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new jug and piston...
Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:13 pm
by AT
Hey guys,
I hope this finds you all well and jonesin' to go riding. I know I am. I
been pouring over maps and planning. But, first thing is first. Barbie needs
another top end job. She's burning oil again to the tune of a quart every
400 miles @ 4500+ RPM. I just rebuilt it last March at 10,000 miles but have
put 13,000 hard miles on it since then.
So I made a couple of calls just now to find out a new Jug and piston is
gonna be about $600.00. I'm gonna go with a newer one because they have a
thicker sleeve than in '95. Can anyone offer me a better solution or a
better price on a new jug or even a complete motor? I need something with
less than 10,000 miles on it for me to consider it... What I really need is
a new bike... Anyhow...
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the knowledge here.
-Andy
andyt59@...
new jug and piston...
Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 6:45 pm
by usa1911a1
I'm no help to you on the parts but have seen complete engines go on eBay for less than $1500. I am surprised at your history. Two cylinder jobs in less than a year. Why do you think that your wear experience is so different from the groups?
Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA
----- Original Message -----
From: AT
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] New jug and piston...
Hey guys,
I hope this finds you all well and jonesin' to go riding. I know I am. I
been pouring over maps and planning. But, first thing is first. Barbie needs
another top end job. She's burning oil again to the tune of a quart every
400 miles @ 4500+ RPM. I just rebuilt it last March at 10,000 miles but have
put 13,000 hard miles on it since then.
So I made a couple of calls just now to find out a new Jug and piston is
gonna be about $600.00. I'm gonna go with a newer one because they have a
thicker sleeve than in '95. Can anyone offer me a better solution or a
better price on a new jug or even a complete motor? I need something with
less than 10,000 miles on it for me to consider it... What I really need is
a new bike... Anyhow...
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the knowledge here.
-Andy
andyt59@...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
new jug and piston...
Posted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 8:53 pm
by Norm Keller
Have you considered having an automotive machine shop bore the cylinder and press in a sleeve? For $600.00, I'd be looking at options.
Just a thought,
Norm
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
new jug and piston...
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 1:54 am
by AT
Here is the history since last rebuild:
13000 miles. About 500-1000 miles of pavement. I have the habit of running
4500+ RPM's. The air cleaner was washed after every dirt ride or when I shut
it down for the night (lots of overnighters.) I rebuilt it at about 10000
(March 2006) the first time because it was using a quart every 250 miles.
Tim had a guy in Eagle, ID do the cyl. Head and hone the cyl. As it was just
BARELY in spec. I installed new rings on the old piston and put it back
together with Lubriplate assembly lube.
Andy
andyt59@...
-----Original Message-----
From: usa1911a1 [mailto:usa1911a1@...]
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 5:36 PM
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups. com; AT
Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] New jug and piston...
I'm no help to you on the parts but have seen complete engines go on eBay
for less than $1500. I am surprised at your history. Two cylinder jobs in
less than a year. Why do you think that your wear experience is so
different from the groups?
Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA
----- Original Message -----
From: AT
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] New jug and piston...
Hey guys,
I hope this finds you all well and jonesin' to go riding. I know I am. I
been pouring over maps and planning. But, first thing is first. Barbie
needs
another top end job. She's burning oil again to the tune of a quart
every
400 miles @ 4500+ RPM. I just rebuilt it last March at 10,000 miles but
have
put 13,000 hard miles on it since then.
So I made a couple of calls just now to find out a new Jug and piston is
gonna be about $600.00. I'm gonna go with a newer one because they have
a
thicker sleeve than in '95. Can anyone offer me a better solution or a
better price on a new jug or even a complete motor? I need something
with
less than 10,000 miles on it for me to consider it... What I really need
is
a new bike... Anyhow...
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the knowledge here.
-Andy
andyt59@...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
new jug and piston...
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:14 am
by Jeff Saline
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 00:54:29 -0700 "AT" writes:
> Here is the history since last rebuild:
>
> 13000 miles. About 500-1000 miles of pavement. I have the habit of
> running
> 4500+ RPM's. The air cleaner was washed after every dirt ride or
> when I shut
> it down for the night (lots of overnighters.) I rebuilt it at about
> 10000
> (March 2006) the first time because it was using a quart every 250
> miles.
> Tim had a guy in Eagle, ID do the cyl. Head and hone the cyl. As it
> was just
> BARELY in spec. I installed new rings on the old piston and put it
> back
> together with Lubriplate assembly lube.
