hop up stuff

[Bob Schulte]

I have adjusted my valves and am putting the beast back together. The threaded socket which accepts the exhaust left side valve cover bolt is apparently stripped...the last service person in did it, not me...the three others are fine and I will torque to below specs. The valve cover bolt seems to be spinning with about 25in.lbs of torque. I am tempted to close her up and go with it as is, with the idea that next time in I will take appropriate action. Two questions: 1) Can I get away with leaving it as is, what is the down side? 2) What is the fix when I go back in next time? ============================================================================================================= Per Mark's FAQ's Valves: "Once the valve cover is in place, you can thread in the four cover bolts finger tight. I would suggest tightening in an "X" pattern, as in the number 16 removal step. Once you're ready to torque the bolts, you should do so only about 1/4 turn per bolt, per time, to avoid "warping" the cover. The torque specification is: 7.8N-m / 0.80kg-m / 69INCH-lbs =============================================================================================================== Capt. Bob Durham, CT USA 2006 KLR http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Kerry Stottlemyer]

Drill it out and install a helicoil or "timesert" threaded insert. Or if room allows just go one size bigger on the bolt. I have not gotten around to adjuting the valves on my bike yet so I'm not sure if there is enough material to go up a size in bolts. 69inch pounds is only 5 foot lbs of torque not to much holding the cover on worst case it will leak like a chevy. Kerry --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Schulte" wrote:

> > I have adjusted my valves and am putting the beast back together.

The threaded socket which accepts the exhaust left side valve cover bolt is apparently stripped...the last service person in did it, not me...the three others are fine and I will torque to below specs. The valve cover bolt seems to be spinning with about 25in.lbs of torque. I am tempted to close her up and go with it as is, with the idea that next time in I will take appropriate action.

> > Two questions: > 1) Can I get away with leaving it as is, what is the down side? > 2) What is the fix when I go back in next time? > > >

===================================================================== ========================================

> Per Mark's FAQ's Valves: > "Once the valve cover is in place, you can thread in the four

cover bolts finger tight. I would suggest tightening in an "X" pattern, as in the number 16 removal step. Once you're ready to torque the bolts, you should do so only about 1/4 turn per bolt, per time, to avoid "warping" the cover. The torque specification is: 7.8N-m / 0.80kg-m / 69INCH-lbs

>

===================================================================== ==========================================

> Capt. Bob > Durham, CT USA > 2006 KLR > http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com/ > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Bob Schulte]

Kerry, Thanks for the reply...I have been thinking more about it and am comfortable with it. The valve cover is attached to the cam caps so next time I have the caps off I will do the helicoil. The bolts themselves have special contours so going up one size is not an option. I have used RTV as instructed on the reassembly so I am not too concerned about leakage. There is no oil pressure up there. I will watch the bolt in question so it doesn't go awol on me. Capt. Bob Durham, CT USA 2006 KLR http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com/

----- Original Message ----- From: Kerry Stottlemyer To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 4:49 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Question RE: Valve Cover bolts Drill it out and install a helicoil or "timesert" threaded insert. Or if room allows just go one size bigger on the bolt. I have not gotten around to adjuting the valves on my bike yet so I'm not sure if there is enough material to go up a size in bolts. 69inch pounds is only 5 foot lbs of torque not to much holding the cover on worst case it will leak like a chevy. Kerry --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Schulte" wrote: > > I have adjusted my valves and am putting the beast back together. The threaded socket which accepts the exhaust left side valve cover bolt is apparently stripped...the last service person in did it, not me...the three others are fine and I will torque to below specs. The valve cover bolt seems to be spinning with about 25in.lbs of torque. I am tempted to close her up and go with it as is, with the idea that next time in I will take appropriate action. > > Two questions: > 1) Can I get away with leaving it as is, what is the down side? > 2) What is the fix when I go back in next time? > > > ===================================================================== ======================================== > Per Mark's FAQ's Valves: > "Once the valve cover is in place, you can thread in the four cover bolts finger tight. I would suggest tightening in an "X" pattern, as in the number 16 removal step. Once you're ready to torque the bolts, you should do so only about 1/4 turn per bolt, per time, to avoid "warping" the cover. The torque specification is: 7.8N-m / 0.80kg-m / 69INCH-lbs > ===================================================================== ========================================== > Capt. Bob > Durham, CT USA > 2006 KLR > http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com/ > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Schulte" wrote:

> > I have adjusted my valves and am putting the beast back together.

