top 5 klr breakdowns

DSN_KLR650
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Kate
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 2:33 pm

nklr tdm fuel pump

Post by Kate » Sat Jul 28, 2007 4:38 pm

I have a Yamaha TDM and had it moved to new residence via moving van. I had to drain the gas tank in order to move it. The TDM has a vacuum fuel pump and it does not like empty gas tanks. I know that there is a tip on how to prime it to get the gas flowing again without draining the battery, but cannot remember what it is. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help, Kathleen [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

nklr tdm fuel pump

Post by Norm Keller » Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:45 am

Can't remember how the TDM is set up but vacuum fuel shut off petcocks need to have vacuum applied to the line which leads from the intake passage. Pull that hose (not the gasoline hose to the carb, the other one which leads to the intake between the carb and the head) and slip another hose onto the petcock to allow vacuum to be applied to open the vacuum valve in the petcock. Vacuum can be applied by mouth suction if you don't have a vacuum pump. Check to see if gas is flowing by opening the carb drain if in doubt. To deal with a vacuum operated fuel pump, it depends on the particular system and its peculiarities. As a general rule these prime quite well on their own but if needing some encouragement, applying a vacuum to the carb end of the fuel line will make fuel flow into the lines and vacuum operated fuel pump so that the circuit is filled with fuel. This will usually do the trick as the pump will generally pump OK once it is filled. If this doesn't do the trick, a technique which often works is to blow into the fuel tank vent by mouth or LOW PRESSURE (less than 3 PSI to avoid bursting the tank). If the TDM has a fuel vent hose, open the carb drain, close the filler cap and blow into the vent hose. Fuel should start flowing from the carb vent. Now that you know fuel is flowing, close the vent and blow for a minute or two to fill the carb, pump and lines. Another alternative might be to use a longer hose to connect the carb to another fuel source such as another bike tank to fill the carb. Switch the TDM's fuel hose back onto the carb before starting. Once the bike starts with a carb full of fuel it may be able to prime the circuit itself. Otherwise you will have to prime it as above. Post directly if you need more help. Oh, if you kill the battery on a bike from such fooling around (haven't we all?) remember not to have the cage engine running when using jumper cables. It would be nasty to forget and fry the bike's regulator. HIH Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Kate
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2007 2:33 pm

nklr tdm fuel pump

Post by Kate » Sun Jul 29, 2007 12:42 pm

Thanks Norm And Michael for the help with the TDM. Haven't tried it yet as I am off to Sunday dinner at relatives, but will work on it Monday. I believe the suggestion below is the tip that I could not remember. And jumper cables have not been unpacked/found yet, so will have to rely on battery charger. Thanks again guys, Kate <<<<<<<<<<<<<< If this doesn't do the trick, a technique which often works is to blow into the fuel tank vent by mouth or LOW PRESSURE (less than 3 PSI to avoid bursting the tank). <<<<<<<<<<<<<< Oh, if you kill the battery on a bike from such fooling around (haven't we all?) remember not to have the cage engine running when using jumper cables. It would be nasty to forget and fry the bike's regulator. HIH Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

rustygreasy
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:33 pm

nklr tdm fuel pump

Post by rustygreasy » Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:40 am

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" wrote:
> > Thanks Norm And Michael for the help with the TDM. Haven't > tried it yet as I am off to Sunday dinner at relatives, but > will work on it Monday. > > I believe the suggestion below is the tip that I could not > remember. And jumper cables have not been unpacked/found yet, > so will have to rely on battery charger. > Thanks again guys, > Kate > > If this doesn't do the trick, a technique which often works is > to blow into the fuel tank vent by mouth or LOW PRESSURE (less > than 3 PSI to avoid bursting the tank). > > > > Oh, if you kill the battery on a bike from such fooling around > (haven't we all?) remember not to have the cage engine running > when using jumper cables. It would be nasty to forget and fry > the bike's regulator. > > HIH > > Norm > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
What about using a hypodermic syringe----without the needle of course. Bottom the plunger, hookup the vacuum signal hose and pull out the plunger to draw a vacuum.

John Kokola
Posts: 332
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2004 9:46 pm

top 5 klr breakdowns

Post by John Kokola » Mon Jul 30, 2007 10:00 pm

Something new for my list. Thanks! --John Kokola -----Original Message-----
>From: Shane > >7 years with 3 KLR's and only once let down. One- the '99 rubbed the >wire harness through just under that bridge where the tank bolts >down. This of course let ALL the smoke out of several wires and shut >down the headlight. I rode it back to the shop, soldered the shorts >and shrink tubed them all. A split piece of heater hose now protects >that spot of all three bikes.

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