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wobble
Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2000 12:02 am
by Tumu Rock
On Wed, 6 Sep 2000 10:50:40 -0700, Dale_Johnson@... wrote:
It's side to side wobble, how do i tighten the steering stem bearings?
You have to remove the handlebars and then loosen the steering head bearing.
(that big ol' nut right under the handlebars). The steering stem bearing is
the part directly under the top triple clamp. There is a special tool that a
lot of people recommend you get to tighten the bearing, but I just used a
screw driver and tapped lightly on a hammer to tighten it. The bearing has 4
notches around the outside you can use for this purpose.
Ideally you want to have the front of the bike supported off the ground and
you tighten the bearing until there is no play in the forks if you are
kneeling in front of the bike and pulling in a front to back motion. The
bearings are too tight if the wheel won't turn from side to side with just
the force of gravity.
Unfortunately for me the milk crate I stole was collapsing under the weight
of the bike, so I just tightened a little at a time and checked for
tightness by re-installing the handlebars and grabbing the front brake and
pushing down. If the clunk I used to hear going over potholes was still
there, I undid everything and tightened some more. Once the clunk was gone,
I put the bars back on and took it for a test ride...voila!!!!
dat brooklyn bum
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wobble
Posted: Mon May 14, 2001 11:23 am
by Chris Krok
> >From reading about how funny the bike handling gets when the front is
> nosed-down a little, I've been wondering if maybe having the back end
> UP a little too much can also cause funny wobbles. I run zero
> preload in the back. Could too much preload also cause funny
> handling?
I just put the Works Performance shock on my bike, and noticed a little
wobble in the front. I never measured the sag with the stocker (ran it
at preload 4), but with the Works I set it at around 3". (They
recommend 1/3 the total travel.) I just take this as a sign that my
bike is eager to get in the tight stuff...

c
--
Dr. J. Christopher Krok Project Engineer, Adaptive Wall Wind Tunnel
Graduate Aeronautical Laboratories, California Institute of Technology
MS 205-45 Phone: 626.395.4794
Pasadena, CA 91125 Fax: 626.449.2677
wobble
Posted: Mon May 14, 2001 2:31 pm
by Toby Slide Lampson
Chris Krok wrote:
> > >From reading about how funny the bike handling gets when the front is
> > nosed-down a little, I've been wondering if maybe having the back end
> > UP a little too much can also cause funny wobbles. I run zero
> > preload in the back. Could too much preload also cause funny
> > handling?
Yes, with the front forks flush with the triple tree.....a rear end in the
rightspot will permit the wobbles......and in my view lowering the rear(via
any or any number of the possible means) will cure it.....
Adjusting preload will effect sag. I've heard 2'-2 1/2" sag recommended
from; Elden Carl adamantly, 3" sag by Stig Petterson.
With adding Preload on a straight wound spring at first the the ride height
will get taller(that's with your on the bike)....then at a certain point it
will
start to decrease again......With a variable rate spring, height will
increase
period(for practical reasons)......In either case the more sag the less
functional travel..... Slide out
wobble
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 2:36 pm
by t_u_s_k_y
Hi guys and gals.
I recently bought a new KLR and I'm having some bad wobbling from
the front wheel at around 130 km/h. It's left to right, like a tank
slap and isn't much fun at all. Any ideas on how I can sort this?
wobble
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 10:46 pm
by kdxkawboy@aol.com
In a message dated 2004-05-10 12:37:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
t_u_s_k_y@... writes:
>
> Hi guys and gals.
> I recently bought a new KLR and I'm having some bad wobbling from
> the front wheel at around 130 km/h. It's left to right, like a tank
> slap and isn't much fun at all. Any ideas on how I can sort this?
>
>
Have you checked the steering head bearing? It might be too loose.
Pat
G'ville, Nv
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
wobble
Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2004 9:00 pm
by Randall Marbach
Hi Jake
I am running about 27psi front and 25 psi rear. Today,
I put another 1/4 turn down on the steering head
bearing nut... I think it seemed better ... 80
indicated was better, seemed to move to 85 indicated.
HTH
Randy
--- Dave Jakeman wrote:
> OEM tires can run @ 36 PSI at those speeds. If your
> route has coarse
> rain grooves; the front tire could track them....
>
> Jake
www.sagebrushmachine.com
>
>
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wobble
Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2004 9:32 pm
by Chris
I run 36psi Rear and 32psi front on the stock tires. When I first got
the bike it had pressure in the twenties and it felt really squirrely
at speed and really awful over steel grates. Air pressure really
helped.
I also had almost no resistance at the steering head at all, it would
pretty much flop side to side. I snugged that sucker down so there is
some nice light tension in it, that also made a nice difference. I
put just enough tension so that it will hold position on the lift, a
light drag.
After that, I noticed my triple clamps were unevenly tight, some of
the bolts were just barely tensioned at all. After properly torquing
them all down carefully to spec, it was even better.
The final improvement was adding the LR springs to the forks, it
tightened up the bike significantly and it now handles all manner of
highway bumps, where before I would be all over the road.
On Sat, Jul 24, 2004 at 07:00:34PM -0700, Randall Marbach wrote:
> Hi Jake
>
> I am running about 27psi front and 25 psi rear. Today,
> I put another 1/4 turn down on the steering head
> bearing nut... I think it seemed better ... 80
> indicated was better, seemed to move to 85 indicated.
>
> HTH
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> --- Dave Jakeman wrote:
> > OEM tires can run @ 36 PSI at those speeds. If your
> > route has coarse
> > rain grooves; the front tire could track them....
> >
> > Jake
www.sagebrushmachine.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
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wobble
Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 5:59 pm
by stevedyer
Changing the D607s to TKC80s has resulted in a wobble at highway speeds.
Begins oscillation of about 1/2 second at ~70mph indicated, growing in
amplitude as the speedo passes 75mph. Similar symptoms with air pressure
in both tires at 26 and with pressure bumpedup to 35.5; maybe slightly less
at the higher pressure. This did not exist with the D607s. Have any of
you experienced similar issues with this type of tire? I don't remember
seeing mention of it here.
Steve
A13
are the valves on klr650 normally noisey / tick ?
Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:09 am
by Arden Kysely
The KLR's engine isn't known for being quiet and you're not the first
to be concerned with its various ticks and taps. A very slight
ticking is probably nothing to worry about. And at the front right in
the valve train is the KACR device that reduces compression for
starting the bike, so that could be what you're hearing.
I would keep the oil (any good oil will do, Shell Rotella T 15W-40
has a good following here, you do NOT need to use Kawi oil) topped up
and enjoy the ride. And while you're enjoying it, keep your ears open
for a change in sounds. That's when you might want to worry. If you
get a chance, ride or listen to other KLRs. It might ease your mind.
__Arden
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "serverman2k"
wrote:
>
> Hi I recently purchased a 04 KLR 650 with supposedly 900 miles. The
> bike looks new and is clean. I felt as though the valve train was
> slightly noisy so I checked the valve clearances.
> Both intake valves are 4 thousands (bottom of spec)
> Exhaust valves measure 7 and 8 thousands.
>
> The cam looked to be in good shape with no marks and or burning and
> or excessive wear.
>
>
> I have changed the oil the bike came with, the oil was very black.
> I did not have a new filter so I reused the old filter and put in
> some good grade Castrol.
>
> I still feel the bike has a very very slight ticking at idle, it
> seems to be coming from the front right area (exhaust side)
>
> Is this normal for the bike?
>
> Is this due to the oil and or filter?
>
> Do I need to use Kawasaki oil?
>
> Is their a know issue with the Cam retarded and or cam retarder
> spring?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Ed
>