The threaded socket which accepts the exhaust left side valve cover bolt is apparently stripped...the last service person in did it, not me...the three others are fine and I will torque to below specs. The valve cover bolt seems to be spinning with about 25in.lbs of torque. I am tempted to close her up and go with it as is, with the idea that next time in I will take appropriate action.

> > Two questions: > 1) Can I get away with leaving it as is, what is the down side? > 2) What is the fix when I go back in next time? > > >

=============================================================================================================

> Per Mark's FAQ's Valves: > "Once the valve cover is in place, you can thread in the four cover

bolts finger tight. I would suggest tightening in an "X" pattern, as in the number 16 removal step. Once you're ready to torque the bolts, you should do so only about 1/4 turn per bolt, per time, to avoid "warping" the cover. The torque specification is: 7.8N-m / 0.80kg-m / 69INCH-lbs

>

===============================================================================================================

> Capt. Bob > Durham, CT USA > 2006 KLR > http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com/ > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

Helicoil is the way to go. I take a kit with me to the tech days for this reason. 6mm X 1mm pitch, the standard 6mm thread. I'd suggest the 9mm length, or 1.5 diameters - this is how they are usually described. The left side cam cover bolts go into the upper half of the cam bearing(s). If you get to a stopping (stuck) point, feel free to call. Much easier to use this method as opposed to using a different bolt, for several reasons. I also suggest stopping at 55 inch-lbs, never had one leak. No gasket goop, either. all the best, Mike Eagle

[Bob Schulte]

Thanks for the specifics Mike. I'll plan on that "mod" when I do my next valve adjustment. I'm having fun installing Nerf Bars now...pain in the a*# bolt locations on top, don't know why they chose Allen screw heads up there, a ratchet extension would fit a hex head perfectly, I don't own 8 " long Allen wrenches. Guess I'll stop by the hardware store tomorrow to pick up replacement hex head bolts for that farkle. Real nice stuff except for the top bolts. Capt. Bob Durham, CT USA 2006 KLR http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com/

----- Original Message ----- From: Mike To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 6:05 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Question RE: Valve Cover bolts --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Schulte" wrote: > > I have adjusted my valves and am putting the beast back together. The threaded socket which accepts the exhaust left side valve cover bolt is apparently stripped...the last service person in did it, not me...the three others are fine and I will torque to below specs. The valve cover bolt seems to be spinning with about 25in.lbs of torque. I am tempted to close her up and go with it as is, with the idea that next time in I will take appropriate action. > > Two questions: > 1) Can I get away with leaving it as is, what is the down side? > 2) What is the fix when I go back in next time? > > > ============================================================================================================= > Per Mark's FAQ's Valves: > "Once the valve cover is in place, you can thread in the four cover bolts finger tight. I would suggest tightening in an "X" pattern, as in the number 16 removal step. Once you're ready to torque the bolts, you should do so only about 1/4 turn per bolt, per time, to avoid "warping" the cover. The torque specification is: 7.8N-m / 0.80kg-m / 69INCH-lbs > =============================================================================================================== > Capt. Bob > Durham, CT USA > 2006 KLR > http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com/ > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Helicoil is the way to go. I take a kit with me to the tech days for this reason. 6mm X 1mm pitch, the standard 6mm thread. I'd suggest the 9mm length, or 1.5 diameters - this is how they are usually described. The left side cam cover bolts go into the upper half of the cam bearing(s). If you get to a stopping (stuck) point, feel free to call. Much easier to use this method as opposed to using a different bolt, for several reasons. I also suggest stopping at 55 inch-lbs, never had one leak. No gasket goop, either. all the best, Mike Eagle [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Believe you meant to say leak like a "Ford" Oversize would not work without having somebody make a custom bolt due to the weirdness of it is my guess. Helicoil would work, never used a timesert but believe its something like a helicoil (Dunno I own Chevy's, never had the issue.. ) Could prob. get by with just using alot of blue RTV on the cover and seal the bolt holes up with the same and not get a leak up that high with no pressure. (Kinda like that last Ford I owned) Wooooo now thats 3 hits to the Ford/Yugo product line in one message.. Dooden (With a Gold Bowtie) A15 Green Ape just kidding... relax folks.. damn cold anti riding weather making me cranky I suppose. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kerry Stottlemyer" wrote:

