Congrats on buying the "BEST" looking year KLR !!!!
http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
The above is the FAQ that is on the DSN_klr650 Homepage,
Chris and others have put alot of work and time into this, read it,
then read it, then read it again.. lots of info in there.
At 500 miles the first service is due, this would include a valve
adjustment/check, oil & filter at a minimum IMO.
You can get filters and valve shims from Fred pretty quick and cheap,
in fact Fred is so cheap, you ask how cheap is Fred ? Well I dont know
how he can sell the valve shims that cheap. I can't even get the
valve shim kits (to get the single shims) at dealer cost though a
distributor at work for what Fred sells them for, and would have to
buy a whole kit.
Oil is your choice, I buy Delvac 15w40 at Wallyworld for less than $6
a gallon, some only use syth. type oil, some only some other M/C
branded oil. Bottom line use what you are comfortable with, AFAIK
there has no oil related problem that any one type of oil has caused,
as long as its changed and made sure there is oil in there. The KLR
will burn oil if you run it WFO for extended periods. just make sure
its full. Next when checking the oil make sure the bike is level and
the oil gets to at least the top of the oil sightglass on the right
side again this is a debatable thing, motor calls for 2.5l I think
which some have reported exceeding the top of the sightglass, I fill
her up till she is at the top of the sightglass or maybe just a tad
over the top.
Lots of places to buy aftermarket stuff, Fred, Tim, Jake, Mike make or
sell alot of things, eBay typically has things listed, there are other
websites that list items also.
Ride the bike, and add/change what you feel is needed based on your
riding needs, example if you do not ride off road, why would you need
a metal bash plate ? If you do not ride aggressive why do you need
Progressive rate springs, why not just change the fork oil to a bit
heavier oil say 10w and try it, it only costs a few bucks a quart for
fork oil, im sure they need to be flushed anyway to rid them of the
fish oil KHI poured in them.
http://klr6500.tripod.com/valves.htm
Above is Mark's (ok one of the Mark's) site for doing a valve
adjustment, of course if you dont want the lady down waiting even a
couple days for shims to arrive, you will have to buy the shim kit, or
open it up, take measurements, button up, order parts, ride then when
parts come in take it all apart again.
Explore this site, he has ALOT of info there.
I am not a high milage rider like some on this list, but I love to
ride my KLR, only got about 2600 miles on mine, but I have no far
places I need to go, I have trails and dirt within a couple miles
of my house, I work about a mile away. Took some play riding time off
while my grandson stayed with us for a month or so, cause I wanted to
spend as much time with him as I could before his mommy made us return
him, but my rear tire is to the point I do not like riding offroad,
its close to being a slick, plan on dropping Kenda 270's on it they
are told to be 50/50 tires and hold up well, even if they might be a
bit snakey on the road, thats fine it will get me to not lean so much
in corners.
Where you hailing from ?
http://www.geocities.com/enduraidrally/ --- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "powermonkey35" wrote:
> i just bought a 2001 KLR650 with 468 miles on it for $3200.00. did i
do good?
>
> does anyone have any advice or suggestions for a first time klr
owner? i am pretty
> stoked about the whole thing and just want to do it right. are there
any adjustments
> or changes i should make at the onset or am i good to go as is?
seems like things like
> skid plates and new hand guards could go ahead and be done sooner
than later.
>
> just plain excited
>
> regards
>
> bill
Again, welcome to your fresh KLR650 - after it is broken in, do what most of
us do - rough it up, off-road.