digest number 7979, chain ?

[usa1911a1]

Let me start by saying that I know absolutely nothing about this subject. 1) Has anyone on the list actually broken a chain? 2) Did it break away from home? 3) How did you repair or replace it and with what? 4) Our chain is one piece. Can / should it be replaced with a master link chain? Master link sounds best to me. Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA http://www.essexsteamtrain.com/ 2006 A6F KLR Green Tires: Mefo 99 Explorers Country roads (20% dirt), dual tracks. NY State and Northern New England [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike Peplinski]

I'm not a chain guru but from thte little I know about them they rarely break, they lose a master link. It appears KLR chains come either with or without a master link. They can be haard to find so the rider may think he has a non master link chain. That little clip on the master can come off in cleaning, or just spring off and the link works loose. You couldn't tell that from a purely broken chain, for the most part. I believe for the chain to actually break it would have to be severly worn and you would see that on the sprockets. It takes a lot to break a chain. It would take way more power than the KLR puts out to break it with power. This is just my opinion, but I've been riding chain driven bikes for 30 years and have not had any trouble. But then, I clean and oil my chaini regularly, and replace them when they show wear. I hope this has helped.

>From: "usa1911a1" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Ok, so your stock chain broke, what next? >Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 10:05:35 -0500 > >Let me start by saying that I know absolutely nothing about this subject. > >1) Has anyone on the list actually broken a chain? >2) Did it break away from home? >3) How did you repair or replace it and with what? >4) Our chain is one piece. Can / should it be replaced with a master link >chain? Master link sounds best to me. > > >Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA >http://www.essexsteamtrain.com/ >2006 A6F KLR Green >Tires: Mefo 99 Explorers >Country roads (20% dirt), dual tracks. NY State and Northern New England > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

_________________________________________________________________ The average US Credit Score is 675. The cost to see yours: $0 by Experian. http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=660600&bcd=EMAILFOOTERAVERAGE

[Ross Lindberg]

Our extracting line uses many, many feet of roller chain. No matter how much maintenance I do every year we always have chain trouble. The problem always stems from master links. Always, always, always. The retainer clip faals off and it's only a matter of time before things come apart, and a chain that is whipping around can tear stuff up in a hurry. I really hate master links. I keep a supply of extra ones on hand since this is a regular occurance for us due to the nature of the machinery. If I had a choice I would use an endless chain. If I was really worried while on a trip I would carry an extra chain. Ross Lindberg Fertile, MN but only till Tuesday --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski" wrote:

> > I'm not a chain guru but from thte little I know about them they

rarely

> break, they lose a master link. It appears KLR chains come either

with or

> without a master link. They can be haard to find so the rider may

think he

> has a non master link chain. That little clip on the master can

come off in

> cleaning, or just spring off and the link works loose. You couldn't

tell

> that from a purely broken chain, for the most part. I believe for

the chain

> to actually break it would have to be severly worn and you would

see that on

> the sprockets. It takes a lot to break a chain. It would take way

more power

> than the KLR puts out to break it with power. This is just my

opinion, but

> I've been riding chain driven bikes for 30 years and have not had

any

> trouble. But then, I clean and oil my chaini regularly, and replace

them

> when they show wear. I hope this has helped. > > > >From: "usa1911a1" > >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Ok, so your stock chain broke, what next? > >Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 10:05:35 -0500 > > > >Let me start by saying that I know absolutely nothing about this

subject.

> > > >1) Has anyone on the list actually broken a chain? > >2) Did it break away from home? > >3) How did you repair or replace it and with what? > >4) Our chain is one piece. Can / should it be replaced with a

master link

> >chain? Master link sounds best to me. > > > > > >Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA > >http://www.essexsteamtrain.com/ > >2006 A6F KLR Green > >Tires: Mefo 99 Explorers > >Country roads (20% dirt), dual tracks. NY State and Northern New

England

> > > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The average US Credit Score is 675. The cost to see yours: $0 by

Experian.

> http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?

sc=660600&bcd=EMAILFOOTERAVERAGE

>

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

Wow, you musta really let that chain go; I always thought the stock chain was pretty tough. How many miles were on it? I got over almost 18K from my stock chain, and only changed it because I was departing on a 3000 mile trip. Anyway, masterlink chains are the way to go. They're easy to install and reliable. I've never had a clip fall off in the over 100,000 miles I've put on masterlink chains. Although I've never had a problem, I always carried a spare link (just saved the one from the previous chain for an emergency fix). However, I recently switched to a rivet-link chain because I bought a stack of three high-end rivet link chains on sale in error and failed to see that they had rivet links instead of clip links. I decided rather than exchanging them, I'd just buy the rivet tool. I got such a steal on the chains anyway, it was like getting the tool for free and then some. Some guys are picky about what brand of chain they run, but I usually look for any quality chain that's on sale (in the ~$35-$60 is my range), O-ring, X-ring, XW-ring, Z-ring, it doesn't really matter much. I usually end up with DID or RK, but you're also fine with EK, Tsubaki, Regina, etc. Mark At 10:05 AM -0500 3/9/07, usa1911a1 wrote:

>Let me start by saying that I know absolutely nothing about this subject. > >1) Has anyone on the list actually broken a chain? >2) Did it break away from home? >3) How did you repair or replace it and with what? >4) Our chain is one piece. Can / should it be replaced with a >master link chain? Master link sounds best to me. > > >Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA >http://www.essexsteamtrain.com/ >2006 A6F KLR Green >Tires: Mefo 99 Explorers >Country roads (20% dirt), dual tracks. NY State and Northern New England > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

[walters474@aol.com]

