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oil question
Posted: Wed Dec 27, 2000 7:23 pm
by frjsmithjr@webtv.net
While perusing my KLR650-A 15 owner's manual, I noted that I can use API
SH or SJ oil with, "JASO MA". Are there any petro-chemical engineers on
the list that can explain what JASO MA means?. Thanks.
Jim Smith
COG# 4469
Y2K Connie
'01 KLR 650
oil question
Posted: Thu Dec 28, 2000 10:43 am
by frjsmithjr@webtv.net
Jim Smith
COG# 4469
Y2K Connie
'01 KLR 650
oil question
Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2005 3:29 pm
by game_warden2
I believe I have seen this question before, but do not remember the
answer. I have a 05 and wondering what weight oil most use? I live
in GA.
Thanks,
MTC
oil question
Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2005 3:42 pm
by Conall
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "game_warden2"
wrote:
>
> I believe I have seen this question before, but do not remember the
> answer. I have a 05 and wondering what weight oil most use? I live
> in GA.
>
> Thanks,
>
> MTC
>
KLR650 Serice Manual supplement says 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, 20W50.
Conall
http://www.angelfire.com/co/klr650/index.html
oil question
Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 11:12 am
by Chris Jennings
I use Castrol Actevo 20/50. Something I learned the other day is that the
first number, the 20 in my case is the what weight the oil acts like at
freezing temps, and the second number or the 50 is what the oil acts like at
boiling temps. And you should not use any oil that says energy conserving on
the API seal on the bottle.
on 11/7/05 15:38, Conall at klr650dotcc@... wrote:
oil question
Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 8:31 am
by sef156
Hi all,
I guess this has probably been asked many times before but I couldn't
find such a tread so here goes..
I would like to hear from KLR owners with personal experience who have
used API-SL graded non-energy conserving automotive oils in their
bikes. I would like to know if anyone has ever experienced clutch
slippage with such an oil.
I have bought a can of "Castrol Egde Sport" fully synthetic 10W-60
with API SL/CF grading. It doesn't mention anything about energy
conserving on the can. Only after I bought this oil did I come accross
some information suggesting that SJ and SL oils contain friction
modifying additives that cause clutch slippage. Now I'm a bit lost,
can I use it or not? Your help would be appreciated. Thanks.
PS. I live in South Africa and I'm not sure whether this specific oil
is available in the US also.
oil question
Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 9:24 am
by Randy Shultz
How hot does it get there that you would want to run a 60 weight oil?
oil question
Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 5:30 pm
by Blake Sobiloff
On 5/23/06, sef156 wrote:
> I would like to hear from KLR owners with personal experience who have
> used API-SL graded non-energy conserving automotive oils in their
> bikes. I would like to know if anyone has ever experienced clutch
> slippage with such an oil.
Yep, I've used Shell Rotella T 5W-40, which is API SL rated and which
is not energy conserving. (Nothing heavier than 30-weight can meet the
Energy Conserving specification.) I ran it for over 4,000 miles and
had no clutch problems.
> I have bought a can of "Castrol Egde Sport" fully synthetic 10W-60
> with API SL/CF grading.
Stick with the weights Kawasaki recommends (40- and 50-weight).
Thicker oils do not cool as well as thinner ones, nor do they
lubricate as well at start-up. You should only go thicker if your
(thinner) oil regularly gets above 100 dC.
--
Blake Sobiloff
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/>
San Jose, CA (USA)
oil question
Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 7:45 pm
by Don S
I've been running Valvoline 10W40 with no problems. I change it every 2000 miles.
Don S.
Blake Sobiloff wrote:
On 5/23/06, sef156 wrote:
> I would like to hear from KLR owners with personal experience who have
> used API-SL graded non-energy conserving automotive oils in their
> bikes. I would like to know if anyone has ever experienced clutch
> slippage with such an oil.
Yep, I've used Shell Rotella T 5W-40, which is API SL rated and which
is not energy conserving. (Nothing heavier than 30-weight can meet the
Energy Conserving specification.) I ran it for over 4,000 miles and
had no clutch problems.
> I have bought a can of "Castrol Egde Sport" fully synthetic 10W-60
> with API SL/CF grading.
Stick with the weights Kawasaki recommends (40- and 50-weight).
Thicker oils do not cool as well as thinner ones, nor do they
lubricate as well at start-up. You should only go thicker if your
(thinner) oil regularly gets above 100 dC.
--
Blake Sobiloff
San Jose, CA (USA)
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oil question
Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 12:07 pm
by fasteddiecopeman
Hi,
My .02$:
I use car Mobil 1 10w-30 ENERGY CONSERVING in my 100+ hp Bandit 1200 w/ NO
problems (for OVER 25,000 kms).
I use car Mobil 1 20w-50 which is NON energy conserving in the KLR, NO problems (OVER
15,000 kms).
Ed