Wilsons Sandbox

On May 29, 2006, at 6:54 AM, btsmokincat wrote:

> I'm quickly coming up on the 500 mile first service, > do the valves usually need to be shimmed and about how much should I > expect to pay the dealer to do this (I don't even want to try and > screw > it up)?

Many dealers will claim that they've done the 500-mile valve check when they haven't ("they were all in spec"), or will tell you that it doesn't really need to be done at such low mileage. In a nutshell, they're lying or giving bad advice. I've never had a dealer work on my bike, but I'd guess that they'd charge for a couple hours of labor to do the work. Make sure you have them set the valves to the loose end of the spec; it's very little extra effort to change the shims while you're in there, and it'll ensure that your valves remain within spec over the next 5,500 miles when they're most prone to tightening up. Remember: Tappy valves are happy valves. Also, ask them to record the number on each shim that's currently present in the motor, the gap that exists prior to changing shims, the number (size) of each new shim they installed, and the measured (not calculated) resulting gap. Not only will this help ensure that they do a thorough job, but it will provide valuable information for you to track the health of your valves. (Chris Krock has a nice form to record this information at http://www.bigcee.com/faq/ valves_1.pdf>.) Let us know what the numbers are.

> I'd like to stiffen the front suspension, before I buy new > progressive springs, does pumping up the forks with air actually > make a > difference?

Yep--once you blow your fork seals with a bunch of air pressure it makes a big difference.

> I already plan to upgrade the front brake this summer, > should I start with just a new steel braided brake cable or should > I do > the whole she-bang and get a larger rotor and new pads?

Why do you want to upgrade: better lever feel or better stopping power? If the former, the braided cable will help a bit. If the latter, the only thing that makes a difference is a larger rotor and/ or more aggressive brake pads. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Blake Sobiloff wrote:

> > Why do you want to upgrade: better lever feel or better stopping > power? If the former, the braided cable will help a bit. If the > latter, the only thing that makes a difference is a larger rotor and/ > or more aggressive brake pads.

...and a tire that can handle it. If your brake can lock your front tire, more powerful brakes will not stop you any faster.

1st service with oil change was 25.31 in parts and 252.00 in labor ($US ). lucky I prepaid the first 3 services for $100..

----- Original Message ----- From: "btsmokincat" To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 9:54 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Newbie with questions > how much should I > expect to pay the dealer to do this

First off, welcome to the forum Jess. You are fortunate to own a bike that has passionate owners who are willing to share their experience freely. I bought my KLR just a year ago and the learning curve has been vertical for me as I had not ridden since the mid 1960's. By the way, I live about 125 miles from you near Hartford, CT. Be sure to explore the website and learn how to search existing posts in the archive as there is a host of information there waiting to be "mined". My advice: Take it slow! The KLR is a huge (heavy) bike for off road use. Only a small percentage of the group is able to athletically ride it off road. Once your lawn is green, soft and dry, I recommend you lay the bike over on it's side and pick it up a few times. It will be an eye-opening experience. After that think of how you would lift it on a rocky uphill trail when the bike is laying on it's side with the handlebars downhill. It is very, very difficult without help. Also, go off-road only with friends, and bring a cell phone that works where you are riding. You live is a fabulous area to roam around on the paved single lane roadways, and your scenery is awesome. Lets meet somewhere in between for lunch one of these days. Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA http://www.essexsteamtrain.com/ http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com 2006 A6F KLR Green Tires: Mefo 99 Explorers Country roads (20% dirt), dual tracks. NY State and Northern New England

----- Original Message ----- From: ellefauve To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 11:58 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] newbie with questions Hi all, a week ago today i got my new klr650, and since the weather has not cooperated, havent gotten a chance to put many miles on it. It has been ten years since ive ridden and this is my first dual sport. Im going to have lots of fun with it eventually but am starting out slow. First off, I live in NY, in the capital region. How far do I have to go to find legal and not totally ball busting trails to play on? Also, Im getting lowering links put on, I think no more than 1-1 1/2 inches, and searching through the archives I see that that can be a disadvantage when off roading. Since I wont be doing any major off roading for awhile, and since my weight is pretty low, is this going to impact the impact a whole lot? Im sure I have many more questions, but will be content to search the archives for a while before asking anything too stupid. Thank you. Jess [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]