Wilsons Sandbox

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:08:18 -0000 "mule2b2000" writes:

> Hi folks- > Since riding back from NOAB in July, my KLR has been stalling > under high load (often in 5th gear above 5500 rpm) and the idle has > > been wandering all over the place. I'm constantly having to adjust > it > up and down. I've taken apart, checked and rebuilt the carburetor, > checked the fuel line and vents, replaced the air filter, and > checked > the plug. Could the vacuum system/petcock be the culprit? Or could > valves out of whack cause such a phenomenon? Timing system? I just > dunno what to check at this point. > Another little tidbit or two............My speedo line and dash > > are fine, but the hub isn't turning the line. Is there an easy fix > to > the hub speedo drive or do I need to replace the hub or certain > parts? > Also, what's the best doohickey spring upgrade at this time.....I've > > heard there is a new design spring that is better than the spring > that > came with the Sagebrush kit I installed a couple years back. > > TIA- > Steve

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Steve, I don't think there's enough information supplied to allow for a long distance guess as to what's wrong. But... With only the info supplied I'll guess your timing is off. Maybe the coil under the left case is loose and allowing the timing to advance and retard depending on the last bump. That's just a wild guess. How about telling the list a bit of history of the bike like year, miles, modifications/upgrades etc. Maybe location and altitude could play in here too. Did the bike take any significant hits while on the last trip? Is it making any new noises? Then how about adding some maintenance history like what's been done to the engine in the past like oil and filter changes, air filter maintenance, spark plug changes if any, condition of fuel line and vacuum hoses etc. When you say you rebuilt the carb, what parts did you replace and what was the condition of the jets, passages and float system when you were in it? How do you know you got the float level set correctly? Also can you be a bit more specific about the problem? Does it sound like you've shut the engine off with a key or more like a sputtering from running out of fuel? With the idle jumping all around, maybe provide an rpm high and low and under what conditions it tends to change. Stuff like that will probably be helpful in figuring out where to begin looking. Once we learn a bit more then we might be able to point you in a direction to poke around. For the speedo it's probably a problem at the hub. Only way to see what's broken is to pull your front wheel and look at the parts. That's a common area to have issues. I suggest you consider the new torsion doohickey spring. I've installed 5 this year I think and have one sitting on the shelf for my KLR next time I need/want to go into the left side. You can get it from Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com . Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Jeff Saline wrote: On Wed, 26 Sep 2007 11:39:41 -0000 "Beef" writes:

> Should the rear sprocket have any side to side motion?? [snip]

If you were missing the spacer between the sprocket carrier and the wheel hub I think that might allow the sprocket to move . Jeff--you write with such a "voice" I know it's you replying even without looking at the From box in the emails. Sort of measured and informative without being wordy. Anyway, I second to check for that little spacer--your wheel ought to have three spacers, two obvious ones on the far left and far right, and one more that lives between the sprocket carrier and the hub. It's part #42036 at this page: http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0479/rear_hub/rear_hub.bmp It can sometimes fall out if the sprocket carrier comes off the hub during wheel removal/installation. Without it, your sprocket could wobble... and will destroy your hub and bearings in short order. Also, while you're in there, check each of the individual wheel bearings (there's three, two in the hub and one in the carrier). Stick your finger in the hole and twist, it should be precision smooth--any noticeable play or grittiness is bad news. I had a carrier bearing go out on one of my other bikes... the wheel as a whole didn't show any play when pulled and pushed b/c of the other two bearings, but it allowed the sprocket to cock enough to do hell on the sprocket and chain. Luke Brooklyn NY 92 CB750 nighthawk--naked simpleton 03 KLR650--fat girl with a dirty mind --------------------------------- Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]