are the valves on klr650 normally noisey / tick ?

[Tumu Rock]

On Wed, 6 Sep 2000 10:50:40 -0700, Dale_Johnson@... wrote: It's side to side wobble, how do i tighten the steering stem bearings? You have to remove the handlebars and then loosen the steering head bearing. (that big ol' nut right under the handlebars). The steering stem bearing is the part directly under the top triple clamp. There is a special tool that a lot of people recommend you get to tighten the bearing, but I just used a screw driver and tapped lightly on a hammer to tighten it. The bearing has 4 notches around the outside you can use for this purpose. Ideally you want to have the front of the bike supported off the ground and you tighten the bearing until there is no play in the forks if you are kneeling in front of the bike and pulling in a front to back motion. The bearings are too tight if the wheel won't turn from side to side with just the force of gravity. Unfortunately for me the milk crate I stole was collapsing under the weight of the bike, so I just tightened a little at a time and checked for tightness by re-installing the handlebars and grabbing the front brake and pushing down. If the clunk I used to hear going over potholes was still there, I undid everything and tightened some more. Once the clunk was gone, I put the bars back on and took it for a test ride...voila!!!! dat brooklyn bum _______________________________________________________ Say Bye to Slow Internet! http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html

[Chris Krok]

> >From reading about how funny the bike handling gets when the front is > nosed-down a little, I've been wondering if maybe having the back end > UP a little too much can also cause funny wobbles. I run zero > preload in the back. Could too much preload also cause funny > handling?

I just put the Works Performance shock on my bike, and noticed a little wobble in the front. I never measured the sag with the stocker (ran it at preload 4), but with the Works I set it at around 3". (They recommend 1/3 the total travel.) I just take this as a sign that my bike is eager to get in the tight stuff... c -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok Project Engineer, Adaptive Wall Wind Tunnel Graduate Aeronautical Laboratories, California Institute of Technology MS 205-45 Phone: 626.395.4794 Pasadena, CA 91125 Fax: 626.449.2677

[Toby Slide Lampson]

Chris Krok wrote:

> > >From reading about how funny the bike handling gets when the front is > > nosed-down a little, I've been wondering if maybe having the back end > > UP a little too much can also cause funny wobbles. I run zero > > preload in the back. Could too much preload also cause funny > > handling?

Yes, with the front forks flush with the triple tree.....a rear end in the rightspot will permit the wobbles......and in my view lowering the rear(via any or any number of the possible means) will cure it..... Adjusting preload will effect sag. I've heard 2'-2 1/2" sag recommended from; Elden Carl adamantly, 3" sag by Stig Petterson. With adding Preload on a straight wound spring at first the the ride height will get taller(that's with your on the bike)....then at a certain point it will start to decrease again......With a variable rate spring, height will increase period(for practical reasons)......In either case the more sag the less functional travel..... Slide out

> > > I just put the Works Performance shock on my bike, and noticed a little > wobble in the front. I never measured the sag with the stocker (ran it > at preload 4), but with the Works I set it at around 3". (They > recommend 1/3 the total travel.) I just take this as a sign that my > bike is eager to get in the tight stuff... > > c > > -- > Dr. J. Christopher Krok Project Engineer, Adaptive Wall Wind Tunnel > Graduate Aeronautical Laboratories, California Institute of Technology > MS 205-45 Phone: 626.395.4794 > Pasadena, CA 91125 Fax: 626.449.2677 > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Support Dual Sport News by subscribing at: > http://www.dualsportnews.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[t_u_s_k_y]

Hi guys and gals. I recently bought a new KLR and I'm having some bad wobbling from the front wheel at around 130 km/h. It's left to right, like a tank slap and isn't much fun at all. Any ideas on how I can sort this?

