Hi Glenn....I'm looking at an A9 wiring diagram here but from what I've read they are all the same.....hopefully. Firstly I'm assuming that by not working you mean that they aren't lighting at all and not just not flashng and that your wiring is stock. Since the Black/Yellow ground wire feeds more then one device at each plug containing a signal light feed I'm pretty sure that we can eliminate it being a ground problem.
All the voltage checks I'm suggesting need to be done with your multimeter Black lead on Battery negative with your meter set to a 50 volt DC scale, sorry if I'm getting too basic here but I'm not sure of your level of experience so I'll go step by step as I see it. Since all seems to be ok other then you signal lights, I would first turn on the key to the Run position and check for 12 vdc at the Brown wire of your Turn Signal flasher. Next check for 12vdc at the Orange wire of the flasher, 12 vdc there and the problem isn't your flasher. No 12vdc at the Brown you'll have to check further back in the wiring harness, 12vdc at the Brown and not at the Orange and the problem is with the flasher.
The Orange wire next goes to the connection plug that supplies your Left Handlebar switches. The Orange wire continues through the connector to the common point of your Left/Right switch. If you have 12 vdc to this point and neither Left and Right are lighting when activated at all I suspect that the problem is in your switch. No 12vdc at the Orange wire here and 12vdc at the Orange wire of your flasher and you have a broken Orange wire in the harness between the connection wire and the flasher.
The above mentioned connection plug also contains the switched wires that feed your signal lights, Green for Left and Grey for right. Before taking your handlebar switch assembly apart with the key still on check for 12vdc on the Green wire with the turn switch activated Left, then with the switch activated Right check for 12vdc on the Grey wire. If none of your signal lights are working I suspect that you will find no voltage at either wire.
At this point if you indeed have 12vdc at the connector Orange wire and 0vdc at the Green and Grey wires when you activate the Turn switch the problem is in the wiring feeding the Left handlebar Signal switch assembly or in the Turn Switch itself. If this proves to be true, the easiest way to go any further is to switch you meter to it's lowest Ohm scale and see where your open circuit is.
I would unplug the above mentioned connector feeding the Left handlebar switch assembly and visually inspect it for damage or corrosion, clean as needed. Next at the side of the connector that feeds the switch and the Turn Signal switch set to Right check for basically 0 ohms between the Orange and Green wires, repeat between Orange and Grey with the switch set to Right. No continuity in either of these checks, which is what I suspect you are going to find pinpoints the problem to your switch assembly. If this is what you find since neither Left or Right is working you will at this point have to take the Switch assembly apart and check for continuity from the Orange wire in the connector to where the Orange wire soldiers on to the common point of the Turn Signal switch. If you have continuity here, and the wire is indeed still soldiered properly you will need to do a continuity check directly across your switch from common, Orange wire to both the Left, Green and
Right, Grey contact of your switch. No continuity here and you have a defective or very dirty switch, try cleaning with contact cleaner but remember you need basically 0 Ohms across the contact to prevent voltage drop and reduced voltage, dim lamps at your signal lights.
Hopefully by now you have found your problem with or without the help of this, if not give me a little feed back on what you have found and we can try to pinpoint it down.....have a great evening.....Greg
ltslpr wrote:
Came back from a weekend camping at Songdog Ranch and decided I'd
better do the full maintenance on my '91 KLR before I rode it again,
it having been 14.5K miles since I last did much to the bike.
For those keeping track, I replaced the first valve shim, exhaust, at
34K miles (0.003 under spec); and, a sparkplug electrode will wear
away enough in 14.5K miles to nearly double the gap, yet the motor
shows no indication of poor starting/running.
My problem: after reassembling everything I find I've got no turn
signals - none, at any corner. All other electrics work fine,
including headlight low/high, rear running light and brake light.
Plus, no dimming of the headlight when toggling the turn signal switch.
Not believing in coincidences, I thought I must have accidentally
disconnected a wiring connector. Close inspection showed no
disconnected or loose (pushed on all of 'em to ensure connection) wiring.
Pulled out Kawasaki's shop books, did the indicated turn signal relay
test, passed. Did the test of the wiring from the handlebar switch,
passed.
Took out all four turn signal bulbs, inspected them visually and
tested them with my multimeter, all passed.
Hooked up my BatteryTender, fully charged the battery and tried the
turn signals with the BT still hooked up, failed.
Went back and inspected all wiring (concentrating on that nest under
the seat, on top of the battery since I had moved the wires during
topped up the battery) and above the valve cover. Nothing unusual seen.
Any suggestions before I resign myself to using hand signals?
Thanks for your assistance,
Glenn
San Jose, CA
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