do a CS change, and by now, you are doing it in your sleep! We are blessed that we have that 13/14/15 sprocket available to us to do those kind of things. How much better is a 13/43 over a 14/43 combination? About 3 light years. As a side benefit, the 13/43 combination might keep you from 'riding to fast'. There is an old axiom, "You can never fall down, slow enough" and you are going to fall down. revmaaatin.

On Wed, 10 Dec 2008 03:04:02 -0000 "revmaaatin" writes:

> Hi Al, > You can go one better and use a 13T/43T combination. It is perfect > > for 90% of the GDR

SNIP

> How much better is a 13/43 over a 14/43 combination? > About 3 light years. > > As a side benefit, the 13/43 combination might keep you from 'riding > > to fast'. > > There is an old axiom, > "You can never fall down, slow enough" > > and you are going to fall down. > > revmaaatin.

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Martin, Well Said!!!! If I was doing my KLR gearing all over again I'd be trying the 13/43 combo before I changed the rear sprocket. I know some folks will tell you the 13 tooth will cause premature chain wear/failure. But I've never heard anyone who has first hand experience with the 13 tooth front sprocket say the same thing. I've been using the 14/46 combo exclusively for the past 2 1/2 years with the exception of using a 16/46 combo for the ride home from De Tour in 2006. That two day ride from Albuquerque, New Mexico was all pavement through the high country of NM, CO, WY and into the Black Hills and home. The 16/46 combo put me right next to the stock ratio of the 15/43 combo. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Click for online loan, fast & no lender fee, approval today http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2P5sLRedPFIFIakVtNIAWzhfMGdnSiQeRS1JNS8eJr3fBkQ/