>
> Andy
> andyt59@...
<><><><><><> ><><><><><><>
Andy,
The question I now have is what is your engine "break in" procedure? I'm
also curious as to what oil you are using. And I'm also wondering if you
don't have a rod that's bent and causing abnormal piston movement. Also
what are you setting the ring gaps at and what is the orientation of the
gaps when on the piston in the cylinder? And what is your piston to
cylinder wall clearance? I think all these are all possible to cause oil
use if not done properly. Your BARELY in spec comment about the cylinder
and honing it makes me think you could be getting the correct amount of
oil usage based on the parts used.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
new jug and piston...
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:35 am
by Kerry Stottlemyer
I agree with Jeff, Barely in spec means it's barely holding good
compresion. And the liklyhood of it using oil is high based one the
lack of good contact with the cylinder.
My philosophy on engine rebuilding is everything MUST be in factory
spec If it's border line buy a new part or machine it and buy the
correct fit mating part.
Kerry
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote:
>
> On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 00:54:29 -0700 "AT" writes:
> > Here is the history since last rebuild:
> >
> > 13000 miles. About 500-1000 miles of pavement. I have the habit
of
> > running
> > 4500+ RPM's. The air cleaner was washed after every dirt ride or
> > when I shut
> > it down for the night (lots of overnighters.) I rebuilt it at
about
> > 10000
> > (March 2006) the first time because it was using a quart every
250
> > miles.
> > Tim had a guy in Eagle, ID do the cyl. Head and hone the cyl. As
it
> > was just
> > BARELY in spec. I installed new rings on the old piston and put
it
> > back
> > together with Lubriplate assembly lube.
> >
> > Andy
> > andyt59@...
> <><><><><><> ><><><><><><>
>
> Andy,
>
> The question I now have is what is your engine "break in"
procedure? I'm
> also curious as to what oil you are using. And I'm also wondering
if you
> don't have a rod that's bent and causing abnormal piston
movement. Also
> what are you setting the ring gaps at and what is the orientation
of the
> gaps when on the piston in the cylinder? And what is your piston
to
> cylinder wall clearance? I think all these are all possible to
cause oil
> use if not done properly. Your BARELY in spec comment about the
cylinder
> and honing it makes me think you could be getting the correct
amount of
> oil usage based on the parts used.
>
> Best,
>
> Jeff Saline
> ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
> Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
> The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
> 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
>
new jug and piston...
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:37 am
by fasteddiecopeman
A word of WARNING! Apparently the sleeve protrudes a VERY small amount above the top
(.002"???), and if you press one in too far (level) you'll blow head gaskets! Happened to my
buddy from Arkansas.
Ed
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Norm Keller" wrote:
>
> Have you considered having an automotive machine shop bore the cylinder and press in
a sleeve? For $600.00, I'd be looking at options.
>
> Just a thought,
>
> Norm
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
new jug and piston...
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 12:06 pm
by Mike
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman"
wrote:
>
> A word of WARNING! Apparently the sleeve protrudes a VERY small
amount above the top
> (.002"???), and if you press one in too far (level) you'll blow head
gaskets! Happened to my
> buddy from Arkansas.
> Ed
Ed,
The factory sleeve (for the KLR650)has extra material in this area.
After the sleeve is installed, it has to be cut down - at least on the
parts I've seen. It also has to be bored - you can just throw another
liner in there and be good to go.
all the best,
Mike
new jug and piston...
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:40 pm
by a14@att.net
> The factory sleeve (for the KLR650)has extra material in this area.
> After the sleeve is installed, it has to be cut down - at least on the
> parts I've seen. It also has to be bored - you can just throw another
> liner in there and be good to go.
>
> all the best,
>
> Mike
>
Don't you really mean you CAN'T just throw another
liner in there and be good to go?
Walt
new jug and piston...
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:49 pm
by michaeljtruel
---I am curious about this: Friend of mine has a 2000 model with
120,000 miles on it with only routine maintenance and regular oil
changes. What is all this rebuilding interest based on?? mike in OK
In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, a14@... wrote:
>
> > The factory sleeve (for the KLR650)has extra material in this
area.
> > After the sleeve is installed, it has to be cut down - at least
on the
> > parts I've seen. It also has to be bored - you can just throw
another
> > liner in there and be good to go.
> >
> > all the best,
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
> Don't you really mean you CAN'T just throw another
> liner in there and be good to go?
>
> Walt
>