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2004-05-10 12:37:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, t_u_s_k_y@... writes:

> > Hi guys and gals. > I recently bought a new KLR and I'm having some bad wobbling from > the front wheel at around 130 km/h. It's left to right, like a tank > slap and isn't much fun at all. Any ideas on how I can sort this? > >

Have you checked the steering head bearing? It might be too loose. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Randall Marbach]

Hi Jake I am running about 27psi front and 25 psi rear. Today, I put another 1/4 turn down on the steering head bearing nut... I think it seemed better ... 80 indicated was better, seemed to move to 85 indicated. HTH Randy --- Dave Jakeman wrote:

> OEM tires can run @ 36 PSI at those speeds. If your > route has coarse > rain grooves; the front tire could track them.... > > Jake www.sagebrushmachine.com > >

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[Chris]

I run 36psi Rear and 32psi front on the stock tires. When I first got the bike it had pressure in the twenties and it felt really squirrely at speed and really awful over steel grates. Air pressure really helped. I also had almost no resistance at the steering head at all, it would pretty much flop side to side. I snugged that sucker down so there is some nice light tension in it, that also made a nice difference. I put just enough tension so that it will hold position on the lift, a light drag. After that, I noticed my triple clamps were unevenly tight, some of the bolts were just barely tensioned at all. After properly torquing them all down carefully to spec, it was even better. The final improvement was adding the LR springs to the forks, it tightened up the bike significantly and it now handles all manner of highway bumps, where before I would be all over the road.

On Sat, Jul 24, 2004 at 07:00:34PM -0700, Randall Marbach wrote: > Hi Jake > > I am running about 27psi front and 25 psi rear. Today, > I put another 1/4 turn down on the steering head > bearing nut... I think it seemed better ... 80 > indicated was better, seemed to move to 85 indicated. > > HTH > > Randy > > > > > --- Dave Jakeman wrote: > > OEM tires can run @ 36 PSI at those speeds. If your > > route has coarse > > rain grooves; the front tire could track them.... > > > > Jake www.sagebrushmachine.com > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > -- ___ ______ _____ __ ________ ___ / _ |< < / == / ___/__ / /_ /_ __/ / __ ____ _ ___ /__ \ / __ |/ // / ****/ (_ / _ \/ __/ / / / _ \/ // / ' \/ _ \ /__/ /_/ |_/_//_/ == \___/\___/\__/ /_/ /_//_/\_,_/_/_/_/ .__/ (_) 8600 miles*Russel Lines*Supertrapp Race* /_/ http://www.kingsqueak.org/klr650/

[stevedyer]

Changing the D607s to TKC80s has resulted in a wobble at highway speeds. Begins oscillation of about 1/2 second at ~70mph indicated, growing in amplitude as the speedo passes 75mph. Similar symptoms with air pressure in both tires at 26 and with pressure bumpedup to 35.5; maybe slightly less at the higher pressure. This did not exist with the D607s. Have any of you experienced similar issues with this type of tire? I don't remember seeing mention of it here. Steve A13

[Arden Kysely]

The KLR's engine isn't known for being quiet and you're not the first to be concerned with its various ticks and taps. A very slight ticking is probably nothing to worry about. And at the front right in the valve train is the KACR device that reduces compression for starting the bike, so that could be what you're hearing. I would keep the oil (any good oil will do, Shell Rotella T 15W-40 has a good following here, you do NOT need to use Kawi oil) topped up and enjoy the ride. And while you're enjoying it, keep your ears open for a change in sounds. That's when you might want to worry. If you get a chance, ride or listen to other KLRs. It might ease your mind. __Arden --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "serverman2k" wrote:

> > Hi I recently purchased a 04 KLR 650 with supposedly 900 miles. The > bike looks new and is clean. I felt as though the valve train was > slightly noisy so I checked the valve clearances. > Both intake valves are 4 thousands (bottom of spec) > Exhaust valves measure 7 and 8 thousands. > > The cam looked to be in good shape with no marks and or burning and > or excessive wear. > > > I have changed the oil the bike came with, the oil was very black. > I did not have a new filter so I reused the old filter and put in > some good grade Castrol. > > I still feel the bike has a very very slight ticking at idle, it > seems to be coming from the front right area (exhaust side) > > Is this normal for the bike? > > Is this due to the oil and or filter? > > Do I need to use Kawasaki oil? > > Is their a know issue with the Cam retarded and or cam retarder > spring? > > Thank you! > > Ed >