I put myself in a situation where I could of broke my chain. Soon after I recieved my new bike (2001), I noticed how loose the chain was. I went by the owners manual 'rotate the rear wheel until the chain is tightest', they must mean 'compress the rear suspension until the chain is tighest'. The chain is too tight with weight on the seat. Happy and safe riding. Walt ************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Klaus]

All of my current my motorbikes are shafties, so I have little recent experience with motorcycle chains, or production line chains. However, I have a lot of experience with bicycle chains. On derailleur bikes, the use of a master link just doesn't work. (That is until recently...) With the help of the proper chain breaker, one of the pins is pushed out just to the point where the chain can be taken apart but not to the point of the pin falling out. To reinstall, the tool is used the other way around to drive the pin back in. Another position is used to loosen the link since pressing the pin back in often causes the chain to bind at that point. With a little practice it's very simple and, if done correctly, the break point is just as strong as the rest of the chain. If using a master link, install it such that it is least likely to pop open should it rub up against something while riding. However, with the right tool I have little use for a weak... err, master link.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ross Lindberg" wrote: > > Our extracting line uses many, many feet of roller chain. No matter > how much maintenance I do every year we always have chain trouble. > The problem always stems from master links. Always, always, always. > The retainer clip faals off and it's only a matter of time before > things come apart, and a chain that is whipping around can tear stuff > up in a hurry. I really hate master links. I keep a supply of extra > ones on hand since this is a regular occurance for us due to the > nature of the machinery. If I had a choice I would use an endless > chain. If I was really worried while on a trip I would carry an > extra chain. > > Ross Lindberg > Fertile, MN but only till Tuesday

[Ronald Criswell]

Like the frog says ...... rivet, rivet, rivet............ Criswell

On Mar 9, 2007, at 9:49 AM, Ross Lindberg wrote: > Our extracting line uses many, many feet of roller chain. No matter > how much maintenance I do every year we always have chain trouble. > The problem always stems from master links. Always, always, always. > The retainer clip faals off and it's only a matter of time before > things come apart, and a chain that is whipping around can tear stuff > up in a hurry. I really hate master links. I keep a supply of extra > ones on hand since this is a regular occurance for us due to the > nature of the machinery. If I had a choice I would use an endless > chain. If I was really worried while on a trip I would carry an > extra chain. > > Ross Lindberg > Fertile, MN but only till Tuesday > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski" > wrote: > > > > I'm not a chain guru but from thte little I know about them they > rarely > > break, they lose a master link. It appears KLR chains come either > with or > > without a master link. They can be haard to find so the rider may > think he > > has a non master link chain. That little clip on the master can > come off in > > cleaning, or just spring off and the link works loose. You couldn't > tell > > that from a purely broken chain, for the most part. I believe for > the chain > > to actually break it would have to be severly worn and you would > see that on > > the sprockets. It takes a lot to break a chain. It would take way > more power > > than the KLR puts out to break it with power. This is just my > opinion, but > > I've been riding chain driven bikes for 30 years and have not had > any > > trouble. But then, I clean and oil my chaini regularly, and replace > them > > when they show wear. I hope this has helped. > > > > > > >From: "usa1911a1" > > >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Ok, so your stock chain broke, what next? > > >Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2007 10:05:35 -0500 > > > > > >Let me start by saying that I know absolutely nothing about this > subject. > > > > > >1) Has anyone on the list actually broken a chain? > > >2) Did it break away from home? > > >3) How did you repair or replace it and with what? > > >4) Our chain is one piece. Can / should it be replaced with a > master link > > >chain? Master link sounds best to me. > > > > > > > > >Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA > > >http://www.essexsteamtrain.com/ > > >2006 A6F KLR Green > > >Tires: Mefo 99 Explorers > > >Country roads (20% dirt), dual tracks. NY State and Northern New > England > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________________ > > The average US Credit Score is 675. The cost to see yours: $0 by > Experian. > > http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx? > sc=660600&bcd=EMAILFOOTERAVERAGE > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "usa1911a1" wrote:

> > Let me start by saying that I know absolutely nothing about this subject. > > 1) Has anyone on the list actually broken a chain? > 2) Did it break away from home? > 3) How did you repair or replace it and with what? > 4) Our chain is one piece. Can / should it be replaced with a master link chain? Master

link sounds best to me.

>

I have never broken one, but I have seen one break. It was a totally clapped-out DR350 chain (unless you think a chain has to be spitting its rollers to be totally clapped). Another guy on the ride had a motion Pro chain breaker in the bottom of his bag. It took me about 10 minutes to take out 4 links (did I say it was clapped?) and reinstall with a new master link. It had been an endless chain. The tool worked so well I bought one, and carry it on my bike with a mini chain press and selection of links.

[RM]

My stock chain developed a severe stiff link while still very far from the wear limit. The adjacent links are the ones that caught hell, and the chain was clearly on the verge of breaking when I replaced it. Ever since then, I make a point of getting the rear tire off the ground, laying down under the bike, and inspecting each and every link, all 106 of them, during route maintenance. I make sure they rotate smoothly and do not exhibit excess slack longitudinally (is that a word?). Interestingly, my current DID 520VM might lose rollers before it hits the wear limit. It was used with a Sprocket Specialists steel rear which was badly shark-toothed at the end of its service. RM

[Norm Keller]

Chains are really no problem as long as they get some basic cleaning and lubrication/rust prevention. For a chain to break is has to be in really bad condition and there's no reason to go there. I prefer rivet link chains because there is no master link to fail. Why add the failure possibility? Anyone in this area needing to swap a chain is welcome to drop over and use mine. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]