> > Drill it out and install a helicoil or "timesert" threaded insert. > Or if room allows just go one size bigger on the bolt. > I have not gotten around to adjuting the valves on my bike yet so > I'm not sure if there is enough material to go up a size in bolts. > 69inch pounds is only 5 foot lbs of torque not to much holding the > cover on worst case it will leak like a chevy. > Kerry >

Snippage

> ======================================== > > Per Mark's FAQ's Valves: > > "Once the valve cover is in place, you can thread in the four > cover bolts finger tight. I would suggest tightening in an "X" > pattern, as in the number 16 removal step. Once you're ready to > torque the bolts, you should do so only about 1/4 turn per bolt, per > time, to avoid "warping" the cover. The torque specification is: > 7.8N-m / 0.80kg-m / 69INCH-lbs >

[Don S]

Speaking of leaks, isn't Ford in cahoots with a motorcycle brand famous for leaking as well? Got to go....... Don S.... Who learned his lesson the hard way by owning two Ford pick up money pit, in the garage every month, oil leaking, non starting, hard on gas, out of alignment, brake failure, rust bucket gems..... Set the hook Dooden, set the hook! Dooden wrote: Believe you meant to say leak like a "Ford" Oversize would not work without having somebody make a custom bolt due to the weirdness of it is my guess. Helicoil would work, never used a timesert but believe its something like a helicoil (Dunno I own Chevy's, never had the issue.. ) Could prob. get by with just using alot of blue RTV on the cover and seal the bolt holes up with the same and not get a leak up that high with no pressure. (Kinda like that last Ford I owned) Wooooo now thats 3 hits to the Ford/Yugo product line in one message.. Dooden (With a Gold Bowtie) A15 Green Ape just kidding... relax folks.. damn cold anti riding weather making me cranky I suppose. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kerry Stottlemyer" wrote:

> > Drill it out and install a helicoil or "timesert" threaded insert. > Or if room allows just go one size bigger on the bolt. > I have not gotten around to adjuting the valves on my bike yet so > I'm not sure if there is enough material to go up a size in bolts. > 69inch pounds is only 5 foot lbs of torque not to much holding the > cover on worst case it will leak like a chevy. > Kerry >

Snippage

> ======================================== > > Per Mark's FAQ's Valves: > > "Once the valve cover is in place, you can thread in the four > cover bolts finger tight. I would suggest tightening in an "X" > pattern, as in the number 16 removal step. Once you're ready to > torque the bolts, you should do so only about 1/4 turn per bolt, per > time, to avoid "warping" the cover. The torque specification is: > 7.8N-m / 0.80kg-m / 69INCH-lbs >

--------------------------------- Looking for earth-friendly autos? Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[CA Stu]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Shane" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kerry Stottlemyer" > wrote: > > > > Ok here's the deal, and before anybody asks why I'll give you the > > answer. I can't leave anything alone. nothing stock, I'm always > > looking for someway to make something a little bit better(read

more

> HP > > more torque faster 0 to 60 what ever.) > > So anyway I'm kicking around a Dynojet kit or a whole new carb. > That's > > question one. Is the CVK carb that bad that if you realy want

some

> > umph you swap the whole carb or is it just set up like crab from > the > > get go. (I know they jet them lean from the factory) > > Then I'm thinking of adding a supertrap and opening up the air

box.

> > then I'll do the suspension. new springs cartrige emulators fork > brace > > Although I'll make the brace myself I don't like the shapes of

the

> > ones I've seen. > > So give me your opinions > > Kerry > > >

Have at it. You won't make much more peak horsepower, but you will change the powerband and make it a more rideable bike. I have a standing $50 bet that nobody can get more thsn 40 hp out of a KLR on a dyno with just intake and exhaust mods. It's only been out there since 1999, so maybe you're the one!!!!! There is no limit to the amount of cash you can spend on your KLR, have fun with it. Thanks CA Stu A13 A14