Wilsons Sandbox

Hi fellow KLRistas! I was performing my first swingarm maintenance at 12000 miles (!) and found one set of bearings that I couldn't get to. The triangular linkage underneath the bike is connected to the frame somehow and even though I removed the bolt I couldn't remove the link. If you want to see a picture there is one here http://barnaby.org/klr650/> . How do you get to the bearings ? I figured shoving grease into the bolt hole wasn't going to get me anywhere and actually I'd like to know how to remove the linkage. Thanks. barnaby [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hey Paul, Thanks for the reply. I took the plastic caps off, undid the nut and pulled bolt out. I thought I could just pull the linkage free from the frame at that point but there seemed to be something stopping me. I felt inside the frame and saw another metal shaft that appeared to be connecting the link and the frame. Your bike doesn't have that I take it ? barnaby p.s. the torque for that nut is 72ft lbs

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Griffin" wrote: > > Barnaby > > > > You need to remove the long bolt that goes from one side to the other. The > head and the nut are hidden behind two small round plastic covers. When > putting back together they need to be torqued to the correct setting (can't > remember what it is now, someone else will tho') > > > > Good Luck > > > > Paul Griffin > > '87A1 > > Gold Coast, Qld, Australia > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of Barnaby Robson > Sent: Thursday, 25 January 2007 18:43 > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [[ Possible Spam ]] [DSN_KLR650] Swingarm Lubrication. > > > > Hi fellow KLRistas! > > I was performing my first swingarm maintenance > at 12000 miles (!) and found one set of bearings > that I couldn't get to. The triangular linkage > underneath the bike is connected to the frame > somehow and even though I removed the bolt > I couldn't remove the link. > > If you want to see a picture there is one here > http://barnaby. http://barnaby.org/klr650/> org/klr650/> . > > How do you get to the bearings ? I figured > shoving grease into the bolt hole wasn't going > to get me anywhere and actually I'd like to know > how to remove the linkage. > > Thanks. > > barnaby > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

Try < http://klr6500.tripod.com/swingarm.htm > without the < & > Shows the complete teardown and reassembly. Links on the left also have PDF files so printing can be done without loosing info, mostly. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Barnaby Robson" wrote: > > Hi fellow KLRistas! > > I was performing my first swingarm maintenance > at 12000 miles (!) and found one set of bearings > that I couldn't get to. The triangular linkage > underneath the bike is connected to the frame > somehow and even though I removed the bolt > I couldn't remove the link. > > If you want to see a picture there is one here > http://barnaby.org/klr650/> . > > How do you get to the bearings ? I figured > shoving grease into the bolt hole wasn't going > to get me anywhere and actually I'd like to know > how to remove the linkage. > > Thanks. > > barnaby

Might try and loosen the rear engine mounts, could just be pinching, do not remember anything weird about it, nor "another metal shaft". Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Barnaby Robson" wrote: > > Hey Paul, > > Thanks for the reply. > > I took the plastic caps off, undid the nut and pulled bolt out. I > thought I could just pull the linkage free from the frame at that > point but there seemed to be something stopping me. I felt inside the > frame and saw another metal shaft that appeared to be connecting the > link and the frame. > > Your bike doesn't have that I take it ? > > barnaby > > p.s. the torque for that nut is 72ft lbs >

Thanks for the replies everyone. The top engine mount was undone as I was checking my valves during the same maintenance. So .. It appears that the sleeve must have slipped a little inside the actual frame (if that is possible). I think that is what I felt was the "extra shaft" and it was what was making removal so difficult. Unfortunately I already put the bike back together. Dang. barnaby.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > Might try and loosen the rear engine mounts, could just be pinching, > do not remember anything weird about it, nor "another metal shaft". > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Barnaby Robson" wrote: > > > > Hey Paul, > > > > Thanks for the reply. > > > > I took the plastic caps off, undid the nut and pulled bolt out. I > > thought I could just pull the linkage free from the frame at that > > point but there seemed to be something stopping me. I felt inside the > > frame and saw another metal shaft that appeared to be connecting the > > link and the frame. > > > > Your bike doesn't have that I take it ? > > > > barnaby > > > > p.s. the torque for that nut is 72ft lbs > > >

On Fri, 19 Jan 2007 18:20:32 -0000 "eddiebmauri" writes:

> Hi all, please bear with me as I am not a mechanic by any stretch of > > the imagination, and this is my first KLR. I have been reading > Jeff's > posts about his tour and he writes that, " ..countershaft nut and > it's > totally off the countershaft". Is that referring to the nut that > holds the rear tire/rim on the rear axle? I am also going to > look "countershaft nut" up in the Clymer Manual. Exactly where is > > the countershaft nut located? > > Thanks > > Eddie Mauri

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Eddie, The countershaft nut is the nut that holds the front sprocket to the engine/transmission countershaft. It's near your left foot when riding. If you want to see some pictures take a look at the De Tour site hosted by our own GregM. Thanks Greg. : ) You can find the site at: http://70.60.188.86/de_tour.htm . I suppose the pictures you'll want to look at are under Day Five. Eddie, don't get too confused about this. The nut on the rear axle is usually referred to as the rear axle nut and the one on the front axle is called the front axle nut. All three nuts are different sizes. Steve and I were using prevailing torque nuts (commonly referred to on the list as a Jake Nut [RIP]) which are a type of locking nut. But since Steve's countershaft end was broken when he got the bike and then broke just a bit more during the ride... the locking part of the nut had nothing to lock to. I think Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com now carries a similar nut supplied by our own Eagle Mike. Many folks like this type of nut as you don't need to bend a locking washer against the nut or away from the nut to secure or remove it. Just use a big socket and breaker bar or similar leverage device. Steve and I also use Dual-Star axle locking nuts to eliminate having a cotter key in the end of the axle. I think Steve also uses a hitch pin type clip in a belt and suspenders safety mode on his axles. If you aren't going to change your front sprocket except for chain and sprocket maintenance or replacement the prevailing torque nut is probably not needed. I change my sprockets sometimes on tours using a 16 tooth front for road work to get to the dirt section and then put a 14 tooth front on for better performance in the dirt. I also use a 46 tooth rear sprocket and Steve is using a 45 tooth rear. Those combinations work well for us. I wouldn't use a 16 tooth front with a stock 43 tooth rear but lots of folks on the list do and like it. I think it takes away too much from the lower speeds and I don't run over 75, and normally not over 65, so don't need the top end that some claim they can still get while the 16/43 combo. I just saw Dooden's post as I was getting ready to send this. With the end of the countershaft broken and no effective locking device for the nut we used JB KWIK to keep the nut from loosening. It worked well and we had to work to break it off a few days later as you'll get to read about late next week. Again, take a look at the pictures on day 5 and see the JB KWIK fix. I seem to also remember when we were in the bike again Steve realized he had the original nut and locking washer with him so we could have used that instead of the JB KWIK. His son now owns the bike and is riding the heck out of it from what I understand. Missing the end of the countershaft isn't affecting the performance or operation at all. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT