Wilsons Sandbox

It shouldn't move enough to be obvious, unless it's extremely loose. How many miles are on your bike? Devon wa4tij wrote:

> > All, > > No engine noise or problems, but out of curiosity, I pulled the > magneto cover to look at the doohickey. > > I saw no pieces but when the bolt is loosened, the doohicky doesn't > move. I removed the bolt and the doohicky still doesn't move. > > I thought this thing is spring loaded. Shouldn't it move? Do I need > to remove the magneto? > > Thanks > > Robert A14 > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

On Thu, 18 Dec 2003, Don Sprinkle wrote:

> Of all you guys who have done the doohickey swap, have any of you > used a 3/4" socket on the large rotor bolt instead of a 19mm? My > chart shows the 3/4" as being only .002" larger than the 19mm but the > biggest difference is I actually have a 1/2" drive, 3/4" deep well > socket and my 19mm is thin-walled and only a 3/8" drive. My breaker > bar is 3/4" drive; should I go to the pawn shop and find a large 19mm > socket? Thanks.

Pretty late reply to this, but I have been rather slow in keeping up to date in the group. I used a 3/4" socket that was a 3/8" drive type. I have both 19mm and 3/4", both are for 3/8" drive. I used the 3/4" since it is a 6 point where the 19mm is a 12 point (if that is the right term). I figured that the 3/4" fit with less chance of slipping and stripping the head of the bolt. All went well using this technique on both mine and my wife's A16's. As to the details of the jobs; both bikes were right around 6000 miles. Neither had damage to lever or spring. On hers I was more careful to notice how much tension was left in the original spring and it looked like there was no spring tension left. So, with 2 adjustments done so far, it is clear that on that bike it would have been best to not do any more adjusting if the parts were not going to be replaced. But I would not have opened the bike without replacing the parts, so would not have known that the spring had reached the end of it's travel. So, bottom line is that I am happy I did not wait to do the job. -- Doug Herr doug@...

you gotta rotate the motor over many times, eventually the silver links will line up with respective timing marks.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Ron" wrote: > When I was reassembling things after installing the new balancer adjuster > and oil screen inspection etc., I noticed that the 'silver' balancer chain > links did not match up with anything yet all the location marks and painted > sprocket teeth seemed to be in the right place when I rolled the engine to > TDC. As far as I know the bike had never been opened up before I got it. > Just to be safe I carefully went thought the procedure to be certain the > balancer assembly was perfectly calibrated - according to the manual. > Has anyone else noted this? The bike ran fine prior to this even thought my > lever spring was broken. > Perhaps my A-16 was assemble on a Monday or Friday? > Ron in Montana > A-16 > A-8 > H-D Road Toad