Wilsons Sandbox

Headlight not working sounds more like the dimmer switch plug is disconnected under the instrument cluster, or the bulb is blown, or the headlight plug is disconnected, or the headlight ground circuit is open. The ignition switch is powered by the Main fuse through the White wire. The headlight, turn signals, starter relay, etc. receive power from the ignition switch through the Brown wire. Since these components operate, the Brown wire circuit seems to be intact. The Headlight circuit is supplied from the Brown wire which runs back to the Headlight fuse which is located in the fuse holder above the battery. From the Headlight switch the Blue/White wire supplies power to the Headlight circuit. The Blue/White wire runs forward to the junction plugs under the instrument cluster. The plug involved is the one Clymer refers to as "D" in the diagrams on pages 203 7 209. The plugs are A to E from left to right as viewed from the front. Plug "E" is a three wire plug as a double check that you are viewing the plugs from the correct perspective. The "D" plug also contains the Red/Black and Red/Yellow wires which lead to the headlight. Ensure that the Black/White ground wire is also effective. Once you have this issue resolved, I recommend that you install relays to improve headlight power supply. Sick today but will try to look at the other parts of this problem later. It sounds like the issues are coincidental but I don't like coincidence so will think further about a link. I'm sure that you have done the basics such as check for spark.... HIH Norm

>A couple strange things. One is the headlight >doesn't turn on now >(checked fuse and its fine) although the tail >light, neutral light, >turn indicators, and starter works.

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On Sat, 23 Jun 2007, pzzldpnthr wrote:

> Ok, I've had the engine opened up and replaced the balancer shaft, > balancer bearings, and put in new waterpump seals. That did the > trick and finally fixed my leak. Thats the good news! The bad news > is, I was test riding the bike on the freeway and it just stopped > running and wouldn't start back up. The starter sounds good but it > just does start the bike. > > After the repair work, I rode it for about 20 miles just to make > sure the leak was fixed. It seemed to me during this ride that the > vibration was a lot more than normal (although I haven't riden the > bike in about a year and may not be used to the normal vibration > anymore). So the next day I decide to take another ride to further > test the vibration. That is when it just stopped running. > > A couple strange things. One is the headlight doesn't turn on now > (checked fuse and its fine) although the tail light, neutral light, > turn indicators, and starter works. Second, the idle was up around > 2k so I adjusted it down to 1200. These things may be completely > separate issues from the engine dying but I just wanted to give a > good background to what is happening ... or not happening in my > case.

Not one of the early things to check, but I wonder if folk think this set of symptoms would match a missing woodruff key? -- Doug Herr doug@... A16 in Oakland, California

How long between the high idle and the engine stopping? If the fuel tap vacuum line were off the fuel tap, the air leak into the intake could contribute to a high idle speed. This would also close the fuel tap and shut off the fuel. Have you checked the fuel tap vacuum line? I'd also try draining the carb to see if there is adequate fuel supplied. It might be useful to put some vacuum onto the fuel tap to ensure that the fuel flow begins with vacuum available. Alternating between thinking and the can....... (VBG) Did you check for spark? I'm hoping for a non-internal issue....... Norm

> Second, the idle was up around >2k so I adjusted it down to 1200

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I just checked the spark with a new spark plug and there is no spark. Now what?

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Norm Keller" wrote: > > How long between the high idle and the engine stopping? > > If the fuel tap vacuum line were off the fuel tap, the air leak into the intake could contribute to a high idle speed. This would also close the fuel tap and shut off the fuel. > > Have you checked the fuel tap vacuum line? > > I'd also try draining the carb to see if there is adequate fuel supplied. It might be useful to put some vacuum onto the fuel tap to ensure that the fuel flow begins with vacuum available. > > Alternating between thinking and the can....... (VBG) > > Did you check for spark? > > I'm hoping for a non-internal issue....... > > Norm > > > > Second, the idle was up around > >2k so I adjusted it down to 1200 > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

**** update **** There are two wires coming from the ignition coil. One must have been loose. Bike is running now! Thanks for everybody's help! I love when its something simple! --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "pzzldpnthr" wrote:

> > I just checked the spark with a new spark plug and there is no > spark. Now what? > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Norm Keller" wrote: > > > > How long between the high idle and the engine stopping? > > > > If the fuel tap vacuum line were off the fuel tap, the air leak > into the intake could contribute to a high idle speed. This would > also close the fuel tap and shut off the fuel. > > > > Have you checked the fuel tap vacuum line? > > > > I'd also try draining the carb to see if there is adequate fuel > supplied. It might be useful to put some vacuum onto the fuel tap

to

> ensure that the fuel flow begins with vacuum available. > > > > Alternating between thinking and the can....... (VBG) > > > > Did you check for spark? > > > > I'm hoping for a non-internal issue....... > > > > Norm > > > > > > > Second, the idle was up around > > >2k so I adjusted it down to 1200 > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >

On Sat, Jun 23, 2007 at 09:47:00PM -0000, pzzldpnthr wrote:

> > A couple strange things. One is the headlight doesn't turn on now > (checked fuse and its fine) although the tail light, neutral light, > turn indicators, and starter works.

Watch you didn't pinch or fray the bundle of wires that go through the grommet in the case near the countershaft sprocket cover. I've seen two bikes where this happened in the course of balancer work. That will cause all kinds of electrical problems that are hard to diagnose and almost arbitrary in their scope. Worse, you may find it very hard to see damage to these wires due to the general amount of sticky black gunk around the front sprocket on most bikes. But that would be the first place I'd look -- a short to ground, short between two circuits, etc. at that point. Thor