Wilsons Sandbox

an old trick zero $ you can try to rid of any little pieces of dust, hair, etc. that provide a leak path: get a piece of 35mm film negative, trim off the punched bits. Gradually slip it at an angle in between the seal and the slider as you bounce the fork a bit (fork moves easier with oil drained out). Work the film all around the slider, pull it out. Tried this while I was waiting for the fork seal I ordered. It cleared up problem 100%. Now I have a spare seal sitting in my "parts for someday" box. BTW when I went to order a seal, the parts guys said that they have found the stock ones to be best, and they were only $12 out the door. You can order only one, rather than a pair, if one's all you need. Rick Kubik Calgary, Canada --------- Original Message --------- DATE: Thu, 22 May 2003 21:22:49 From: "skyflyer80" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Cc:

>I just installed new K&S fork seals on my A5 a week ago, and today I >was disapointed to discover that a few tablespoons or so of oil had >pooled up in the fork boots... The sliders are clean and smooth, so >I'm assuming that the seals are at fault. I had got them off ebay >for 11 bucks, and now I'm thinking I should have checked the list >archives before assuming any old seal would do the job. >So it looks like some good seals are the Kawasakis? Is there >anyplace on the net that sells them at a decent price? And what >about fork oil? I used a 10W as per the manual, but maybe a 15W >would be better? >Oh well, I'm glad to know the much quicker air pressure method of >seal extraction(thanks to this group)... > >Dan Gilk >A5 > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >

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Another is to wrap a piece of masking tape around the leg above the seal - butting the ends together but not allowing the ends to overlap. Run the slider up and down a couple of times - pull off the tape. Sounds contrary to any sane person's common sense, but it does seem to work a good portion of the time. Guy At 03:16 PM 5/22/03 -0700, Rick Kubik wrote:

>an old trick zero $ you can try to rid of any little pieces of dust, hair,

etc. that provide a leak path: get a piece of 35mm film negative, trim off the punched bits. Gradually slip it at an angle in between the seal and the slider as you bounce the fork a bit (fork moves easier with oil drained out). Work the film all around the slider, pull it out.

> >Tried this while I was waiting for the fork seal I ordered. It cleared up

problem 100%. Now I have a spare seal sitting in my "parts for someday" box.

> >BTW when I went to order a seal, the parts guys said that they have found

the stock ones to be best, and they were only $12 out the door. You can order only one, rather than a pair, if one's all you need. Guy A16 '95 Concours Richmond, VA

I lost some masking tape into the forks this way once. dat brooklyn bum --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed." wrote:

> Another is to wrap a piece of masking tape around the leg above the

seal -

> butting the ends together but not allowing the ends to overlap.

Run the

> slider up and down a couple of times - pull off the tape. > > Sounds contrary to any sane person's common sense, but it does seem

to work

> a good portion of the time. > > Guy > > > At 03:16 PM 5/22/03 -0700, Rick Kubik wrote: > > >an old trick zero $ you can try to rid of any little pieces of

dust, hair,

> etc. that provide a leak path: get a piece of 35mm film negative,

trim off

> the punched bits. Gradually slip it at an angle in between the seal

and the

> slider as you bounce the fork a bit (fork moves easier with oil

drained

> out). Work the film all around the slider, pull it out. > > > >Tried this while I was waiting for the fork seal I ordered. It

cleared up

> problem 100%. Now I have a spare seal sitting in my "parts for

someday" box.

> > > >BTW when I went to order a seal, the parts guys said that they

have found

> the stock ones to be best, and they were only $12 out the door. You

can

> order only one, rather than a pair, if one's all you need. > > > Guy > A16 > '95 Concours > Richmond, VA

On Fri, 23 May 2003, Tumu Rock wrote:

>I lost some masking tape into the forks this way once.

Maybe it'll clog a hole or two and provide you with more damping?

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005, Pete Russo wrote:

> Seems I have a leak in my left fork and I'm going to > attempt to replace the seals. > > Other than the following stock numbers for the seals, > do I need anything else besides fork oil? > > Seal Stock Numbers: > 92049 > 92093

Err, those are not Kawasaki part numbers. Those may be microfiche location numbers, but Kawasaki part numbers have a '-' in them. 92049-1180 92093-1166 are the part number for the front fork seals you're talking about. If you said '92049', all your parts man would do would look at you quizically. _E

Sorry about that my plan for the fork seal is under sticky shifting problem WTF __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Forgot a step take a sharp pointy stifck and drive that mother into the damper tube now you can take it apart everything else you nedd is BBS (BEg,Borrowhttp://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On May 31, 2007, at 8:00 PM, billshel2003 wrote:

> I ask for > your opinion on what you think is worth changing in addition to the > fork seals and new fork oil: add fork brace, new fork boots, upgrade > to Larry Roessler springs? Oil weight and brand? Seal brand?

Hi Bill! The LR springs will have the most obvious effect; pair 'em with 10W given your weight (most heavier folks like 15W). Fork oil's fork oil in KLR; just make sure you change it every year or two. No need for new boots unless yours are tattered. I've heard that the "Leak Proof" seals are actually pretty leaky when used with KLRs, so you're probably better off with a different brand. Enjoy! -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]